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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


1990 is different panels. The 93?-11 panels with manual locks and windows rarely had a storage pouch. Usually only doors with power windows got the little pocket.

I know they're different panels. I'll wager they'd fit the doors, though.
 
every day before work I stop by this park , great background and nice quiet place to have a snack before my shift starts, its only 1/2 mile from work and rarely is there anyone else there. Thought it would make for a good “current photo”.
My dynomat came today, wow is that a heavy box! still waiting on the vynil floor.
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I'd be tempted to throw a lure in that pond.
 
Received the EVTM for my '94 to try and trouble shoot the brake light being on dim and the RABS. now just need a few good days with low humidity to work on it.
 
every day before work I stop by this park , great background and nice quiet place to have a snack before my shift starts, its only 1/2 mile from work and rarely is there anyone else there. Thought it would make for a good “current photo”.
My dynomat came today, wow is that a heavy box! still waiting on the vynil floor.
View attachment 64705View attachment 64706
Where did you get that bull bar from? Ive been looking for one for mine.
 
Where did you get that bull bar from? Ive been looking for one for mine.

I bought that over 10 years ago from advance auto parts, its a warn trans4mer. Im guessing its obsolete now. I had it on my ‘93 4x4 , bought it in ‘03 so its most likely a 03 or 04. Kept it when the 93 was retired from service. loved that truck.
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I replaced the serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner on my 2003 Ranger 3.0L V6 - finally eliminated the annoying squeak from the belt! The job was harder than it should have been. I ordered the "Gates Complete" kit that had all three parts in a single box, but after starting the project I realized that my engine used a narrower bolt with an 8mm Hex head to retain the tensioner unit. The tensioner supplied with the Gates kit came with - and was designed for - a bigger bolt. Not wanting my tensioner to "move" around after install, I had to scour local car parts stores and buy the parts separately. Autozone had a tensioner designed for either size bolt - it included a sleeve to place around my narrow bolt to properly secure the tensioner. Also, it's hard to find an 8mm socket that's small enough to fit into the recess of the tensioner unit, but still strong enough to loosen the bolt without breaking first! But in the end I won ... truck is MUCH quieter now - squeaks no more.
 
I replaced the serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner on my 2003 Ranger 3.0L V6 - finally eliminated the annoying squeak from the belt! The job was harder than it should have been. I ordered the "Gates Complete" kit that had all three parts in a single box, but after starting the project I realized that my engine used a narrower bolt with an 8mm Hex head to retain the tensioner unit. The tensioner supplied with the Gates kit came with - and was designed for - a bigger bolt. Not wanting my tensioner to "move" around after install, I had to scour local car parts stores and buy the parts separately. Autozone had a tensioner designed for either size bolt - it included a sleeve to place around my narrow bolt to properly secure the tensioner. Also, it's hard to find an 8mm socket that's small enough to fit into the recess of the tensioner unit, but still strong enough to loosen the bolt without breaking first! But in the end I won ... truck is MUCH quieter now - squeaks no more.

I had a similar issue with the idler. Original one bolted right up to the block and there was a washer on the outside. I installed the new one the same way and it wouldn’t turn. I put the washer in the inside and is good enough. Still need to figure out what’s wrong.
 
In my case the idler pulley was installed with a large washer both in front, and in back of the pulley. Of course after I finished the job, I read a post elsewhere on the Internet stating that the washer in the back of the idler pulley (shown off the bolt in the picture below) is only used to keep the assembly together in the factory, and should be discarded when installing a replacement idler pulley.
64758


I think that might be correct because although my belt operates correctly and doesn’t make any noise, it does look like it runs very close to the rear of the idler pulley and that re-installing the idler w/o that rear washer would allow the belt be centered better on the idler. I think I’ll try to remove that rear washer this weekend. See photo below …
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I think I’ll try to remove that rear washer this weekend.
If it ain't broke, don't go fixing it. As long as the belt is fully supported, it's ok.
 
Ordered the ford service and repair manuals on CD because the EVTM doesn't have all the info I need to diagnose the RABS issue. Found the ground for the instrument brake light. Its located on the driver inner fender so I'm going to clean it up and see if that turns off the light. If not I'll pull the plug at the new switch on the master and get my inspection tomorrow. Darn thing is annoying being on dim all the time. Brake system is sealed and bled, a new switch on the parking brake, connector is clean and switch in the master works as its supposed to so I think its a ground issue.
 
If not I'll pull the plug at the new switch on the master and get my inspection tomorrow.
Not sure that will work. They will be looking to see all the warning lights work with first key turn.
 
Not sure that will work. They will be looking to see all the warning lights work with first key turn.
Unplugging the switch in the master turns off the light so it works in that aspect. I only have safety inspection so no need to pop the hood so they will never see it is unplugged with a side bonus that the light still comes on with the key. Cleaned the ground for the light but no change so there must be a short to ground somewhere. Inspection is done and good for another year.

EDIT: the light only comes on when the engine is running but dim.
 
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