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What did you do to your 2019 and up Ranger today?


Me and @sgtsandman were unsuccessful today in our first attempt to put a leveling kit on my truck.
Lessons learned:
The ball joint and tie rod end don't pop off with the tap of a hammer like the YouTube videos on a rustproofed 30,000 mile truck. Basically that's where we got stuck. Couldn't get the tie rod end off.
No one tells you about the two negative battery cables above the top strut bolts on the driver's side that keep you from reaching the bolts. The bolts screwing them into the frame don't want to come off.
On the top strut bolts a regular socket is too short and a deep wall is too tall. Not an insurmountable problem with a little bit of creativity.
Vastly easier and better to remove the sway bar bushing bolts instead of the end links on the knuckle.
Have the proper torque specs handy for putting things back together.
 
We may make a second try at my garage where all my tools are. I’m pretty sure I have everything we need to get the job done since I’ve done similar work in the past. Johnny’s option of course.
 
We may make a second try at my garage where all my tools are. I’m pretty sure I have everything we need to get the job done since I’ve done similar work in the past. Johnny’s option of course.
I'm leaning toward me and you trying it again. Might take us longer but I'm a little worried a shop would try to do it too quick and not torque things properly or put the right lift kit nuts in the right places. Might be a month or so until we can hook up though.
Guy on 5G who did his replied to my post and had much the same experience. He said the driver's side took 2.5 hours and the passenger side was much easier, about 45 minutes.
I made up for it by ordering another quart of Redline for the front axle.
 
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Me and @sgtsandman were unsuccessful today in our first attempt to put a leveling kit on my truck.
Lessons learned:
The ball joint and tie rod end don't pop off with the tap of a hammer like the YouTube videos on a rustproofed 30,000 mile truck. Basically that's where we got stuck. Couldn't get the tie rod end off.
No one tells you about the two negative battery cables above the top strut bolts on the driver's side that keep you from reaching the bolts. The bolts screwing them into the frame don't want to come off.
On the top strut bolts a regular socket is too short and a deep wall is too tall. Not an insurmountable problem with a little bit of creativity.
Vastly easier and better to remove the sway bar bushing bolts instead of the end links on the knuckle.
Have the proper torque specs handy for putting things back together.
20220509_144803.jpg

You need a socket set like this one. Do you have cast or aluminum spindles or whatever they are called that the tiered and sway bars attach. Mine are cast and had to tap pretty hard to break loose. Maybe tap ain't the word, beat the s#@+ out of it may be better haha. My buddy had aluminum and he soaked them with some lube the night before and they almost fell out he said. His had around d 19000 onit when he done his. Mine had like 1000 miles on it
 
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You need a socket set like this one. Do you have cast or aluminum spindles or whatever they are called that the tiered and sway bars attach. Mine are cast and had to tap pretty hard to break loose. Maybe tap ain't the word, beat the s#@+ out of it may be better haha. My buddy had aluminum and he soaked them with some lube the night before and they almost fell out he said. His had around d 19000 onit when he done his. Mine had like 1000 miles on it
Mine appear to be cast.
 
Changed the front axle lube. Used Redline 75w-90. The stream looked gold although mostly black in the pan. Some shavings on the drain plug but not as much as the rear.
3EBC8F44-676B-4A64-A6A6-86D9C3EEDD50.jpeg
06018FB1-6E2B-41C4-8335-BA4ED835CE77.jpeg
 
Mine appear to be cast.
Yeah I was worried about mine bit then my buddy that works at a body shop came over with a BFH and wapped it a few times pretty dag gum hard and it dropped down so I could pull it out.
 
Tried and failed in a second attempt to put a leveling kit on.
Screw it, I'm just gonna pay the alignment shop to do it.
 
Tried and failed in a second attempt to put a leveling kit on.
Screw it, I'm just gonna pay the alignment shop to do it.

Sometimes the ball joints and tie rod ends don't like to give in. My tool of choice is a three pound ball peen hammer. Usually one solid rap in the right spot... and they can't help but jump apart.

Is that what giving you issue?

How do they do it on the videos?
 
Sometimes the ball joints and tie rod ends don't like to give in. My tool of choice is a three pound ball peen hammer. Usually one solid rap in the right spot... and they can't help but jump apart.

Is that what giving you issue?

How do they do it on the videos?
Videos on YouTube show them popping apart with a few whacks from a hammer. It doesn't happen that easy though. I got a puller and got the ball joint and tie rod apart the second time but still couldn't get the strut out.
 
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Changed the dust catcher. 24k miles, Ford reccomends 30k.

This was MY first bit of maintenance done to the truck actually lol.

Apparently Motorcraft filters are becoming unobtanium.. many people reporting their dealer has no idea when they'll get more.

I rode the FOMO train to ebay after reading all that and snagged a Wix.

I think I like the Motorcraft filter better honestly. The orange bit that seals to the box is some sort of foam on the Wix filter, on the ford filter it almost feels like silicone or something.
 
I managed to install a Uniden off-road compact CB in a nice, hidden spot. Only problem is that the fuse I selected is non-switchable. So I need to move around the add-a-circuit until I find a switchable one.
 

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New shoes. Cooper AT3’s. Slightly larger 265/70-17.

View attachment 76661

Your gonna wish you went bigger once you get it leveled.

I figured 255/75s would be perfect, until I picked the truck up after the dealer leveled it and put the tires on.... 32s look small with a 2.5" kit. 33s would be more proportional imo.
 
Your gonna wish you went bigger once you get it leveled.

I figured 255/75s would be perfect, until I picked the truck up after the dealer leveled it and put the tires on.... 32s look small with a 2.5" kit. 33s would be more proportional imo.
I got a 1.5" Truxxx kit. It's already a tight fit in my garage. Can't really do any more. The very first mod I did was a Stubby radio antenna since the stocker was getting beat up on the garage door with stock height and tires.
 

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