What BRAND is the OEM Alternator on ye olde Vulcan? BOSCH? Hitachi? AC-Delco?

[fixizin]

After 21 years I think my alternator (or rather, the embedded Voltage Regulator) is overcharging my battery. It may be squeaking a bit too.

On my old Mazda B2000 4-banger, the alternators were Mitsubishi, and BAP/GEON had them cheap.

I doubt Ford or Mazda started making their own, so whose do they spec at the factory????

Thanks in advance, Duh Fix Izz In!

 

[franklin2]

99 ranger with a 3.0 had a 95 amp Ford 3G style alternator.

 

[19Walt93]

Motorcraft is the way to go, A/C Delco might be OK, Bosch is overpriced junk, and I don't have any experience with Hitachi alternators so I would stay away from them.

 

[fixizin]

If only Motorcraft used a little lube before they hit you with da PRICE... what about re-manufactured Motorcraft?

I see them offered, but I doubt they're re-man'd BY Motorcraft... yes/no?

 

[Dirtman]

On motorcraft's website they suggest that they are remanufactured by them. This assumes you are buying a reman directly FROM motorcraft, not a reman motorcraft from the parts store which is undoubtedly remanufactured by chinese children.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If only Motorcraft used a little lube before they hit you with da PRICE... what about re-manufactured Motorcraft?

I see them offered, but I doubt they're re-man'd BY Motorcraft... yes/no?

No. There motorcraft cases with cheap chinese guts shipped back over here anf sold at a premium.

Honestly ive had good luck with duralast shit.

 

[franklin2]

If price is concern, rockauto has about the cheapest I have seen for your model truck. I thought DB Electrical would be a good place to look but they only off a 200amp model for your truck and it's just over $300.

 

[Jazzer]

I bought Duralast rotors and they looked to be good quality and have held up well. I just bought a Duralast parking brake cable but it’s too new to know if it lasts, durably, I mean.

It’s an Autozone only brand, and no amount of googling tells me where they’re made. I’d avoid the brand if made in China, but the build quality seems good.

-Jazzer

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I bought Duralast rotors and they looked to be good quality and have held up well. I just bought a Duralast parking brake cable but it’s too new to know if it lasts, durably, I mean.

It’s an Autozone only brand, and no amount of googling tells me where they’re made. I’d avoid the brand if made in China, but the build quality seems good.

-Jazzer

Ive ran numerous duralast alternators over the years...never had an issue, their battries are decent to.

Avoid o'reiley at all costs unless you think changing the alt is fun.

 

[Dirtman]

Well to be fair, its kinda hard to screw up making a brake rotor. Electronics are a little more susceptible to being built poorly.

 

[8thTon]

I never know whether to spend for a name brand or just get the cheapest thing out there - too many times I bought the "good stuff" because I didn't want to do the job twice, but still got junk and had to do it again anyway. Other times I went cheap and the part was fine, worked well and lasted.

Well to be fair, its kinda hard to screw up making a brake rotor. Electronics are a little more susceptible to being built poorly.

Nonsense, metallurgy matters. You can precisely machine a lousy alloy but it won't last through the heat cycles or resist the surface pitting, etc.

 

[franklin2]

I never know whether to spend for a name brand or just get the cheapest thing out there - too many times I bought the "good stuff" because I didn't want to do the job twice, but still got junk and had to do it again anyway. Other times I went cheap and the part was fine, worked well and lasted.


Nonsense, metallurgy matters. You can precisely machine a lousy alloy but it won't last through the heat cycles or resist the surface pitting, etc.

I will confirm there are some lousy brake rotors out there. I am not sure if it's crappy metal they use, or possibly they are supposed to heat cycle the rotor after it's built and then true it up? Seems like some of them as soon as you get them hot they warp. Others don't.

 

[8thTon]

I will confirm there are some lousy brake rotors out there. I am not sure if it's crappy metal they use, or possibly they are supposed to heat cycle the rotor after it's built and then true it up? Seems like some of them as soon as you get them hot they warp. Others don't.

Surprisingly, most "warped" rotors actually aren't. Rather when you come to a stop clamping the hot pads on hot rotors, it transfers material from the pad to the surface of the rotor, forming dendrites in the the surface layer of iron - essentially a lump on the rotor surface. Dendrites are very hard and won't wear, and the rotor is never smooth after that. If you look at a rotor that has permanent black pad-shaped outlines on it that's often what you're seeing, although sometimes you can feel it and sometimes not.

Alloy composition seems to be very important to resisting this.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Surprisingly, most "warped" rotors actually aren't. Rather when you come to a stop clamping the hot pads on hot rotors, it transfers material from the pad to the surface of the rotor, forming dendrites in the the surface layer of iron - essentially a lump on the rotor surface. Dendrites are very hard and won't wear, and the rotor is never smooth after that. If you look at a rotor that has permanent black pad-shaped outlines on it that's often what you're seeing, although sometimes you can feel it and sometimes not.

Alloy composition seems to be very important to resisting this.

Thats why you should drive with bare brake pads for a while before changing, metal on metal will scrape that shit off.

 

[8thTon]

Thats why you should drive with bare brake pads for a while before changing, metal on metal will scrape that shit off.

Procrastination pays yet again!