Wet Clutch?

[Wes]

Can a clutch get wet?

Today I heard something that I think I heard once before... My clutch. When my clutch is engaged (pedal up) my truck sounds perfect no matter if I'm in neutral or any other gear. When the clutch is disengaged (pedal down) it makes a whining sound. I noticed it do this a few weeks ago when we had some good rain. Today we had some really good rain/wind and it's doing it again. Could it be a wet clutch? A bearing? Seems odd that it makes a noise when the clutch is disengaged, but not when it's engaged... Haven't noticed the truck wanting to move while stopped with the pedal down, so I'm sure it's disengaging all the way. Any experianced opinions/suggestions would be appreciated.

98 4x4 4.0 Manual 150K (bought at 115K so not sure if it's the original clutch or not, if so it's probably time)

 

[wanebell]

Wes,

Yes, a clutch can get wet, although it's not likely. A lot of things have to go wrong in just the right way to make it happen.

The noise you are hearing is probably the clutch release bearing, sometimes called a throw-out bearing. When you push in the clutch pedal, a hydrualic acutuator pushes this release bearing against the spring fingers of the pressure plate, unclamping the clutch disc from the engine flywheel. When this bearing wears out it will make a metallic ginding noise whenever the clutch pedal is pushed in, becoming quiet when the clutch pedal is released. Given the mileage on your truck, it's a pretty safe bet that the noises you are hearing are the final death rattles of your release bearing.

 

[Wes]

That makes perfect sinse. Thank you for explaining how the throw-out-bearing works. I have the Ford Service Manual on CD but it doesn't do a very good job of explaining anything. How long do you think I have before the tranny needs to be dropped. And what kind of damage will be incured if/when the bearing siezes. Not that I plan on putting it off or anything, but it's supposed to rain here for the next 10 days and although I can barrow a car I would rather not.

 

[Silverado]

I had a little pocket rocket once that would make bad clutch noises when it was raining. Calgary is normally SUPER dry.

It would match my experience that the high humidity would cause extra noises; as mentioned above, it's probably your throw out bearing.

You'd be amazed what humidity in the air will do to all kinds of things.

If the bearing seizes, your clutch will stop working, period. You won't be able to drive or start the truck.

 

[Wes]

So I guess now I have to decide on waiting a couple weeks to do it myself (let it sit and barrow a car) or just take it to a shop and get it done ($$$$$$$$$).

Any suggestions on good (better than stock) aftermarket clutch.

Also... What all to replace? Clutch, Slave Cylinder and Reman/Resurfaced Flywheel... Anything else?

 

[metalmacguyver]

its usually a good idea to do the master as well.

 

[michowski]

Also replace the throw out bearing, pilot bushing, pressure plate. I looked at summit and found this kit. Its a zoom clutch and comes with everything you need. Ive had my zoom for about 6 months now and I love it. Had it underwater, beaten on it pretty good and it still acts like I just put it on yesterday. Never once slipped. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...839915+4294925134+4294865886+115&autoview=sku

 

[brendank]

Don't change the master. It's a waste of money unless there's something wrong with it.

Pull the transmission and figure out what the problem is. It's generally a good idea to resurface or change the flywheel when replacing the clutch, although it's not entirely necessary to do so.

Usually, I take a clutch assembly apart and change what's wrong with it. No sense in spending extra cash, unless it's needed.

It's very common to change the pilot bearing(cheap), and slave, flywheel or pressure plate if necessary.

 

[Wes]

I probably will not change the master, just because it's so easily accessible and can be changed out later if it becomes a problem. However at 150K and given the amount of labor involved to get to it all I’ll probably replace everything else.

What about the rear main? Would it be a good idea to replace that?

 

[michowski]

leave the master, change the slave. Have the flywheel resurfaced. If your gonna go this far you might as well do it right. It only cost 5 bucks or so to do it. Replace the 2 bearings, slave cylinder, pressure plate. Everything in that kit I linked you to and have the flywheel resurfaced. Do that and you will be in awesome shape.

 

[Silverado]

There are non-high performance clutch kits available at most parts stores will all the required pieces as well, if you don't want to pony up for a HP unit. It really depends on how you drive, and how hard you are on the clutch.

 

[brendank]

I probably will not change the master, just because it's so easily accessible and can be changed out later if it becomes a problem. However at 150K and given the amount of labor involved to get to it all I’ll probably replace everything else.

What about the rear main? Would it be a good idea to replace that?

Is it leaking?

I look at it this way - I'm the kind of guy who changes what needs to be changed. If the rear main starts leaking 2 months after I change the clutch assembly, BFD. It takes me an evening to do a clutch and have everything back in.

If it makes you sleep better at night, then buy the rear main and change it.

 

[michowski]

I would change the rear main. Its only 10 bucks for the seal and might as well do it since your already there.

 

[Wes]

It might not be a BFD. I don't know yet though having never done his kind of work before. I think I'll take your suggestion on opening it up and taking a look fist though. Once I get to that point I'll know better whether I'll want to do it again or not. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[MAKG]

If you have never pulled a transmission before, it's going to take a while. I'd allow two weekends for the first time, one for the second. It takes a LOT longer on your back than with the vehicle suspended over your head on a lift and with a transmission jack designed for that.

This means, change everything inside the bellhousing. For an experienced mechanic, pulling the transmission again is little more than (very) annoying. For a first timer, it's going to have you putting ear protection on your kids due to the phrases you'll invent.

There is no need to change the master. The only step shared with a transmission R/R is separating the clutch line. The first time, you'll scratch your head and it will take a while, but once you figure it out, it will take you 30 seconds.