wat are some gas saving mods

[86freebie]

try it, it just anoys me when people are so closed minded that they wont try anything. minor hills and flat, yes it does work. i had improved my milage in my contour by about 3 mpg. "duaghter totaled that car"

it is a proven fact.

your turn bean, tell them all that unless they measure the grade with a laser level it wont work unless its 0.0 degrees. "or you are driving on a totally flat road" lol

Test #3 Use Cruise Control

Result: Surprisingly effective way to save gas

Cold Hard Facts: Up to 14-percent savings, average savings of 7 percent

Recommendation: If you've got it, use it.


Test #3 Use Cruise Control

Using cruise control is a bit of gas-saving advice frequently on tips lists. We have always agreed with this tip in theory but we hadn't expected such significant results. First, it smoothes out the driver's accelerator input by preventing nervous "surging." Second, it makes the driver take the long view of the road rather than reacting to every change in the traffic around them.

Method: We did this test twice with four different cars each time driving the 55-mile loop. The first time we set cruise control to 70 mph. The second time, with the cruise control off, we varied our speed between 65 mph and 75 mph. We tried to mimic the driving style of a person who is in moderate freeway traffic.

i think i already said this part.One thing that's important to note: if you are in a mountainous area you should turn off cruise. It will try to keep you up to the speed you've set and will use a lot of extra gas downshifting to lower gears to accomplish this.

 

[Beanmachine7000]

The factory airbox was restictive as hell.

So, you're saying the same airbox that is restrictive on your 2.5 is restrictive on my 4.0 that pulls in twice the air your truck does? I don't think so... Adding a K&N intake does nothing but make the air that's goin into your engine hotter...

I guess I should have clarified a little more... Cruise does save gas mileage for 90% of drivers IF they are driving on RELATIVELY flat ground... If you are going through a continuosly hilly area (ie, Middle TN) it will not increase gas mileage becuase it will not carry the speed from the downhill to the uphill... I consistently get better gas mileage when NOT using the cuise control...

 

[OilPatch197]

Install a vacuum gauge in the cab and keep the speed at max vacuum.

Install a Gas line cooler.

Install a Fuel Line Magnent.

Purchase a Turbonator at Autozone.

Install a Cab front top spoiler that mounts at the top of the cab/windsheild.

Remove your AC evaporator and remove power steering, install a manual steering gearbox.

3" suspension DROP.

 

[fastpakr]

Install a vacuum gauge in the cab and keep the speed at max vacuum.

3" suspension DROP.

With you so far...

Install a Gas line cooler.

Install a Fuel Line Magnent.

Purchase a Turbonator at Autozone.

Install a Cab front top spoiler that mounts at the top of the cab/windsheild.

Remove your AC evaporator and remove power steering, install a manual steering gearbox.

 

[OilPatch197]

fastpakr I forgot one, loose weight!

If Americans are Overweight, (and many are WAY overweight, we know who they are!) we all can make a difference by shedding lots of pounds and carpooling.


Here is another:

Don't use the drive thru at fast food joints, park and walk inside.


and finally: Sell your Ranger for a GEO metro.

 

[jgertsch]

So, you're saying the same airbox that is restrictive on your 2.5 is restrictive on my 4.0 that pulls in twice the air your truck does? I don't think so... Adding a K&N intake does nothing but make the air that's goin into your engine hotter...

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

The inlet to the air box was at most 1.5" in diameter with a stupid flange in front of it that blocked the opening a little. That combined with a square box with sharp bends & baffles means restrictive/turbulent air flow. The air box from the factor was designed to reduce noise more than anything (other than filtering air).

It's pulling air from directly behind the head light, the same as the factor box. There's a piece of steel between the filter & the engine compartment that keeps it from sucking hot air straight from the engine compartment. Not only that, but more air flow & higher air velocity means lower over all air temperatures at the throttle body. The engine runs quite a bit cooler than before it was installed.

 

[jgertsch]

Another thing that might increase fuel economy: Replace the mechanical cooling fan with an electrical one. It reduces the load on the engine and regulates the air temps better, among other advanges.

Also, turn off all unnecessary accessories.

 

[Beanmachine7000]

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

The inlet to the air box was at most 1.5" in diameter with a stupid flange in front of it that blocked the opening a little. That combined with a square box with sharp bends & baffles means restrictive/turbulent air flow. The air box from the factor was designed to reduce noise more than anything (other than filtering air).

It's pulling air from directly behind the head light, the same as the factor box. There's a piece of steel between the filter & the engine compartment that keeps it from sucking hot air straight from the engine compartment. Not only that, but more air flow & higher air velocity means lower over all air temperatures at the throttle body. The engine runs quite a bit cooler than before it was installed.

Haha... Ok... Whatever you say

Another thing that might increase fuel economy: Replace the mechanical cooling fan with an electrical one. It reduces the load on the engine and regulates the air temps better, among other advanges.

Also, turn off all unnecessary accessories.

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

 

[jgertsch]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient...

Maybe. I haven't personally done this, so I can't say either way from experience. I've just read that it can help.

 

[Beanmachine7000]

The only way an E-fan would use less vehicle power is if it ran off it's own battery that was charged every day at your house...

 

[Roger]

Raise your tire pressure a bit. Not enough to wear the tire down the middle. But a couple pounds does help a bit. The single biggest thing that you can do, is adjust the nut behind the wheel. I've been able to get 22MPG (combined) out of my 95 Grand Cherokee with 31s and 3" lift. But I am usually about 19-20 combined. A lot less if wheeling.) You don't have to be first everywhere you go. Plan your trip according to where you need to stop. Get off the gas sooner when coming to a stop. Not flooring it to get moving (though there is some debate over flooring it to get to speed and then backing off, or getting to speed slowly with little throttle...). I'm over at Ecomodder, they are a lot more toleratn (most of the time) for trucks and SUVs than CleanMPG. I got banned at CleanMPG for a while in only three posts. Make adjustments in your driving habits and you will see a change.

 

[OilPatch197]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

BUT the Efan ONLY is ON when it needs to be(usually in stop and go traffic) when you REALLY need a fan, at highway speeds, the mechanical fan will still DRAG causing an inefficiency(either pushing too much air at the fan, or not enough) Thus causing fan drag.

Electric fans also have other benefits, longer water pump life for example.

 

[graff104]

I have heard that underdrive pulleys can help some.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

When on yes that is true. However, my fan has yet to turn on at speeds above 30mph. If it is not on, its not drawing power.

That said one should also note that a properly working mechanical fan adjusts its tension based on engine heat, more heat more of a fixed "type" fan.

 

[jgertsch]

When on yes that is true. However, my fan has yet to turn on at speeds above 30mph. If it is not on, its not drawing power.

That said one should also note that a properly working mechanical fan adjusts its tension based on engine heat, more heat more of a fixed "type" fan.

Also, after market cooling fans tend to have more efficient props & generally have less mass than mechanical OEM ones.