Valve stem seals replacement

[SR185]

I've been replacing the valve seals, and I don't know how I'm going to be able to get the last two done on the passenger side. The problem is the a/c box is so close, I can't get my valve spring compressor tool positioned.

Any suggestions?

Also, for you mechanics, just curious as to how much a shop would charge for this job. It's been more difficult than I anticipated due to having to move the a/c compressor etc.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

When I did mine I marveled that I couldn't see how you could do it with without a 3" bodylift to slip the tool in there... and it was still tight. I started out with the pry tool, but went to the screw type one, it worked a lot better. Unless you take the cab off altogether I don't see how you can use the pry tool on #3 (the rear pass side)

You might have to remove the airbox to get it, which really isn't that hard. They get full of leaves and can rot out the firewall so it might not be a bad idea to do it anyway. I had mine out, cleaned and back in a morning... one screw is tough to get at. Now the thing can actually move some air.

Dunno what flat rate is on it, but figure anywhere between $50-150 an hour for a shop to do it.

 

[SR185]

no one knows what a shop would charge for replacing the valve stem seals?

 

[Big Jim M]

I don't know of a shop that would attempt a seal replacement with the head still on the block! All of them I know about would advise a complete VALVE JOB! Then they would send the head out to a machine shop and all the mechanic would do is R&R the head's.
Big JIm

 

[SR185]

I took mine to an independent mechanic to finish the valve stem seal job. Later, He got started and called me telling me it was a bigger pain in the arse than he anticipated. He said he was going to charge me $400 and he wasn't sure he could even do the valve seals for cylinder 3.

He called me again at the close of business yesterday and said he wasn't able to finish, and it was going to take him more time. He said he quoted me less than he should have.

I'm beginning to think this is an easier job with the heads removed.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

You just need the right tool. There are a hundred designs of valve spring compressors out there, one of them has to work well in a confined space like the 3rd cylinder on a 2.8 V6 in a Ranger.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I don't know of a shop that would attempt a seal replacement with the head still on the block! All of them I know about would advise a complete VALVE JOB! Then they would send the head out to a machine shop and all the mechanic would do is R&R the head's.
Big JIm

Why stop there and not go ahead and rebuild the whole engine?

Valve seal replacement is a common repair on a 2.8, it is common they need it before they get to the point of needing a valve job.

 

[enginepaul]

Go to e-bay and look for:
Valve Spring Compressor, Parallel Compression
Product Line: NAPA Service Tools Part Number: SER 2078
There is one available right now and you can also see what styles are available.

If a compression test was done, you would know if you also need a valve job.

I couldn't find a factory manual procedure for replacing the seals while on the car so I don't know about any special Ford Rotunda tools for the job.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

I couldn't find that ebay listing but I did some searching of my own.
This is one in particular that I was thinking of: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjK4S-_07v8

Another one was this type http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KD-9...otive_Tools&hash=item2309684d8c#ht_2097wt_732
But I think you are supposed to bolt that type to the rocker arm stud, which might not work on the 2.8.

 

[SR185]

I couldn't find that ebay listing but I did some searching of my own.
This is one in particular that I was thinking of: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjK4S-_07v8

Another one was this type http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KD-9...otive_Tools&hash=item2309684d8c#ht_2097wt_732
But I think you are supposed to bolt that type to the rocker arm stud, which might not work on the 2.8.

We tried the second one and it simply would not fit in the tight space where the a/c box is. We also tried two different "screw"types - they looked like a mini steering wheel puller - but they were too long. We even cut the knob off one of the screw types.

After doing this job (and not getting the #3 cylinder valves done), I think it would have been easier to pull the heads (if you have a car with air conditioning). Or, the other option is to remove the airbox (something I've never done, so I don't know how involved it is).

But, if you are going to have to pay someone to do this job, I think you would best be served with getting a complete head job done all at the same time, as I don't think the cost is going to be much different.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I pulled the airbox for a unrelated issue, it was surprisinly easy and isn't a bad thing to do anyway. Mine was full of leaves and was restricting airflow... and if left unchecked can rot out your firewall.