Vacuum Resevoir | EEC Codes | Fuel Smell

[Mhfco6]

I noticed a broken vacuum line at the vacuum resevoir, not sure what symptoms I would be experiencing.. can anyone help? I also pulled 2 codes because my check engine light has been intermittent mainly in the morning after a cold start. The 2 codes are EGR valve opening not detected, and ECT out of self test range. For some reason or another I have been smelling fuel. I haven't dug too far into the smell yet. I have got under the truck and eliminated any hard line leaks or fuel filter. I haven't put eyes on areas around the injectors, but the smell seems to be coming from between the cab and bed. Fuel pump was replaced a year ago.

 

[Mark_88]

It sounds like you might have more than one issue...which is actually common on older vehicles.

First thing would be to repair or replace the vacuum line but I'd imagine that has been done by now. That alone would give you error codes, performance issues, and likely high idle or won't run for longer than a few minutes.

The fuel smell between the box and cab might be a number of things so it's probably best to do a more thorough visual check in that area...put the truck up on ramps if you havev them...or consider removing the box if you can't see anything obvious...dropping the tank is another way to check but both involve possible extra work and small part replacement like bolts, C-clips or tank straps...that are not cheap from my last experience with them.

The EGR is vacuum operated so with a vacuum leak that can be expected...so clear the codes if you have a scanner or just unplug the battery for about 30 minutes after you fix the vacuum line mentioned above and then reconnect it to see if the code comes back.

 

[Mhfco6]

It sounds like you might have more than one issue...which is actually common on older vehicles.

First thing would be to repair or replace the vacuum line but I'd imagine that has been done by now. That alone would give you error codes, performance issues, and likely high idle or won't run for longer than a few minutes.

The fuel smell between the box and cab might be a number of things so it's probably best to do a more thorough visual check in that area...put the truck up on ramps if you havev them...or consider removing the box if you can't see anything obvious...dropping the tank is another way to check but both involve possible extra work and small part replacement like bolts, C-clips or tank straps...that are not cheap from my last experience with them.

The EGR is vacuum operated so with a vacuum leak that can be expected...so clear the codes if you have a scanner or just unplug the battery for about 30 minutes after you fix the vacuum line mentioned above and then reconnect it to see if the code comes back.

I haven't fixed the vacuum line yet. Truck seems to run fine, other than when I pull my trailer I'm running between gears every 2 minutes. I took the bed off when I replaced the fuel pump, everything looked decent. The 2 codes I have are newer. The last code I had was for 02 sensor and that has already been replaced.

 

[Mark_88]

OK...

Quite often when reading something on here there is more left out than actually said...my approach to this is to give as little as needed and let the poster reply to fill in the blanks...and now that you have done that I would have to ask...

Are you sure it is a vacuum line that is broken and did you trace it to both ends to find out what it is used for?

"Broken" is a pretty general term...it could still function to some degree but will still allow too much oxygen in past the MAF sensor resulting in an O2 sensor error...so it should be fixed properly before actually moving beyond that as a possible source of the problems.

 

[tomw]

If I saw what I think I saw, I'd get a length of vacuum line and connect the hard-plastic lines together using the rubber line as a 'union'. Get some line that will squeeze onto the hard plastic, and it will stay and do the job fine.
Leaking vacuum from the reservoir, depending on where the check valve is located, can cause the EGR to fail as it uses vacuum to open the valve. On most. Leaking reservoir may reduce the vacuum to the diaphragm is too weak to pull the valve open.
I'd think about pulling the bed bolts, and tilting the bed up on some 2X4's or boxes, and checking the filler neck for damage. Once the bed was removed, the filler neck may have flexed too much, or gotten damaged and is not venting fumes. They can get pretty brittle with age, and not like being disturbed.
I had the fuel line shatter when I replace the sender and I let it slip and it dropped about 3-4 inches. Dealer was unhelpful, and told me I had to buy the complete fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail. No pieces. I was surprised it literally broke into a dozen pieces from such a slight drop, and doubly surprised I could not buy the 12" section from sending unit/pump to the fuel filter inlet.
Any way, I'd look carefully at the filler, and also the plastic tubes that are used to capture and carry vapors to the under hood charcoal canister.
tom

 

[Mhfco6]

If I saw what I think I saw, I'd get a length of vacuum line and connect the hard-plastic lines together using the rubber line as a 'union'. Get some line that will squeeze onto the hard plastic, and it will stay and do the job fine.
Leaking vacuum from the reservoir, depending on where the check valve is located, can cause the EGR to fail as it uses vacuum to open the valve. On most. Leaking reservoir may reduce the vacuum to the diaphragm is too weak to pull the valve open.
I'd think about pulling the bed bolts, and tilting the bed up on some 2X4's or boxes, and checking the filler neck for damage. Once the bed was removed, the filler neck may have flexed too much, or gotten damaged and is not venting fumes. They can get pretty brittle with age, and not like being disturbed.
I had the fuel line shatter when I replace the sender and I let it slip and it dropped about 3-4 inches. Dealer was unhelpful, and told me I had to buy the complete fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail. No pieces. I was surprised it literally broke into a dozen pieces from such a slight drop, and doubly surprised I could not buy the 12" section from sending unit/pump to the fuel filter inlet.
Any way, I'd look carefully at the filler, and also the plastic tubes that are used to capture and carry vapors to the under hood charcoal canister.
tom

I will couple the hard plastic vacuum line and see what happens. When I replaced my sending unit/fuel pump assembly last year I inspected the filler neck. It had a bigger outer rubber protective tube. I also wrapped the entire outer tube from top to bottom in electrical tape.