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Utah peeps!!!


you know it just dawned on me that 2700 w and 4200 s. is a stone's throw away from hires.....in fact i bet if you stood on top of your house you could look south and see it

Wow! You could walk over and get a chocolate coke.:headbang:
 
Bronco would not pass inspection. The bumper is not wide enough.

You have up to three inches between frame and body. 24" between frame and ground
Any tire sticking out of fenders will need flares. Bumpers need to be as wide as stock.

I just need to make a couple of quick cheap brackets and stick the stock bumper back on. PIA, but not a big deal
 
Holy crap, that's right down from my Grandma's house. I'll hav to drive by on my way home tonight.

I heard there were some fireworks close to your house last night. I heard some guy slit his throat out on his porch somewhere around 3100 and 9100. I guess it's something to do with the Grantsville kidnapping.

Did you see this? More fun in the Magna.

http://www.sltrib.com/sltrib/home/51012073-76/jeep-police-magna-struck.html.csp

This one isn't in Magna, but this pisses me off to see a school bus driver getting a DUI while driving the bus.

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=14002057
 
yep magna is an a-class place to live i guess
 
yep magna is an a-class place to live i guess

Yeah, we look like we deserve the police fee lately. Apparently we have an overwhelming number of people in Magna who can't look both ways before crossing.
 
so i took my rig to transmasters to diagnose why the F--k my clutch won't fully disengage, new disc, new pressure plate, new throwout bearing, new clutch fork, new tranny snout (the part the throw-out bearing slides on) new master cylinder, new slave cylinder, new master cylinder rod, re-surfaced flywheel.........and it still will not disengage enough to put it in gear if it is running in neutral. and if i start it in gear with the clutch in it takes off

transmasters said "we'll diagnose it for $80", they close at 1:00 on saturdays, i brought it to them yesterday. he called me at 12:45 and said "no charge, we can't figure it out. everything is new in there and properly installed, the clutch fingers are even being depressed far enough.....i would have to pull the tranny out and start measuring everything"

but after doing all of that and buying all of those parts i don't have the $350 to have them do it
 
Just my .02 cents worth. Is the throwout bearing moving smoothly on the shaft?
Is the clutch fork bent, or the wrong one? Fingers on the the pressure plate not getting pushed in far enough. These are the things I have come across myself.
Get the wife to push in the clutch while you are underneath watching what happens.
I know you have probably done all of this, but I don't know what else to tell you.
Good luck
Sean
 
the fork is new (looked the same), the trans snout is new and the t/o bearing is sliding freely, the shop stuck a fiber optic camera up in there and can see the fingers being depressed (just not fully). the fork is moving all the way, it has about 1-2mm before the fork it digging into the bellhousing, if one guy presses on the clutch, and another uses a pry-bar to move the fork that extra couple milimeters it still only disengages enough that a prybar on the u-joints of the driveshaft barely starts to twist

the shop said it could be:
1) new clutch disc is too thick
2) new pressure plate is not machined enough for disc
3) the pressure plate bolts are extremely overtight (i did them by hand though)
4) the clutch fork pivot ball is worn just enough
5) the flywheel has been re-surfaced so many times that when mounted the entire pressure plate is 1/16" or so too far away from the fork
6) the new clutch fork is just poorly manufactured enough to change the geometry that 1/16" that is the problem
7) the splines on the input shaft have enough of a 'step' worn on them that the disc can't move that 1/16" needed to disengage (there was a little step on it, but nothing worse than i have seen work fine before)

i just don't want to be out in the cold and snow pulling this trans in and out 5 times deducing what the problem is. (it took me a weekend to do it once) not to mention trying different parts will just keep costing me $$$ $80 for a new flywheel here.....$50 for a different clutch fork there. none of which can be returned once they have been installed and tested
 
dose this thing have a hydraulic clutch or is it mechanical?

ok, i read it again. hyd duh... there has to be air in the line. air will compress where as the fluid wont. it will allow your clutch to partially disengage but not all the way..... i have been down this road before. did you bench bleed the master, and slave?

just a thought
 
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ok, i read it again. hyd duh... there has to be air in the line. air will compress where as the fluid wont. it will allow your clutch to partially disengage but not all the way..... i have been down this road before. did you bench bleed the master, and slave?

just a thought

thanks but:
the fork is moving all the way, it has about 1-2mm before the fork is digging into the bellhousing, if one guy presses on the clutch, and another uses a pry-bar to move the fork that extra couple milimeters it still only disengages enough that a prybar on the u-joints of the driveshaft barely starts to twist

and at the point the fork all the way, and digging into the bellhousing it takes a lot of effort to turn the driveshaft with a prybar even still. and as far as the fork is being pushed is about 1/4" further than is normally full throw

its not a bleeding issue, and i wouldn't have brought it to a shop over such a simple issue. if i can't figure it out odds are most mecahincs can't......case in point
 
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yeah i read it, at least it wasn't in magna
 

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