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- Joined
- Mar 23, 2008
- Messages
- 1,107
- Age
- 61
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Transmission
- Automatic
Well, after many failed tries I finally got the 130amp unit to work without blowing a fuseable link. On my 94 4.0 the OE unit is a 95amp. After putting the 130amp on it worked for a while then started blowing the fuseable link. After many replacements and suggestions from posters here I found the solution and it cost less than $20.
The battery post on the back of the alternator is the only circuit on the fuseable link going to the starter relay on the fender. You bypass this totally. Get (2) 24 inch battery cables with lugs on both sides. Get (1) 175amp mega fuse (Buss part # AMG175), (2) 5/16 half inch long with 2 nuts and heat shrink tube from a hardware store that will cover the fuse, cable ends & bolts (Ace Hardware's heat shrink # HST-750 3/4 inch).
Step 1. Disconnect battery!
Step 2. Take the original lug ring off the alternator's charging post and lug ring off the starter relay.
Step 3. Tape up both lug ring ends then push them out of the way. You might as well keep them if you ever want to change back to the original set up. Since they are disconnected it won't hurt anything.
Step 4. Trim the red plastic ring from around the battery post on the alternator and connect 1 battery cable to the post and tighten. Run the cable along the route the OE harness goes.
Step5. Attach the 175amp mega fuse to that cable with the 5/16 bolt and nut. Take the heat shrink tubing (I used both pieces in the package) and slide them onto the second battery cable you'll be using.
Step 6. Attach the second cable to the 175amp mega fuse with the 5/16 bolt.
Step 7. Attach the second battery cable to the starter solenoid (make sure you removed to OE fuseable link lug off).
Step 8. Take a heat source (lighter, hair dryer etc..) and shrink the heat shrink completely surrounding the fuse / bolts / lugs to protect it from grounding.
Step 9. Re-connect battery.
I ran the truck with lights, ac and stereo in the driveway for 30 minutes. The new setup didn't get hot at all and the gauge stayed on the o and r in NORMAL the entire time.
The reason for this change is a 130amp unit requires at least a 6 gauge wire and 175amp fuse. The OE 10 gauge fuseable link can't handle the power. You can buy pre-made cables but most want you to connect straight to the positive on the battery. I prefer to have the OE starter relay as a fail safe.
Course you WILL have to have a larger belt to run a 130amp unit because of the larger case. My belt was 1 inch larger but it may be different on your truck.
Now I can throw all the electrical goodies on my Ranger without worrying about POWER!!!!
The battery post on the back of the alternator is the only circuit on the fuseable link going to the starter relay on the fender. You bypass this totally. Get (2) 24 inch battery cables with lugs on both sides. Get (1) 175amp mega fuse (Buss part # AMG175), (2) 5/16 half inch long with 2 nuts and heat shrink tube from a hardware store that will cover the fuse, cable ends & bolts (Ace Hardware's heat shrink # HST-750 3/4 inch).
Step 1. Disconnect battery!
Step 2. Take the original lug ring off the alternator's charging post and lug ring off the starter relay.
Step 3. Tape up both lug ring ends then push them out of the way. You might as well keep them if you ever want to change back to the original set up. Since they are disconnected it won't hurt anything.
Step 4. Trim the red plastic ring from around the battery post on the alternator and connect 1 battery cable to the post and tighten. Run the cable along the route the OE harness goes.
Step5. Attach the 175amp mega fuse to that cable with the 5/16 bolt and nut. Take the heat shrink tubing (I used both pieces in the package) and slide them onto the second battery cable you'll be using.
Step 6. Attach the second cable to the 175amp mega fuse with the 5/16 bolt.
Step 7. Attach the second battery cable to the starter solenoid (make sure you removed to OE fuseable link lug off).
Step 8. Take a heat source (lighter, hair dryer etc..) and shrink the heat shrink completely surrounding the fuse / bolts / lugs to protect it from grounding.
Step 9. Re-connect battery.
I ran the truck with lights, ac and stereo in the driveway for 30 minutes. The new setup didn't get hot at all and the gauge stayed on the o and r in NORMAL the entire time.
The reason for this change is a 130amp unit requires at least a 6 gauge wire and 175amp fuse. The OE 10 gauge fuseable link can't handle the power. You can buy pre-made cables but most want you to connect straight to the positive on the battery. I prefer to have the OE starter relay as a fail safe.
Course you WILL have to have a larger belt to run a 130amp unit because of the larger case. My belt was 1 inch larger but it may be different on your truck.
Now I can throw all the electrical goodies on my Ranger without worrying about POWER!!!!
