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update on my v8 swap


ok.. here is what i cut out when i was pulling the 2.8...i unpluged every conector on the drivers side..i did not cut any wires from that side so i have every female conector there.. now as i was unpluging wires i worked my way to the passenger side and i did cut and unpluged wires from the carb.. now when i got to the passenger side i unpluged several pluges that where pluged to the conctors that where mounted to the pass. fenger..now after they where unpluged ,i seen a thick rol of wires that came from the pass. side and ran down under the heater fan and heater core towards the pass side door, i did cut all of those wires so i could remove the intirer wireing harnes...did i screw up...every wire that was cut , i left plenty just incase i needed them but im thinking that the wires i cut where leading to the computer under the pass. side dash..no wires where cut from the driver side..
 
the dizzy has a 3 wire plug .. i got a coil from a 82 f150.. im using after market oil. temp, and voits gauges..i also have the ignition module like the one in the tech pages and the pig tail that goes from dizzy to the module
 
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the dizzy has a 3 wire plug .. i got a coil from a 82 f150.. im using after market oil. temp, and voits gauges..i also have the ignition module like the one in the tech pages and the pig tail that goes from dizzy to the module
cool from the 8 wire connector going around the engine there are only about 6 wires you will need if your new alternator has the internal regulator it is a little more difficult but with a external regulator you can use the exisiting wires. So from the 8 wire rectangular connector strip the shielding and tape off the wires there are two sending wires for oil and water two wires for the alternator to regulator the coil wires pos and neg and i believe you only need to cut one or two wires to separate the rest of the computer stuff use one of the hot wires for the coil and the other hot for the red on the module and just splice the green from the module to the neg on the coil. Another easy way to get the start wire for the module is just run a separate wire from the start solenoid (small wire) back to the white wire on the module. You can just use the stock coil and stock motorcraft/autolite platinum plugs. To find out what sender wire does what turn the key on and ground the wires with the 90 degree connector single wire and see which guage works. 95% of the computer wires go away.
 
pics

here are some pics of the engine and the a/c box mod i had to do on my ranger..i used a non a/c box and riveted it together...i still need to seal it up a little better and clean it up..looks kinda ruff in the pics but it turned out better than i thought it would
 

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i got my new hurst shifter hooked up today and turns out i might need to get me a carpet.. my 2.8 tranny was a 5 speed and had a big hole in the carpet that my new shifter wont cover..still need to hook my dizzy wires and ignition wires up and im going to rebuild the carb so looks like it might be a few days before i get it running..
 

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