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Unbolting transmission on 4.0 SOHC


01WHTRNGR

Well-Known Member
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Mar 31, 2023
Messages
130
City
South Dakota
Vehicle Year
2001
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
I’m looking for any advice on unbolting the transmission. I can’t get any of the tpop half of bolts. Can’t even really get a socket on them
 
Go from underneath with several extensions and a swivel. Put on a headlamp and you should be able to look right up the same angle as the bellhousing at them.

I think I've got them from the top with multiple swivels, but much easier from below.
 
Go from underneath with several extensions and a swivel. Put on a headlamp and you should be able to look right up the same angle as the bellhousing at them.

I think I've got them from the top with multiple swivels, but much easier from below.
Ok, I’ve tried from the top and wheel wells, I’ll try bottom when I get back out. Taking a breather right now
 
I have all 4 bottom bolts lose now. No progress on top half still
 
I’ve laid on top of the engine and done the top ones by feel with a wrench, it sucks. The other methods are to take the trans crossmember down and tilt the engine/trans down to get at it or pull the carpet back from under the dash, there’s a plate bolted to the trans tunnel under the carpet that will give you access
 
I’ve laid on top of the engine and done the top ones by feel with a wrench, it sucks. The other methods are to take the trans crossmember down and tilt the engine/trans down to get at it or pull the carpet back from under the dash, there’s a plate bolted to the trans tunnel under the carpet that will give you access
I’ll give the wrenches a go. I’ve been sticking with sockets because I can get more leverage I feel like. I really don’t want to tear apart my interior right now. Is I take sort my interior, can I easily get to those 4 bolts?
 
Last edited:
try a 2 foot extension going back over the transmission, that puts the breaker bar at the rear of the tranny.
will probably still need a flex socket or universal.
this works on a 3.0, I never tried it on a 4.0 and yes, I know the 2 top bolts are positioned different between those engines.
 
Picked up an impact to help. Haven’t been able to get it done by hand with all the extensions I’m using
 
I feel like impacting through multiple extensions often soaks up or bounces back all the force before it reaches the fastener, but maybe my long extensions are just all kinds of hogged out.
 
I feel like impacting through multiple extensions often soaks up or bounces back all the force before it reaches the fastener, but maybe my long extensions are just all kinds of hogged out.
I’m hitting the pawn shop in the morning and seeing what they have for extensions. The longest I have is 9”, so that’s not ideal
 
I do what avid and pjtoledo said: drop the rear of the trans, then go socket, universal, biggest extensions I have the whole length of the trans, cheater pipe. If it won't pop, jack the truck up so you have more room to swing the pipe.

I got curious and looked it up, and these guys have a 15" 1/2" drive impact extension soaking up 304 ft/lb of torque. The M5R1 is 29" long, so even a super-conservative estimate says that much extension should cancel out 5-600 ft/lb.

A big impact might be able to tolerate that, but my first box store gun was only rated for 2-300.
 
I have a set of Harbor Freight long handle wrenches to give me extra leverage. I also have a like 20-25” long 1/2” drive extension for getting in places, I’ll use it with my extendable handle 3/4” drive ratchet when I need reach.

I’ve also found that those pass-through ratchets are shorter than a regular ratchet and socket so that helps in confined locations too.

Also, you don’t have to remove much to peel the flooring back. It helps to have the seat out of the way, but really you just have to remove the kick panels and the door sill trim and roll the flooring up onto the seat to get to the pan on the trans hump
 
I have a set of Harbor Freight long handle wrenches to give me extra leverage. I also have a like 20-25” long 1/2” drive extension for getting in places, I’ll use it with my extendable handle 3/4” drive ratchet when I need reach.

I’ve also found that those pass-through ratchets are shorter than a regular ratchet and socket so that helps in confined locations too.

Also, you don’t have to remove much to peel the flooring back. It helps to have the seat out of the way, but really you just have to remove the kick panels and the door sill trim and roll the flooring up onto the seat to get to the pan on the trans hump
So no seat removal? I’ve done that enough times to know I don’t enjoy it
 
So no seat removal? I’ve done that enough times to know I don’t enjoy it
Pretty sure it can be done without removing the seats. Without a garage, I don’t like removing anything I don’t have to. Probably have to slide the seats as far back as they go though
 

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