Two quick rear brake questions

[marc11]

First, I know this is relative to towing and hauling, but in general, what sort of mileage are some of you seeing from the rear brakes? My truck as 70k and I have no idea if the rears have ever been replaced. I purchased it used last fall and it had new pads up front. I was able to pull the rotor on one side back a bit and it looks like the top of the shoe has maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch and the bottom of the shoe a solid 3/8 of an inch thickness.

Second, I wanted to inspect my brakes but couldn't get into adjust the star wheel, where can I get the tool for this?

Thanks!

 

[Bryan22]

pull the wheel off and the drum should slide right off, just make sure the park brake isn't set . I've had shoes on my rangers go over 100 thousand miles, but i assume they weren't in adjustment. with how light the rear is they last a long long time. front end probably does 80% of the stopping. it's really easy to adjust the brakes with the drum off to, i'd rather do it that way then mess around with a screwdriver throught that little inspection hole. just make sure you don't go too tight when adjusting them.

 

[marc11]

I couldn't get the drum off, I was able to get it moved a few inches but that was it, even hitting it with a hammar didn't help. That is why I thought I needed to adjust them shoes.

 

[Mark_88]

Fords are notorious for the back drums sticking...use a bigger hammer...and don't be afraid to hit the drum hard...if anything, you might break the drum...they're relatively inexpensive but can take quite a pounding...I know...from experience...

If you want to try backing the brakes off first, use an adjustment tool if you have one, or two slot head screwdrivers to release the star adjuster and one to turn it...can't remember if they go clock-wise or counter-clock-wise...haven't done mine for a while...

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Sounds like the shoes are hanging up on a rust lip on the drum. You will need to back off the adjusters to get the drums ovee the shoes in that case.

 

[marc11]

OKay I will try a bigger hammar. I couldn't see squat inside that adjustment hole to get a driver in there to move the wheel.

 

[Mark_88]

Do the drums turn at all? If they don't turn (barring friction from the other wheel being on the ground) then the shoes are expanded and that may be your best option...but if they do turn then they are rusted and that requires the BFH...

 

[marc11]

Do the drums turn at all? If they don't turn (barring friction from the other wheel being on the ground) then the shoes are expanded and that may be your best option...but if they do turn then they are rusted and that requires the BFH...

Yeah they turn, I am going to pick up some shoes and just beat the crap out of it with a 5 pound mini sledge. That should do it.

Thank you for the drum brakes on a 21st century truck Ford....

 

[Mark_88]

I think I used a 20 lb sledge on my Tempo and it took two of us taking turns whacking at it to break it free...

This is an excellent reason for using high-heat rust paint on the insides of the drum that sits on the axle...and using brake grease on it as well...but I'm sure with persistence you will prevail...doesn't hurt to give the outer edge of the drum a few inward whacks either...just don't get too close to the back edge and don't hit that part too hard unless you intend to change the drums...

 

[marc11]

I finally got them off, hold mother of all things stuck. Took me almost an hour to get one off and it eventually cracked. The pads were frozen to the drum or something, I was pulling the pads and springs with the drum. The other side, came right off after I retracted the pads, but the corrosion inside that side was like nothing I have ever seen before. The shoes actually had a lot of life on them, but were glazed and massive rust.

Anyway, new shoes, new drums and new springs inside. Should be good for a while.

 

[Mark_88]

Excellent...

Last time I did mine I put the Aerostar Drums on and coated them with the high heat brake paint...did the backing plates inside and out also...and used the brake grease on contact parts (around the shoes)...since I haven't actually driven this Ranger on the road yet I have no idea how they will hold up or if that added work will make things any easier...

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I always use never seize when I assemble drum brakes.

 

[marc11]

Anit-seize was used this time

 

[JohnPi]

I have over 250k on my truck, and I'm on the second set of shoes, and the original drums. This may be partially due to the fact that I'm pretty sure I went about 50-80k without the rear drums working at all (seized adjusters). In fact, I tried to get them replaced this past summer, but when I took it to my father-in-laws shop to have it done, he said I had plenty of life left on them, and refused to let me replace them. All I did was get the drum machined and the adjusters lubed.

 

[marc11]

I am betting I have a ton of life left in my drums and shoes too, but since I had to beat the hell out of the drum to get it off for an inspection, which caused it to crack, well, then for $100 it was worth just putting new shoes, drums and springs on both sides. Pretty much, I will not even look at the rear brakes for the next 100k. (if this truck doesn't rust into bits by then)