I went under the truck and the only wire i could find hanging down was the wire for the speedo thing that goes into the transfer case. Where does the NSS wire lead back to? I hope the previous owner didn't ghetto rig something.
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Twister 85 B2 Build
- Thread starter Twister
- Start date
I went under the truck and the only wire i could find hanging down was the wire for the speedo thing that goes into the transfer case. Where does the NSS wire lead back to? I hope the previous owner didn't ghetto rig something.
85_Ranger4x4
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This is on the drivers side engine bay, the brake lines for the master are in the upper left for referance. The black one is in the corner of connecter like it looks like it might be. The red/white wire is part of the harness going towards the firewall and does not come out of the connector assembly the black wire comes out of. I wouldn't swear this is an '85 harness so your results may vary, it seems it was a mix and match special before I got it and muddied the waters further.
I made the mistake I think you did, I didn't mark it because it was under the truck (and thought it would stay there) but when the engine/trans was pulled it hung straight down from the center of the firewall. Then when I realized my goof I had to go back through with a testlight and find which one was hot with the key and which one would make the ignition hot when the two were connected.
Unmarked wires = feedback carb crap right?
Here is what I started with (you can see the harness hanging down by the radius arm crossmember):
All cleaned up:
I made the mistake I think you did, I didn't mark it because it was under the truck (and thought it would stay there) but when the engine/trans was pulled it hung straight down from the center of the firewall. Then when I realized my goof I had to go back through with a testlight and find which one was hot with the key and which one would make the ignition hot when the two were connected.
Unmarked wires = feedback carb crap right?
Here is what I started with (you can see the harness hanging down by the radius arm crossmember):
All cleaned up:
Last edited:
Went and looked really quick. This is the only red wire with white stripe I found in my quick search. It goes towords the firewall but has no plug on the other side.
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Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
85_Ranger4x4
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You might just run the ignition wire to the battery with a toggle switch so you could kill it if it does work and see if that improves anything. If it does find a source of keyed power and go.
Brother wanted to poke at my truck for some reason. So we tested for spark from coil and dizzy. Got nothing from both. So we did an ohm test between the blades of the coil, we got 5 ohms which was way over what I could find as standard. But ohms between one blade and the coil post was within range from what I could find. So I decided to throw the coil on my 87, and got nothing, put the other coil back on and it fired right up. So I am going to replace the coil and go from there.
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Lets hope that's the problem.
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What ever is recommended for racing...
I guess that last word is what my phone wants but its what ever is recommended for the engine.
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I guess that last word is what my phone wants but its what ever is recommended for the engine.
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85_Ranger4x4
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The first start is always exciting. 
How did it sound?
How did it sound?
The first start is always exciting.
How did it sound?
Story of my life. Bought a nice msd coil, thought why not, got 5 stars on advances site vs the store brand which got a 1 star. Got home, threw it on my running truck and it won't start. Pretty sure the coils DOA, haven't had time to take it back as I've been busy this weekend.
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MSD coils and products are nice. But without a great set of plug wires, plugs, etc...it won't do much better.
Hopefully they will take it back since its an electrical item that you have tested.
When I went from cheap 8mm wires to the Ford racing 9mm ones, I could tell an immediate difference in performance and how well it ran and idled. But even wrapping my headers to help protect them, the heat is trying to melt these because they contact them in a few places so next I'm going to have to wrap the wires in those locations. I may have got the wires for free (did I get lucky) but I'm not going to pay almost $50 for a new set so soon.
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Hopefully they will take it back since its an electrical item that you have tested.
When I went from cheap 8mm wires to the Ford racing 9mm ones, I could tell an immediate difference in performance and how well it ran and idled. But even wrapping my headers to help protect them, the heat is trying to melt these because they contact them in a few places so next I'm going to have to wrap the wires in those locations. I may have got the wires for free (did I get lucky) but I'm not going to pay almost $50 for a new set so soon.
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I only bought the msd one because it got better reviews and was only like $5 more than the store brand one with a discount code.
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Take it back and grab another soon. That engine needs to breathe life to get this project finished and it back on the road again.
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Get out your DMM, and get MSD on the phone. They will tell you exactly how to test the coil, and what ohm readings you should have.
Diagnose it, and quit throwing parts at it.
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I'm hardly throwing parts at it, only parts I've swapped out are common tune up parts (plugs, wires, cap and rotor). Seeing as how the new coil won't start a truck that was running before the coil was put on it, there's obviously something wrong with it, but calling msd and figuring out how to test it couldn't hurt.
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