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Twin turbo blow thru 5.0


allpau2thou

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
247
City
Haleiwa, Hi.
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Automatic
I've decided to turbo my carbureted 5.0. I really don't know anything about turbo charging other than what I've read in the past 48 hours. I know what I wanna do I just gotta figure out how to go about it. I'm interested in a twin turbo remote setup. Few modifications Ill need to do to my truck to make it all fit the way I want, but shouldn't be to much work. My goal is more power for cheap so I'm gonna try to collect all the parts on the cheap and do the work myself. Doesn't have to look good, just needs to work good. So... Some questions:
With the turbos located behind the cab will I still need to have an intercooler?
If I do need an intercooler can I mount it in the bed also and use electric fans?
Obviously since my motor is carbureted My boosting is limited to 10psi. I'd like to be able to acquire boosts at low rpms (1200-1500). T3/T4 stage III Turbos are really cheap on eBay. Will they work for my application. Will they work with a oil scavenger pump? Will I need external wastegates? I've got more questions but ill wait a while to see what people have to say so far.
Not in a huge hurry cuz I want to collect my parts as cheap as possible. K den, I know very little about this so the more input the better. Thanks
 
There is a guy on this site that did a very nice remote turbo installation on a dakota. I would suggest you read through his build as it will answer many of your questions, and probably even some you didn't think of yet.
 
Is there a way of searching for him, or do you know his name

Found him, Hahnsb2 wicked truck!

and for anyone interested in turbocharging - theturboforums.com wow!
 
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I'd do something more along the lines of a single turbo in the engine compartment. He used a modified HX40, which is probubly what I would do or a GT45 for 300.00. Alot better than a two t3/t4s. THere is a guy that turbo'd a almost stock 302 blow thru with one, and made almost 500hp to the rear wheels at 15psi. I'd make some log headers with a crossover to feed the exhaust to the turbo. It would save you alot of money.
 
The reason I wanted to go tt is because I want to be able to create boost at low rpms. I live on Oahu and there really isn't too many places where I can drive fast. My goal with my truck is fast as hell from light to light. Im not to concerned about top speed. Tt's will spool faster. I was thinking a 2000 stall converter and twin turbos will give me some pretty good launches. Alot of the guys around here drive ricers so I really just wanna smoke them off the line... I been shopping around and found a set of t3/t4 turbos for 300.00 so I don't think Im going to break the bank. The biggest investment is going to be a blow thru carb. Hoping to find a Holley on ebay and modify it myself. If that works out my tt build should be pretty cheap.
With that said I do wanna have another project along the lines of what Jfive said. Was thinking a Miata or something. That one will get a big single turbo but that motor wont be stock and will be able to handle more than 500 hp. Thats for later back on the East Coast tho...
 
A single can spool just as fast as two small turbos. You just need the right size exhaust side. Hahns knows this stuff alot better than I do, but ask him for a suggestion in size, and I bet he can get u what your looking for. Your gonna want a bigger stall too. 2000 isn't even noticeable. I'd look for at least 3000 to 3200. I have a 2700 to 2900 and its just enough to keep the truck from moving at a red light at idle. stalls to maybe 1800 when you floor it.
 
Cool. Ill check with him. Thanks for the converter recomendations. Haven't really read up on that stuff yet
 
twinturbos_zps46f1d469.jpg


So, I figured this was a good deal ($250 + free shipping) and I get kinda impatient and just do things so... I bought em. Hope they work =)
 
It will work, the problem is not if, but how long. Thats another reason I was suggesting the GT45. They tend to last alot longer than the t3/t4s. Seams like the most I have really heard of with them is 15,000 to 25,000 and thats with good ones. Make sure you have the oil return on the turbo's figured out right off the bat.
 
10-4 on that, I hear you, oils the life blood. I was planning on doing a oil reservoir, everything I can to keep them healthy. I will likely upgrade in a year or so the turbos and my motor once I feel confident in my turbo tuning. I have another motor I'm rebuilding for that time and ill keep my ears out for upgrades as I get my truck dialed in.
 
Those turbos should work fine for the application you are talking about. They will spool decently fast the issue you will have is oiling them if you are talking about a remote location. To use engine oil the turbos must be above the the level of oil in the oil pan. It would be easier to mount them in the engine bay. Buy a flange and figure a hard mount to the engine some where to support the weight of the turbo then you can run simple exhaust tubing with a flex section to the turbo. You have to tap the pan for oil return. A better bet would be to use a separate oil tank for the turbos, a small pump and a small tranny cooler, then pick up an electric fan temp control to run the pump have that wired directly to the battery and have a separate hot wired from engine switched so when the keys on you have power to the pump and when the keys off as long as the engine oil is hot the pumps keep running. The most fun/challenging part is figuring out ducting to the intake. Do you y the two turbos before or after the intercooler. After then you are talking two intercoolers. For about the same price you could have gotten a holset off of a cummings diesel. It would still spool in the 2k range and be a single turbo so much less plumbing. Good luck with it though. Turbo v8s are fun even at low boast. You also need to do something about timing under boost. Considering Im getting 300+ out of a 2.3 liter your five liter should be lots of fun. I'd keep boost below 10 psi unless youve got better than stock pistons exhaust valves and rings.
 
Got any info about timing under boost? So far I've got my turbos, walbro inline, arleromotive 13301, wg's and bov, fuel lines and fittings. At the momment Im relocating a Bronco II tank to where the spare goes to make room for plumbing behind the cab.
For oil I was leaning towards a reservoir, with an oil cooler. But to do that I'm going to need to find a oil pump that can provide enough pressure for the journal bearings. Ill wire it to a delay of some kind so they will have time to cool.
The turbos will be enclosed in a diamond plate like box welded into the bed. And because I'm relocating the tank I'm going to put a side draft in where the original filler was to scoop cold air into the enclosure. I'm going to Y pipe at the passenger side turbo and run a single pipe outside the frame rail and up at the wheel. My neighbor welds aluminum and said he'd do all that for me. Wasn't planning on using an intercooler. Was going to keep it under 5psi until I am able to build a motor that will handle more power... You think ill be able to get away with out one? Ill take some pictures in a bit.
 
Those turbos should work fine for the application you are talking about. They will spool decently fast the issue you will have is oiling them if you are talking about a remote location. To use engine oil the turbos must be above the the level of oil in the oil pan.
A scavenge pump solves this issue, however it can be reliability problem. IMO, independent oil systems create even more headaches.
Got any info about timing under boost
Generally, retarding 1º-2º per pound of boost is a good place to start.
 
There are a few low cost ignition boxes that can do timing control for boost. MSD has one, and so does mallory. MSDs is 8762 btm and the mallory is the 685.
 
Sick! Ill look into either one of those.

As for oil I figure your right about the headache but I figured it be worth the longevity to give them uncontaminated oil. They WILL be above the source but if I ran from the motor would I still need a scavenge pump to get it back?
 

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