Turbo?

[ngeepro15]

i have a 2000 2.5L and im wantin to put on a turbo. has anybody done this and if so what is the best configuration as well as where can i find best parts. i have been looking for strictly ranger parts but havnt found any. im basicaly lookin for the exhaust manifold everything else i can piece together. also if anybody has done this already and has pics i would love to see them. trying to get ideas on how i want to set it up

 

[red85]

You will need to find a set of Turbo Coupe/SVO/Merkur/ pistons otherwise you will melt a piston under heavy boost. You will also need a LA/LB/PC/PE series ecm and matching VAM. Your best bet is to find a complete running 2.3 turbo and use that.

 

[lowjob2000]

I've got a 2000 ranger 4.0 I got turbo put on it and running 8 pounds of boost on stock block cost 2200$ I bought used turbo but idk we're your located but im in Alabama and the shop that did mine has don't turbos on many diffrent cars @ trucks I would call around and find a shop that does that kinda work and go with it im very happy with mine now im putting a edge frontend on it

Sent from my SCH-S950C using Tapatalk 2

 

[Mikel89us]

You will need to find a set of Turbo Coupe/SVO/Merkur/ pistons otherwise you will melt a piston under heavy boost. You will also need a LA/LB/PC/PE series ecm and matching VAM. Your best bet is to find a complete running 2.3 turbo and use that.

Wrong, the 2.3 piston will stick out of the top of the block 1/2" if you try to put them on 2.5 rods, and 1/4" if you try to put 2.3 rods and pistons in.

You can use stock pistons, but don't exceed 6psi of boost. Your other option is to find 2.5 forged flat tops, they will give you a high compression ratio, but if you don't try to put 20psi to them. You will overheat everything. Custom pistons are an option, but the will run you about $700..

As for fuel management, a quarterhorse tuner is a good option, I just bought one for my mustang and its fairly easy to use. You will need a bigger fuel pump, and injectors. ECT.

 

[vstar650ca]

i have a 2000 2.5L and im wantin to put on a turbo. has anybody done this and if so what is the best configuration as well as where can i find best parts. i have been looking for strictly ranger parts but havnt found any. im basicaly lookin for the exhaust manifold everything else i can piece together. also if anybody has done this already and has pics i would love to see them. trying to get ideas on how i want to set it up

Put a 5.0 l in it cheaper then a turbo

 

[Road Angels]

turbo

Forget the 2.5 you will have to destroke it with 2.3 rotating parts and forged pistons 2.5 is 7mm stroked with different rods and wrist pin height, you can get forged pistons made for the 2.5 mine were $700 plus rings so I can run NOS, my build on my 2.5 with evey thing is going to be in the $3500 range not including the cost of the engine, and thats with me doing my own head work and evey thing except the crank work, change it out for a 2.3 turbo complete system or a v8, or even a 4.0 would be the easiest

 

[Mikel89us]

Forget the 2.5 you will have to destroke it with 2.3 rotating parts and forged pistons 2.5 is 7mm stroked with different rods and wrist pin height, you can get forged pistons made for the 2.5 mine were $700 plus rings so I can run NOS, my build on my 2.5 with evey thing is going to be in the $3500 range not including the cost of the engine, and thats with me doing my own head work and evey thing except the crank work, change it out for a 2.3 turbo complete system or a v8, or even a 4.0 would be the easiest

You can get a set of forged 2.5 pistons, with rings and 5.7" chromoly rods for $750 from www.esslingeracing.com . You can build a decent 2.5t for about $1500. Like I said though, you will have high compression, and boost will be limited to about 15psi max. Everyone says 5.0 swaps are cheap, they are not. To do it right you will drop at least 2grand into it.

 

[Road Angels]

engine

Mike if you go back and look you need to use the 2.3 crank and have to go 30 over on the pistons, with the 2.5 crank witch is stroked you would be knocking the head off,witch you already know, 2.5 are zero deck height with a stock crank, 5.7 rods also require the 2.3 crank to be reworked ALL of esslimgers stuff is based on 2.3 engine builds not 2.5 yes you can build a 2.3 to any where from 2300 to 2720 , you will also loose a ton of torque because the 2.5 crank is much heavier and bore the cylinders out more than I want, if I was going to build a turbo I would not waste my money at esslimger but at bo-port, since you dont know what Iam building its a moot point, also Ross pistons are the best, and thats what I use and there $$$ the kit you refer to has chevy rods there not moly or forged and the rod jounals on the 2.3 crank needs to be ground to 2" to use them, crap co pistons, my engines are always blue printed to a nats ass, and will spin 7,000 on the button- read Gas

 

[Mikel89us]

No, he has a 2.5, if he wants to turbo it, he needs 2.5 pistons and rods. Unless he wants to buy a 2.3 crank. The Esslinger 2.5 piston and 5.7 rod kit is a drop in kit. There is no machine work required to the crank, only getting the block bored. And you can turn 7000 out of a stock bottom end easy. I used to race a mustang on dirt, and the cam I used was massive, I took a bone stock 80,000 mile motor out of a buddys street car, threw my good head on it and turned 8k rpm at a 1/3 mile dirt track. Then took it back to my home track and ran 7500 for 4 more weeks on it before we got a good bottom end put together. You do not have to use the Honda rod bearing to make these turn good rpm.

Here's my proof that you are mistaken, a link to the 2.5 piston and rod kit from esslinger
http://store.esslingeracing.com/Car...l_seal_classic_non_gapless_rings-details.aspx

 

[Road Angels]

That kit is for use to build a 2.3 into a 2.5, with a 2.3 crank, you can not put that stuff on a 2.5 crank you cant even make the pistons work with a 2.5 crank the wrist pin would be in the middle of the oil ring, 2.5 factory engines use just over a 5.5 rod, a 5.7 rod with a 7mm stroked 2.5 crank would with those pistons above deck even with the tall blocks , friends 2.5 unlimited hydoplane spins 8200 on celivite 77 bearings, hilborn injected on alky and I know he has a 2.5 to start with, all I saw was a picture on your link

 

[Mikel89us]

Lol you know that a 2.5 is made out a a 2.3 by stroking it right??? When you use a 2.3 crank, and have it turned down to the 2" rod bearing, the ofset grind it and add that 7mm stroke. Where do you think the difference is in the 2.5 and 2.3?? They use the same bore size. The only differences are the crank stroke, rod length, and piston pin height. You are right however, the wrist pin is in the oil control ring, but it does not hurt anything.

 

[Mikel89us]

That kit is for use to build a 2.3 into a 2.5, with a 2.3 crank

Wrong, that set is for a 2.5 crank, call esslinger and ask them. It is not a kit for the small rod journal. It is for the stock 2.5 crank size.

 

[Road Angels]

2.5 are small rod jounals the same as the later 2.3, its the 2.5 crank that gets offset ground to use the 5.7 rods down to 2" for the chevy 6 rods

 

[Mikel89us]

No sir, all 2.3, 2.0, and 2.5 lima engines use the same rod bearing. The main journal is what they changed. When you change rod length, you do not change displacement. The rod length only changes the dwell time of the piston at top dead center. There are only two ways to increase displacement, bore and stroke. Neither of which have anything to do with the rod.

When you put a 5.7 inch rod in a 2.3l, its still a 2.3. But you have to change the piston so it matches. The long rod also lowers the weight of the piston because it can be smaller (shorter).

 

[Road Angels]

turbo

the bearings for the 2.5 and 2.3 are the small mains and rods, I have both sitting here in my shop they changed the thrust bearing width on the 2.5, esslinger said to use the 2.5 crank with a 2" grind on the rods with >.005 ths off set to allow for squaring up the block, line hone then a deck skim, just looked up the main jounals in the spec sheet they are the same all 1995 to 2001 you cant off set grind 2.3 crank 7mm with out welding it up, do to piston design not recommed for boost applications, as far as lighter piston its off set due to the extra weight of the rod since the rod is percentage balanced ( top verses bottom) from its full length not just weight matched, and a short skited piston is not the best for a driver for wear un like a race engine thats gone thru on a regular bases