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Tuff County 4in lift review (87 supercab 4x4)


tx_pwp5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
123
City
Austin, TX
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
4 inches
Tire Size
31x10.50
My credo
More auto shenanagans on instagram @waterloocustomworks
Tuff Country 4in lift (1987 Supercab 4x4)

This kit was highly recommended over the rough country due to a better bracket design.

The lift seems like it is of decent quality, but I've got nothing but complaints so far.

First, the instructions are poorly written, and the parts list isn't descriptive enough for my taste. I like to have a clear inventory before I start so I know I'm not missing anything. I would also have preferred that instead of "hardware kit" it actually describe the size/qty of the nuts and bolts, etc. There were no wrench sizes included and none of the bolt head sizes were described, only the thread sizes. Lazy oversight IMO.

The axle drop brackets on mine seemed ok, but the bolt retainer channel that is welded on for the side of the brackets for the camber kit is too thin and looks like it will bend with any big bump. We will see, but I have a feeling I'll be fighting camber adjustments on this thing forever.

The rear most drop brackets for the short torsion bars were drilled incorrectly so I had to mount the rear bolt, then drill new holes in the frame to align with the bracket holes. Using the existing bracket holes as a guide was easier than trying to blindly drill through the brackets or drilling from the inner side of the rail. The holes all matched up otherwise, though the tolerances weren't very strict. Drilling the new holes also required me to cut out all of the bottom portion of my inner wheel well to get the drill where it needed to be.

The front lift fought me at every turn. Twice I did extra work that didn't need to be done due to crappy instructions. Due to an oversight on my part I used the larger bolts in the package for the rear (but still front) axle beam drop down bracket, causing me to drill out the holes to 1/2in and use 4 of the larger bolts that I had to then re-purchase for the other part of the kit. The bolts are only 1 size different so I grabbed them before I noticed. This could have been avoided with a better description in the instructions, but my fault either way.

The rear was even more disappointing.
While the add-a-leaf was easy to install, the thing is so thin that it doesn't provide any actual lift. The only lift I got out of this was the physical width of the add a leaf spring which is just under 1/2 inch. Now I still have to buy new rear leaf springs (or explorer springs). Nothing/Nobody mentioned this could happen, so the extra work and expense sucks.

Finally, I'm still having trouble getting the front end aligned perfectly. The camber still isn't right even with the kit that it comes with. I'm going to keep messing with this and try another alignment shop. I could have a frame issue so I won't blame this completely on the lift just yet. I already had to purchase the 200.00 skyjacker drop pitman arm so I was planning on this thing being straight and flat.

I also somehow have issues getting a straight steering wheel. Might not bother some people, but when everything gets dropped the same 4 inches the thing should be straight. I'll keep looking into this.

In conclusion, the brackets have a better design on this lift, and that is about where I stop the praise. Pretty unsatisfied. Don't love the California look, it was a BI*#$ to install, and I still have to buy more stuff to get it right. I've used two other rough country lifts on other trucks before this (not as "extreme") but they were still much easier to install. I'm almost exactly 2 inches lower in the rear than the front.

Finally, the diagram to re-locate the sway bar and the front brake lines are from a different truck, probably newer. My sway bar never had to be disconnected at all, and I had to detach the front lines to re-locate them. Not a big deal, but I don't think anyone actually likes to bleed brakes so I'm just throwing that in there.

Hope this helps, and hope not everyone had the same experience as me on this.
 
In reference to your alinement issues.
Do you have two mounting holes in the drop brackets for the pivot mounts?
If so, which one did you use?
 
In reference to your alinement issues.
Do you have two mounting holes in the drop brackets for the pivot mounts?
If so, which one did you use?

Just the one hole on each drop bracket. I'm pretty sure I missed the Pitman arm alignment by a quarter turn on the steering shaft, so I'm going to disconnect it and put it back on, then take it to a real 4x4 shop for another alignment since its going to be pulling extra hard then. I had to get the first one done at a run-of-the-mill alignment place on a saturday so I could drive it to work monday. Fortunately they didn't charge me for it so hopefully the second shop can get it right.

Once I get the rear leaf situation fixed I'll drive it for a couple weeks and do a follow up. It does ride fairly nice up front so far, and I get new 31in tires in a couple days so when everything is all buttoned up I'll see how I feel about it then. Not like it's going anywhere either way though lol.

The next thing I want to find out is the driveshaft vs angled blocks question I have on another thread.
 
UPDATE

I've been driving on this thing for a while now, and I'm starting to warm up to it.

The springs the lift came with in the front ride really well. I would suggest anyone who is doing this to "spring" for the new rear leaf springs instead of just the add a leafs. I built some "new" packs out of a combination of my ranger leafs and some explorer leafs to finally get it level.

I took the truck to a different alignment shop and they had no problems getting it lined up, other than the steering wheel that is still turned about 90* clockwise. We have determined that the Skyjacker FA600 drop pitman arm is either counterfeit or just keyed wrong from the factory. Either way, I'm going to try pulling and re-installing the steering wheel to try and see my gas gauge again.

The end question is...was it worth it?

In short, yes, but only with the 1 piece driveshaft swap.
 

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