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TTB extended radius arms and crossmember...


lil_Blue_Ford

Cut & Weld
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Messages
10,889
City
Butler
State - Country
PA - USA
Vehicle Year
2000
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Engine
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
4”
So the time is nearing for me to get to work on my choptop again....

I'm swapping a D-35 in and I think it's time to do something about my extended radius arms.... The ones in there work, but they have a few issues (plus I'm running rod ends right now with some custom spacers on the brackets because they don't fit quite perfect).

I'm not afraid of fabbing something new up, but I'm not sure what would be better to use for the pivot (johnny joints, rubber/poly bushings, etc) and would like some input before I get started.

I think I'm going to do a custom trans crossmember while I'm at it and tie the whole mess together, so it might be nice to see what others have done about that too.

And no, I'm not going to SAS my choptop.... that sort of change is being saved for another project :icon_welder:
 
i used 2x2x.250 wall on mine.
PC090004.jpg


they only go to right in front of the factory trans x member though. i got some of the factory bushings and used those but when i re-do them i'll probably go with heims and make a custom trans x member.

it would be much easier to fab up mounts for the heims, i had to drill through 2 pieces of 1/4" plate at 2 1/8" IIRC. i used oil, so it wasnt hard, but still....all a heim would need is a 1/2" bolt hole.
P9270108.jpg
 
^ Why didnt you just order a set of Radius arm drop brackets from rough country for a 80-96 F150? They're beefy as hell and cheap. You didnt have to fab up anything lol.

F25604145.jpg

Or you could have gotten new Stock F150 radius arm brackets. Either way, you would have gotten a set for around $80. I dont know about you, but my time fabbing something up like that is worth more than $80 any day.
 
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i only spent $20 on the metal and maybe 3 hours building them. i have more time available than money available too lol
 
Ah. Gotcha! Either way, your fab skills are definitely decent!
 
I've never been able to figure out how to get the bolt/stud mounted securly. How did you do it?:icon_confused:

the best way is to leave the bottom of the stud sticking out about a 1/4" and do a fillet weld (i think that's what it would be called). i didnt do that though, i just goobered the mess out of it and made several passes.

then drill 4 holes in the wall of the arm to do a plug weld (you can see in the pic where i did one of mine.)
 
the best way is to leave the bottom of the stud sticking out about a 1/4" and do a fillet weld (i think that's what it would be called). i didnt do that though, i just goobered the mess out of it and made several passes.

then drill 4 holes in the wall of the arm to do a plug weld (you can see in the pic where i did one of mine.)

Okay thanks:icon_thumby:
 
I used round tube for mine (2" O.D. DOM w/.250" wall thickness), otherwise it's basically the same setup.

702959_14_full.jpg

702959_15_full.jpg

702959_16_full.jpg


To answer the OP's question, IMO, bushings are best if you'll be using it on the street or in muddy conditions regularly (the grit will wear a heim out a lot faster).
If max bind-free travel is what you're after, then the heim or a Johnny-Joint might be the better choice.
 
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These are mine I built. If you decide to use square tubing and a heim joint you can buy a square tube adapter from Ballistic Fab. I bought two for my extended radius arms I built for my SAS.

These are 2" square 1/4" wall and the back side is boxed.
DSC03531.jpg

DSC03539.jpg
 
This the setup I'm working on. I took some extended arms I found in the j/y and made them to fit hiems. They are beefy as hell, although the hiems may be a little on the small side so know I am aware of that possible issue.
853db291.jpg

6ab0b66f.jpg

3bb1293f.jpg

a812d560.jpg


At ride height.
fedb60c2.jpg


This isn't in yet I'm still in the middle of putting it together but im using 6" Cherokee coils and I'm very impressed with the potential flexing capacity.
 
This the setup I'm working on. I took some extended arms I found in the j/y and made them to fit hiems. They are beefy as hell, although the hiems may be a little on the small side so know I am aware of that possible issue.
853db291.jpg

6ab0b66f.jpg

3bb1293f.jpg

a812d560.jpg


At ride height.
fedb60c2.jpg


This isn't in yet I'm still in the middle of putting it together but im using 6" Cherokee coils and I'm very impressed with the potential flexing capacity.

you have them on upside down... your caster angle isn't going to be good that way, believe me...
 

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