TTB extended radius arms and crossmember...

[prerunnerwannabe]

prerunner, this is what i meant by leaving the stud sticking out of the arm material so you can do a fillet weld.

Ah okay. So if you are using square tubing, you just use a steel block instead of a tube?

 

[88_Eddie]

imagine this as if you were hold the arm parallel to the ground with the stud sticking out the end. the circular part is the stud and the box is your arm.

i used some 1/4" scrap pieces i had laying around (red squares in pic above) to fill in the corners. i welded them to the stud, then put the stud inside my arm material and then welded all that together. it shouldnt be moving at all

 

[88_Eddie]

and just to let yall know, i pretty much copied what sasquatch_ryda did in this thread:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91485

it's a good write up with lots of good pics and posts

only thing i did different was not make them as long and built more caster into them

 

[yodaman1151]

The longer ear goes on the bottom right? I had a set of beams with stock arms on it as a guide... Thought I copied it ...

 

[prerunnerwannabe]

imagine this as if you were hold the arm parallel to the ground with the stud sticking out the end. the circular part is the stud and the box is your arm.

i used some 1/4" scrap pieces i had laying around (red squares in pic above) to fill in the corners. i welded them to the stud, then put the stud inside my arm material and then welded all that together. it shouldnt be moving at all

Thanks! Sorry for the noobish questions. Thanks again for help!

 

[88_Eddie]

no problem, that's what we're here for

 

[4x4junkie]

The longer ear goes on the bottom right? I had a set of beams with stock arms on it as a guide... Thought I copied it ...

If the top & bottom surface of the beam is level to the ground with it sitting at ride height, you should be fine. If it's tipped forward at all though, then all bets are off.

 

[yodaman1151]

If the top & bottom surface of the beam is level to the ground with it sitting at ride height, you should be fine. If it's tipped forward at all though, then all bets are off.

That's what I kinda did. I didn't consider the caster (my first real suspension build) I just looked at my other truck and tried to match it. It all sits pretty level at ride height. Thanks

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks for the input so far!

My choptop is probably going to see more use on the road than anything. I had it on the road until the windshield got smashed and I got tired of replacing D-28 shafts (that point was reached just before a branch fell in a storm on the windshield). I intend on putting it back on the road after fixing things up (planning on swapping in my D-35, putting my 35's on, adding a rollcage, etc). That said, I also intend on taking it off-road, more trails and rocks rather than mud though.

I'd have to take some measurements, but I started thinking that maybe if I go with heims or the like, I might be able to re-use the frame mounts that were already made and just modify them to allow bolting in a custom trans crossmember, kind of like what sasquach did. If it will work out, might be a better idea to do that than start completely from scratch....

 

[scotts90ranger]

The longer ear goes on the bottom right? I had a set of beams with stock arms on it as a guide... Thought I copied it ...

Yep, as long as the beam orientation is right that's what matters, I realized your radius arms weren't symmetrical like the stock arms after I posted...

 

[yodaman1151]

Yep, as long as the beam orientation is right that's what matters, I realized your radius arms weren't symmetrical like the stock arms after I posted...

You'd had me freaked out... I didn't consider caster when putting them together and just made them sit basically the same as my "stock" truck. Should have it together soon and can get some pics

Sorry OP for thread jacking...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well, finally got around to measuring the brackets, looks like they're a little too narrow (I have 1 5/8" inside measurement). But looking at how they were made and where they are mounted left me thinking that it shouldn't be all that difficult to make new brackets wide enough to use with joints. I can use the same bolt holes I drilled for mounting those ones and it is in a perfect position to fab up a new trans crossmember that will bolt in.

Seems like that might be a lot easier than trying to make something else work, I'd just have to get the steel and start welding.

The next question that comes is what joints to use..... Heims, Johnny Joints, Creeper Joints or Ballistic Fab joints. Heims are the cheapest but I'm not sold on the idea of using them, seems like the other joints would allow easier movement and being greaseable, having a longer lifespan.

Creeper Joints are next in line for price at just over $35 each. Not sure about how quality they are although I suspect they would probably be adequate quality.

Johnny Joints are next in line as far as price being just under $45 each. I know they are a decent joint, but I've heard a lot of people complain about the use of a snap ring to secure the guts of the joint. Not sure if that would really be much of an issue or not.

Ballistic Joints are the most expensive at $54 each, but they are made in the USA and appear to be of top quality.

Anyone care to express an opinion on these? I've been leaning towards the Ballistic Joints just because they are made in this country, but I'm already looking at throwing a lot of money at my choptop (the rest of changing over to the D-35 front, adding the rollcage, replacing the windshield, new rims for my new-to-me tires is going to run me over a grand already) and I'm hesitating to pull the trigger as it is.

Then the other thing is, should I get one joint with a RH thread and one with a LH thread or both the same? (which side should I mount each on too). I'm inclined to go with a threaded insert for the tube to extend my arms rather than try to weld a nut in place or the like so tapping threads is no matter.

 

[88_Eddie]

i'd want something rebuildable/greasable as well. the creepers look like a cheaper version of the ballistic joints, but like you said the ballistics are made here. i may use heims for mine still because my b2 will never be a DD.

i dont think the thread direction really matters, but i'll leave that question for someone that knows better

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Go with the Johnny joints.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

ok, I thought up another question....

I was looking at the stock arms and considering adding a piece of square tube to lengthen them and then a piece of plate to box them and started wondering just how difficult it would be to just build a custom set of extended arms instead of modifying the stock ones....

If I'm not thinking straight, please tell me now, lol.