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Truggy trail rig build thread


W Ton front
I was talking about the shafts themselves, the flanges on the fw 8.8 was too big, as in your case, but he did some digging and found smaller flanges shafts for the fw 8.8, what disk brake setup are/were you going with?

SVT

It's not the flange that is different it is the hub that sticks through the rotor or drum. I have the newer staffs with the smaller hub. I was going to use 1/2 ton front rotors and ruff stuff brackets. The explorer rotors might not have anymore stopping power than the stock 1/2 ton12" drums.
 
my vote is you boatside the ranger cab and dovenose it. thats basicly a buggy anyways but you can cut the doors up to fit in winter. i like buggies and all but i do think theyre suited for california where you dont have to worry about mud/rain/snow/cold.. anywhere else for anyone who actually takes thier truck in places that arnt all solid rock i bet you would be tired of being wet and cold real quick
 
Thanks, I don't know why nobody else on here likes buggies:dunno:

It's not that I don't like buggies, love them in fact. If I had the money and a choice between buggy and truck, buggy wins hands down. As far as being in a cab for winter or wet conditions, I think doors or windows could easily be made into a buggy. I just think that if you go the buggy route, you'd be better off starting with a pile of pipe versus starting with a truck frame. Engine/drivetrain placement, axle placement, and so on will still be determined by the truck frame or cab parts, unless you get rid of that also, and at that point there was no reason to start with the truck anyways.
 
It's not that I don't like buggies, love them in fact. If I had the money and a choice between buggy and truck, buggy wins hands down. As far as being in a cab for winter or wet conditions, I think doors or windows could easily be made into a buggy. I just think that if you go the buggy route, you'd be better off starting with a pile of pipe versus starting with a truck frame. Engine/drivetrain placement, axle placement, and so on will still be determined by the truck frame or cab parts, unless you get rid of that also, and at that point there was no reason to start with the truck anyways.

Starting with a pile of tube would take way too much time,space,money,and knowledge that I don't have. The Ranger frame is so narrow it really doesn't get in the way. The only parts in the way of what I want to do are the crossmember under the engine and the body itself. The axles are where I want them (111" wheelbase) the steering box is where I want it. No body panels or glass to worry about, lower center of gravity and hundreds of pounds lighter plus a better weight distribution front to back. Compare a F-toy vs a regular toyota truck...
 
Looks better now.
2012-07-23_19-12-14_444.jpg

I was surprised how clean it was under the intake.
2012-07-23_19-08-31_253.jpg
 
CV u-joint question. It looks like my front driveshaft has a 1310 cv joint. So I guess I need to get a 1310 cv yoke for a 205 for the front. But the rear shaft looks like a cardan setup so I just need to get a 1310/1350 conversion joint for the rear. Has anybody done this.
 
Or get a different output yoke to fit the joint you want to run...

SVT
 
Or get a different output yoke to fit the joint you want to run...

SVT

Yeah get 1 1310 cv yoke and 1 1310 non cv yoke. That way all my driveshaft ujoints are 1310.

Also got the rear axle painted. But still waiting on parts from rockauto.
2012-07-22_13-09-42_846.jpg
 
What distributor you put in the motor?
 
My suggestion

aeeec1c4-a790-22fe.jpg


Your plan (I think?)

aeeec1c4-a80e-3a9c.jpg


Both are 92 rangers. One has a cab, the other is all tube but still utilizes the ranger frame
 
The top pic is what I have now just no doors. The lower pic is not what I plan on it looking like. Is that a 4 seat ranger?
 
My plan is to keep my bed and add new tubing from the b-hoop forward. But the sides will go from tire to tire.
 
85 carb 5.0 mustang distributor with a steel gear. I'm just going to run the DurasparkII setup, no msd box or anything like that. I want everything simple and reliable.

If you want reliable I would steer far away from the duraspark setup. Those boxes never seem to last too long. I don't know if they don't like shock or vibration or what, but the die, often. If you do go that way at least grab yourself some extras to keep as spares.
 

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