Truck won't start with spout connected.

[Rangersblenger]

So i got a 93 ranger 2.3 single cam. The truck came with some hard idleness and a "kill switch" spliced to the pink wire on the spout connector. I splice the original wire to the spout back on and removed the "kill switch". I figured starting a factory will help me figure it out but i found that when i removed switch the truck wouldn't start. It will only start if i remove the spout 'switch'. I read the spout switch is for setting the timing? So why won't the car start when the switch is connected and why does the truck stutter weather is on and off?

 

[Shran]

The SPOUT connector allows the computer to adjust the timing on the fly... removing it more or less just puts it back to where it was set. Sounds to me like the timing is set incorrectly, I would probaby start by checking the timing marks and/or pull the belt and re-time it from scratch.

 

[RonD]

1993 2.3l uses a Crank Sensor and ICM(ignition control module) so there is no Spark Timing adjustment, no distributor

So there is no use for a SPOUT connector(it's there from the older system), it always needs to be connected, which is why previous own used it for a "kill switch"

Leave the pink wire(SPOUT) disconnected if engine runs that way, and use a timing light to check current spark timing at idle, should be about 12deg BTDC without the Pink wire connected

Without the SPOUT signal the engine should be slow to REV and stumble on acceleration
SPOUT is the "Vacuum Advance" for electronic ignitions, changes spark timing when you press down on gas pedal
Without this signal the ICM just has RPM spark advance, think Model T and the spark advance lever on steering wheel, lol

The 1989 to 1994 ICMs on the 2.3l were known issues, they do run hot, they are also grounded by the 3 screws/bolts that hold them to the lower intake and these screws get rusty so poor ground and poor running

The problem could be the ICM's internal circuit for the pink wire............or a long shot and its a computer issue

Wiring here for your system: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Ignitionsystem_1990_2_3.JPG

 

[genhawk21]

Just a follow up for the folks who posted here (I'm not OP but am a friend of OP).

The timing checked out ok. Replaced the ICM and the problem persists. This work was done at a fairly trusted mechanic so this is probably reliable info.

We'll probably see if we can scavenge a junkyard ECU-- besides ECU and the wiring harness itself we are currently out of ideas.

If anyone has any other thoughts, please let us know!!

At this point we'd just reconnect the "kill switch" to override the problem, except the vehicle needs to pass emissions to get registered. Plus it would be nice to actually fix the issue!

 

[genhawk21]

Update and a question for anyone who knows:

Question: Will one of these start with a bad crank sensor and the SPOUT connector disconnected? I know it won't start with a bad crank sensor under normal conditions, I would assume it would never start under any conditions with a bad crank sensor - but you know what they say about assuming, and I clearly don't actually understand how it all works.

Update: A different ECU made no difference. I spent some time troubleshooting the ICM with this guide. I'm suspicious of the ICM ground as it has no bolts installed on the left side, but it did show engine voltage when I pierced the orange w/red wire and ran it to (+) indicating good ground to the ICM. The guide's test for the CKP crank sensor failed but I don't know if I cranked it over enough by hand and I really wasn't in the mood to pull the exhaust side plugs so there's a good chance the test was wrong.

I did test for spark from the exhaust side coil, after learning that on startup the engine only uses the exhaust side plugs. Tested good.

At this point I'm all out of ideas. Two good mechanics have also failed to figure this out. The only other thing I can think of is pulling the AC compressor and reinstalling the ICM in a way that I'm confident it has a good ground. Or doing a continuity check on every wire to the ECU and ICM. I did test the four grounds to the ECU and they are good.

If anyone has any thoughts we would much appreciate it!

Problem recap: Crank, no start with SPOUT jumper installed. Starts and runs well with SPOUT jumper removed (and reinstalled once started), until hot and then it idles rough.

 

[RonD]

Use a short screw in the metal hole on the lower left hand hole on the ICM, with ground wire attached to the screw, just to take that off the table

The upper left usually never had a screw/bolt in it from the factory, the lower left was the chassis ground for the circuit board and it was needed

That bolt hole in the ICM not having a good ground did cause issues

The voltage has a different ground path and a ground wire, the case ground or chassis ground is thru those metal bolt holes
What could be happening is that the spout wire is being used as a ground path via PCM, causing the no spark on startup with spout connected
But just guessing

 

[genhawk21]

Thanks Ron. I forgot to mention that I did try grounding that lower left screw hole with a piece of bare copper wire right to the negative terminal and it didn't matter, but I think I will get in there and make sure the ICM is on correctly grounded. Even if that isn't the issue, it seems likely it could turn into one down the road. It doesn't make sense to move on without conclusively ruling it out.

As for the short screw thing, will any sort of self-tapper work? I can't see it right now but I'm pretty sure the old bolt is snapped off in the hole. Would it be overkill to also slap on an eyelet with a wire to one of the body grounds? I'll have to remove the AC compressor to get at it, so I don't want to leave any stones unturned while I'm there.

I'll also do a visual check on the wiring harness overall -- some one previously tampered with both the SPOUT connector and cut out the test port completely (why????) so it could very well be a simple wiring issue, something touching what it shouldn't be or broken or cut. I do have a factory electrical book so if need be I can check each wire one by one, for continuity anyway. I'm a dummy with this stuff but I think I can handle that much. Kind of tedious but it might be a good learning exercise.

This is a real puzzler. The good news is the truck runs as is, with some fussing. But this truck only has 116k miles and is pretty clean overall, so I'd love to get it all the way fixed!

 

[RonD]

Google: We FIXED The $300 Ford Ranger And It Doesn't Make ANY SENSE

Video with a Ranger 2.3l and the EXACT same problem with SPOUT
And they never fixed it, just put a switch on it, lol

Is this the one you bought?

 

[dvdswan]

@RonD I see a crystal ball in your future. LOL

 

[genhawk21]

Google: We FIXED The $300 Ford Ranger And It Doesn't Make ANY SENSE

Video with a Ranger 2.3l and the EXACT same problem with SPOUT
And they never fixed it, just put a switch on it, lol

Is this the one you bought?

Haha yes I've seen that. Not the same truck, this one is green with an extended cab.

It kind of rustles my jimmies that they say they fixed, when they didn't.

 

[RonD]

They "solved" the no start, by unplugging the SPOUT
I never looked for follow up videos to see if the new PCM he was waiting for "fixed" it
Yours didn't

 

[genhawk21]

If they change the title to "We got the $300 Ranger running" or "We found a workaround for the $300 Ranger" I'll put my pitchfork away.

In the meantime, I ended up having to remove everything including the lower intake manifold to have room to get in there and drill new holes for the ICM. It's now "mega grounded," but I have to finish putting it all back together before we find out if it worked. Just have the upper intake to go, almost there. I ran a wire to connect the left side screws, which are fresh and have new holes, and that bottom wire is going right over to one of the body grounds by the fuse box. I don't think it can get any more grounded than that. Maybe overkill but I'd like to rule it out conclusively.

We also tested every wire from the ICM connectors to the ECU connector (or coils) for continuity while there was room to get at them, all were good.

 

[Snoranger]

Did you test the SPOUT wire for a short to ground? It would behave the way you’re describing if it was shorted to ground between the ECM and the spout connector.

 

[genhawk21]

Did you test the SPOUT wire for a short to ground? It would behave the way you’re describing if it was shorted to ground between the ECM and the spout connector.

No, I haven't and that's a very timely idea as grounding the ICM didn't change anything.

What is the best way to do that? I have a test light and a multimeter available, but I'm not great at electrical or diagnostics so I could use a pointer to make sure I test it correctly.

 

[Snoranger]

I have a Ford breakout box, so I would go about it a little different. Here’s some things I would check with the tools you have.
-Pull the SPOUT, start the engine, and test for power from the ECM side of the SPOUT connector. A digital multi meter will average the high and low voltage spikes on the SPOUT wire... you should see between 3-7 volts. (An analog meter will actually show you the voltage swings. You could even use a LED test light and see if it flashes.)

If you have 3-7 volts, your SPOUT is working correctly. You have 2 options: leave the SPOUT connector out or find an EEC-IV expert.

If you don’t have 3-7 volts, what do you have?
12 (or close) volts, you have a short to power. 0 (or close) volts you have a short to ground.