Truck won't go in gear after changing slave

[mftizy]

So I changed my clutch and the whole kaboodle about 8 months ago with an ebay Clutch maxx kit. Well the other day I had alot of trouble getting into any gear, and when I went to let out of first i'd hear a screeching sound and figured it was the throwout bearing (I know these cheap slaves are notorious for failing early) So I picked up a new slave cyl from autozone Today, and me and a buddy swapped it out. Put everything back in, bleed the master and go to put it into gear while running and nothing. Will not go into any gear, if you put it in first and then start it up and slowly let out on the clutch it lurches foward. Any ideas what could be going on? Also when I removed the old slave the throwout bearing completely came off, there was nothing holding it onto the slave anymore. Could it be the pilot bearing? I'm at a loss and just spent the past 3 hours bleeding it and replacing the entire clutch master, and the clutch line but that did nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[RonD]

That's a puzzler

Possible its the pilot bearing, its purpose is to allow clutch disc/input shaft to slow down to 0 RPMs so you can put transmission into a gear when stopped

Transmission is always spinning at rear wheel RPMs, there is no disconnect, so when stopped trans gears are at 0rpms
If engine is idling then its at, say, 700rpms
So when you press clutch pedal down pressure plate is pulled back which should allow clutch disc and input shaft to slow down to 0rpms
Pilot bearing supports the end of the input shaft inside the 700rpm crank shaft, so if pilot bearing was bad, sticking, it wouldn't let input shaft slow down to 0rpms

Just FYI you should always use a self-adjusting Pressure plate on Rangers, well on ANY vehicle with internal slave cylinder, really
New clutch discs are a bit thick to use on regular pressure plates, so clutch pedal has to be down to the floor AND an inch farther, lol, to get proper shifting, at least until the disc wears down a bit

 

[mftizy]

That's a puzzler

Possible its the pilot bearing, its purpose is to allow clutch disc/input shaft to slow down to 0 RPMs so you can put transmission into a gear when stopped

Transmission is always spinning at rear wheel RPMs, there is no disconnect, so when stopped trans gears are at 0rpms
If engine is idling then its at, say, 700rpms
So when you press clutch pedal down pressure plate is pulled back which should allow clutch disc and input shaft to slow down to 0rpms
Pilot bearing supports the end of the input shaft inside the 700rpm crank shaft, so if pilot bearing was bad, sticking, it wouldn't let input shaft slow down to 0rpms

Just FYI you should always use a self-adjusting Pressure plate on Rangers, well on ANY vehicle with internal slave cylinder, really
New clutch discs are a bit thick to use on regular pressure plates, so clutch pedal has to be down to the floor AND an inch farther, lol, to get proper shifting, at least until the disc wears down a bit

Thanks for the reply, It's a self adjusting one from ebay. It did this same thing last time after we changed the clutch, however we just kept bleeding it and it eventually went into gear with ease. This time around not so much, there is no way there is anymore air in the lines so It has to be something internally going on. Guess I get the lovely chore of dropping it all over again after work this week just hoping it's the pilot bearing. My next choice will be an entire new reman trans with a new clutch not from Ebay

 

[RonD]

Well if its the same Master cylinder it may be time to pull it and flip it upside down then bleed system again by manually pushing in master push rod while hose is at the top
Or just replace it with pre-bled Master

Master sits at a steep angle in the cab, if system ever runs dry(reservoir) then air can get trapped in the Master and it won't come out at that angle no matter how much you bleed it

There is a video on pulling the C-clip while master is installed, lets piston come up and releases any air, never tried that myself

 

[mftizy]

Well if its the same Master cylinder it may be time to pull it and flip it upside down then bleed system again by manually pushing in master push rod while hose is at the top
Or just replace it with pre-bled Master

Master sits at a steep angle in the cab, if system ever runs dry(reservoir) then air can get trapped in the Master and it won't come out at that angle no matter how much you bleed it

There is a video on pulling the C-clip while master is installed, lets piston come up and releases any air, never tried that myself

I replaced the entire master cylinder this time, and did exactly that before installing it. I then bled it to make sure the clutch line was good. I have good pressure when I press down, it just still will not go in gear while running

 

[RonD]

Does it still make a noise if you start it in gear?


On the self-adjusting pressure plate were the 3 or 4 smaller springs fully compressed?

 

[mftizy]

Okay so I actually just checked, and it is a non self adjusting pressure plate. Also it kinda makes a very short screeching sound if I start in gear and go to slowly pull the shifter out of gear. Although it doesn't just lurch foward if I start it in gear which to me means the clutch is disengaging

 

[rubydist]

I am betting you don't have it bled properly. This clutch master/slave is a real pita to bleed, and in one case I finally gave up and bought another slave that was "pre-bled" and installed that because I could not get the first one to bleed properly no matter what I did.

 

[mftizy]

So before installing the master I filled up the reservoir, pulled out the plunger and held it until gravity forced the air out, then stuck it back in. Then I instlled it, and connected the clutch line to it and then bled it again for 10-15 minutes. I have really good pressure in my pedal