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Truck starts and dies


rangergurl69

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
10
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I have a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 that will start and then die. It sat for 6yrs and with the same fuel in it. We took the tank off and cleaned it out as well as replaced both the fuel pumps and the filter, along with a tune up. It starts up but runs rough and will not rev over idle and then it will die. I have already tried B12 and Fuel Injector cleaner. It does have fuel pressure between 40 and 60lbs. Any Help you can give to me would be greatly appreciated. I am at witts end with this.:icon_twisted:
 
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B12 always works for me if you have old gas in the injectors and fuel lines...you can get it at autozone or advance, itll clean it right up if old gas is the problem
 
Maybe the alheimers is taking me over....but I'm pretty sure the fuel pressure on those old rangers is supposed to be much less than that.
 
My father said it was 40 to 60psi but i had my husband check it and he said it was around 30psi
 
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Seems like I remember the pressure is supposed to be 35PSI. If it is 35PSI when started cold and dies, it may not be the pumps, relay, or wiring.

If the 35PSI isn't there it could be anything related to the pumps. The fuel rail should have 35PSI in it and the pumps should get full battery voltage as I remember. The computer activates a relay which feeds battery voltage to the pumps while the engine is running.
 
IAC? What is that and were is it located.

Idle Air Control valve, aka idle air bypass, few other names for it,

It's the cylinder shaped sensor on the passenger side of the intake, on the side of the top portion, right in the middle. Has an electrical connector that faces back towards the firewall, can't miss it.

Typically they cause the engine to idle too high, and other diveability issues. Sometimes can make the engine sound like a fog horn. It's $70 for a new cheap Autozone one, so you should make sure it's the problem before replacing.

almostclueless brought up the fact that it should stay around 30-35 PSI, is it dropping before it dies?

Definitely check over vacuum routing since it's been setting.

Pull codes. Details in technical library under ECC-IV diagnotics.

Pete
 
Could also be a bad MAP sensor.

I've seen both bad MAF and MAP sensors cause what you're describing.

Rotted Vacuum hoses could be a possibility.

Fuel Injected engine fuel pressure can vary from 30-60psi. Even though normal may be 35psi. Unless something is clogged a higher pressure does seem a little weird.
 
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Idle Air Control valve, aka idle air bypass, few other names for it,

It's the cylinder shaped sensor on the passenger side of the intake, on the side of the top portion, right in the middle. Has an electrical connector that faces back towards the firewall, can't miss it.

Typically they cause the engine to idle too high, and other diveability issues. Sometimes can make the engine sound like a fog horn. It's $70 for a new cheap Autozone one, so you should make sure it's the problem before replacing.

almostclueless brought up the fact that it should stay around 30-35 PSI, is it dropping before it dies?

Definitely check over vacuum routing since it's been setting.

Pull codes. Details in technical library under ECC-IV diagnotics.

Pete

the IAC can also be cleaned in your driveway. simply unbolt the solenoid from the plunger housing, making sure to keep a hold of the o-ring. clean solenoid plunger with contact cleaner and plunger side with carb/brake cleaner.

a bad MAP will throw a code, typically a 22.

also consider that after setting so long without a continuous charge on the battery, the ECM will have to relearn itself.
 
even if it did sit for 6 years the eec will still be able to run the engine if everything else is good or good enough. Check your wiring, Make sure the fuel return line isn't clogged and the fuel pressure regulator isnt leaking gas into that little tube that goes to the intake manifold. 60 psi is way too high for a ranger of that year. Absolute max fuel pressure is about 42 psi and about 32-36 at idle. make sure that both of the fuel pumps are working. There is one in the tank and one inside the framerail under the driver's feet. See if you can get any codes with the koeo test. The instructions for running that test are in the tech library. that may point you in the direction of a problem.
 
try revving it with the throttle pedal. If it wont rev, the problem isnt likely to be the Idle Air Control valve. Opening the throttle plate with the pedal will allow sufficient air to enter the engin and let it run. Definately see if you can pull some codes. You might try lightly tapping on the outside of the IAC with the back side of a screw driver, i said LIGHTLY. it may just be stuck and require a little coaxing to operate once more, ive dont this myself at work to get one to start and run with a bad IAC. Keep us updated with as much information as you can.
 
I have checked grounds and some other things as well. I have not pulled any codes because i have no way of doing that. I did pull the injecters and they were full of gunk! Im going to install some new ones and hopefully that will fix the problem.
 

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