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Truck died, wont start ????


Goblin94

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
14
City
La Crosse WI
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hi everyone, im new to the forums and this seems to be a very good site to learn a lot of info about these trucks. Anyways I just picked up my first ranger its a 94 xlt 4x4, traded my 91 civic for it. So far i really like it except for what happened today. I put some seafoam in the tank because it has been running sluggish and doesnt seem to have the power it should. drove it for a little bit and then i sat in park and reved it to 3k and held it there for a few seconds and then i slowly raised the rpms up to 3.5k or so and then it made a loud pop almost like a backfire and then it died. It will not restart at all and it is not leaking any coolant or oil. It turns over just fine like it always has since i have owned it. checked the oil and it seems to be just fine. it is throwing a cel and i counted the blinks but it confused the heck out of me because they seemed so random( might be throwing multiple codes) I have counted the blinks on other cars in the past with no problems but this one really confused me. anyways i checked the engine over and checked the fuel pump kill switch but it still just will not start. The plugs/wires were replaced yesterday and i checked the gaps and everything prior to install and they were fine. Im thinking there might be a problem with the distributor since it was so god awfully sluggish before this happened seemed like it was loading up on fuel and not fully burning all of it. any other thoughts on what this could be?? I appreciate any help.
 
Check your plugs again. If I remember right from reading other threads on here about Seafoam, it can and will foul your plugs. Do a search on here for Seafoam, and you should find lots of threads on this. Good luck. At least your engine still turns over, some people ended up with hydro-locked engines. Course, they put the Seafoam through their vacuum system.
Also, if you want a code reader that doesn't make you count beeps, check out an Equus Innova 3145. It has an LCD display that will actually show you your code so you don't have to count beeps. I bought one specifically for this reason, and its pretty reasonable, too. I got mine for $30 at O'Reilly's. Check it out!
 
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Thank you for telling me about that, went to orileys(45min drive) and picked one up, made my life a whole lot easier. truck is throwing code 513 which is PCM internal voltage failure, it is also throwing code 10 which is not listed in my book, and code 111 which is a system pass. So is my PCM fried?? any thoughts on what this could be. thanks.
 
Assuming you have the same manual I do, at the bottom of page 27 and then on to the top of page 28, it says that code 10 is a separation code, not an error code. It separates the KOEO Self Test codes, where I'm assuming you got the code 513 and the code 111, which is the all clear for the Continuous Memory codes. Basically, for the purpose of this test, it is just a hyphen, or a backslash, or some other type of separator.
As for Code 513, since it showed up in the Self-Test portion, I would check your connections for the reader itself. Did you re-run the test? There is a good chance you may not get that code resolved until you can start your truck. One of the requirements for this test is to have your truck warmed up to operating temperatures, but since you can't start it, this isn't possible. For now, I myself wouldn't worry about that one. That's only my opinion, however, and I am not a mechanic. If anybody else out there has any ideas, throw them this way.
Did you get around to checking your plugs again? I would do that as well as reading some of the other posts about Seafoam usage. I have never used it myself, so my experience with it is nil. Good luck and let us know how you are coming along.
 
I found a little more information on this for you. Nothing specific on code 513, just some information on how the Ford system works:

"The distributor ignition system designed by Ford has two distinct configurations. The first configuration is known as the distributor mounted system, because the ICM is mounted directly on the distributor housing. The second configuration is known as a remote mount system, since the ICM is mounted on the engine or front fender apron.
The distributor used by this system is sealed and houses the CMP sensor. The distributor does not utilize vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanisms; the ignition timing is automatically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the ICM.
Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module."

Maybe this will help, maybe not, but I wanted to throw it out there.
 
Thank you for the help, I tested for spark and there was none. I had my uncle who is a ford gu ru and has worked for for for 23 years come and take a look at it. He tested for spark at the coil and distributor. I think he said there was spark at the coil, and on one side of the distributor but not the other, i think thats what he said. he called his most experienced mechanic and asked him what he thought and he immediatly said the tfi module is bad. he said all the symptoms point to this going bad, and he said ford has had problems with these for a very long time. so today i am going to go pick one up and hopefully that does the trick. I will let you know. thanks.
 
Replaced tfi module, still nothing, my uncle said something about a piece in the distributor that can go bad as well if the tfi module goes out. I think it started with an s but i cant remember what its called.
 
Could it have been the cam synchro? There are other issues with the cam synchro going bad that usually lead up to a seized engine. Courtesy of another member on here, Wicked_Sludge, here are the main events leading up to cam synchro failure:

1. the plastic bushing that the synchro shaft rides on doesn't receive sufficient lube and begins to wear out, allowing the synchro shaft to wobble.

2. the flag on the CPS end of the wobbling synchro shaft contacts the CPS, suddenly stopping the synchro shaft.

3. the sudden stopping of the synchro shaft shears off the roll pin that holds the distributor gear to the synchro shaft....or otherwise the gear itself is stripped out by the camshaft.

4. the synchro shaft is no longer powered by the engine. the oil pump, which is driven by the bottom end of the synchro shaft no longer turns and the engine receives zero oil flow.

I haven't heard of one just causing a truck not to start, but then since mine is a 92, I have never had to mess with it. Everything I've read, though, said the issue with the cam synchro will usually start with a chirping or squealing sound, similar to a belt squealing. Other than that, I'm really at a loss here. I wish you luck.
 
ill have to look into that only thing is that the motor isnt seized up, it turns over just fine like its going to start but doesnt. My uncle said the stater in the distributor is probably bad.
 
Hey, no problem. My Ranger is my baby, and I hate to hear when others are having problems with theirs. Hopefully, the stator is the only other thing you end up having to replace. Good luck! :icon_cheers:
 
Just checking in to see how this is going. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
 
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Well I went to replace the stator and i pulled the distributor and found out what the problem is, the gear at the bottom of the distributor had half the teeth stripped off. I replaced the gear and went to start it and its spittin and poping like it wants to start, but the timing must be out of wack.
 
adjusted timing, fired her up and it runs great. Now i just have to figure out why my pass side locking hub wont lock?? and why my gas gauge doesnt work.
 

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