truck bed box bolts

[91stranger]

So I have my bed pulled off to replace fuel pump and I snapped one of the bolts. The bolts are rusty and they could last another 10 years or 10 days. Anyone know of good replacements that DONT cost $8-10 each. I was thinking of just getting some Zinc coated heavy grade bolts. Anyone use anything else or have other ideas? Also not worried about drilling holes in the bed if needed.

 

[Craig0320]

I installed some grade 8 on mine. Better than the star head.

 

[91stranger]

That's what i'm thinking. Way cheaper and stronger in the long run. I have a plastic bed liner so the bolt heads wouldn't get damaged if I need to remove them down the road. hardware store, anti-seize, bed on, truck back on the road. Well minus getting a rim for the front tire. I can't believe welding it up didn't stop the leak. Welded it and added badass sealant and still leaked. Oh well.

 

[fastpakr]

For what it's worth, the bed bolts were significantly cheaper for me at a fastener shop than a hardware store (less than half the price). You need M12x1.75 bolts. I can't remember the stock length. Somewhere around 110mm. Grab some good fender washers too.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I installed some grade 8 on mine. Better than the star head.

Hex head (don't remember the grade) are what came with my PA bodylift kit.

 

[adsm08]

I got a set of Dorman replacements. They came with bolts and J-nuts. I think it was around $36 for the set.

 

[fastpakr]

That's a good point - I forgot that Dorman sells complete stock replacement bolt sets for the bed. Not a bad option. I'm seeing $60-65 for the set, though. If the u-nuts are intact, that's a lot more than just a set of bolts. Dorman 924-310.

 

[Andy D]

PO sheared 2, I sheared one of the four original that came to me. T55 x12mm bolts . 1/2 tap works real well in the 12 mm thread

Also, I kinda Think the rear frame section isn't factory. The bed to cab mounts had the bed angled back. The shackle mounts are new, the spare tire stuff is gone. I made 1 1/4 shims for the rear and used big washers top and bottom. The gap between bed and cab is good now. Still only 4 points of attachment . Bed may have to be R+R'ed at any time for whatever reasons.

 

[txgocartB3000#2]

I believe there was a post about going to the junkyard and getting the bolts and clip nuts from a F250 or F350.

You can also use some angle iron pieces to create hold down points in the bed.

The post is in one of these sections here.

Ray