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truck bed box bolts


91stranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Messages
1,806
City
Whats round on the sides and hi in the middle-OHIO
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Automatic
So I have my bed pulled off to replace fuel pump and I snapped one of the bolts. The bolts are rusty and they could last another 10 years or 10 days. Anyone know of good replacements that DONT cost $8-10 each. I was thinking of just getting some Zinc coated heavy grade bolts. Anyone use anything else or have other ideas? Also not worried about drilling holes in the bed if needed.
 
I installed some grade 8 on mine. Better than the star head.
 
That's what i'm thinking. Way cheaper and stronger in the long run. I have a plastic bed liner so the bolt heads wouldn't get damaged if I need to remove them down the road. hardware store, anti-seize, bed on, truck back on the road. Well minus getting a rim for the front tire. I can't believe welding it up didn't stop the leak. Welded it and added badass sealant and still leaked. Oh well.
 
For what it's worth, the bed bolts were significantly cheaper for me at a fastener shop than a hardware store (less than half the price). You need M12x1.75 bolts. I can't remember the stock length. Somewhere around 110mm. Grab some good fender washers too.
 
I installed some grade 8 on mine. Better than the star head.

Hex head (don't remember the grade) are what came with my PA bodylift kit.
 
I got a set of Dorman replacements. They came with bolts and J-nuts. I think it was around $36 for the set.
 
That's a good point - I forgot that Dorman sells complete stock replacement bolt sets for the bed. Not a bad option. I'm seeing $60-65 for the set, though. If the u-nuts are intact, that's a lot more than just a set of bolts. Dorman 924-310.
 
PO sheared 2, I sheared one of the four original that came to me. T55 x12mm bolts . 1/2 tap works real well in the 12 mm thread :D

Also, I kinda Think the rear frame section isn't factory. The bed to cab mounts had the bed angled back. The shackle mounts are new, the spare tire stuff is gone. I made 1 1/4 shims for the rear and used big washers top and bottom. The gap between bed and cab is good now. Still only 4 points of attachment . Bed may have to be R+R'ed at any time for whatever reasons.
 
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I believe there was a post about going to the junkyard and getting the bolts and clip nuts from a F250 or F350.

You can also use some angle iron pieces to create hold down points in the bed.

The post is in one of these sections here.

Ray
 

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