Troubleshooting Door Lock Issue

[kruss]

I've got a 2000 Mazda B4000 and am having issues with the interior door lock buttons. Specifically, when I depress the switch (lock or unlock) I can hear a single click somewhere behind the steering wheel, but the door itself doesn't lock or unlock. This is happening on both the driver side and passenger side doors. The key works fine to lock and unlock both doors. I don't have a FOB. The truck came like this, so tough for me to tell if this all happened at the same time or if a part failed separately in each door. What do you all think? Electrical? Actuator?

 

[Uncle Gump]

It sounds like the relays are being commanded by the switches (do the relays clicked from both switches?).

I think at this point I'd pull a door panel and test the connection at the lock actuator.

 

[kruss]

Technically, the relays click for 3 out of 4 switches. (Both 'lock' switches and one 'unlock' switch). I think if it was just one door I would default to it being an actuator issue, but since it's both doors, I suspect something more rogue. I'll pull a door panel as next steps if i dont get any other suggestions here. I was trying to avoid it since replacing an actuator looks like the most cumbersome of the door lock issues.

 

[sgtsandman]

While not usually a Ranger issue, it might be an issue to look at that does pop up from time to time.

Where the wires run from the door to the frame in a rubber boot, one of the wires could have broken internally, leaving the insulation intact, causing an open that is preventing your locks from working. Since it is both doors, it would be a wire that effects both doors and will help narrow down which wires to look at. A wiring diagram for your truck will help identify what color wire is what.

The repair is to cut the wire at the break and install a butt connector with sealing heat shrink. Depending on what you find, you may need to replace a section with new wire with butt connectors at each end.

It could also be a switch problem in the driver's door.

 

[kruss]

Thanks for the response. Sounds nearly impossible to track down a broken wire that appears intact . I have the wiring diagram anyways.

I don't think it's the switch because I can hear the switches triggering relays behind the steering wheel. Unless I'm missing something?

I'm leaning toward it being an actuator issue- however unlikely it is that both actuators have failed.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thanks for the response. Sounds nearly impossible to track down a broken wire that appears intact . I have the wiring diagram anyways.

I don't think it's the switch because I can hear the switches triggering relays behind the steering wheel. Unless I'm missing something?

I'm leaning toward it being an actuator issue- however unlikely it is that both actuators have failed.

Not likely but also not impossible on the actuators.

Figuring out which wire is bad, if that is the case, would be bending the wire in the boot area and make sure one doesn't bend weird. If the wire is broken internally, it will be blantantly obvious. Just focus on the ones related to the door locks.

I think someone found one bad just where it entered the door, but it has been some time since that post.

 

[kruss]

Here's a picture of what I found when I pulled the door trim. Someone has spliced in the after market actuator (blue green wires). I have no idea what to do with this, or why someone would set the wiring up this way which is clearly part of the problem

 

[sgtsandman]

Here's a picture of what I found when I pulled the door trim. Someone has spliced in the after market actuator (blue green wires). I have no idea what to do with this, or why someone would set the wiring up this way which is clearly part of the problem

It's definitely A problem if it isn't THE problem...

 

[kruss]

Yeah, that'd be my guess as well . I didn't pull the other door but 5 bucks says it's setup the same. No clear path on how to fix it.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yeah, that'd be my guess as well . I didn't pull the other door but 5 bucks says it's setup the same. No clear path on how to fix it.

See if you can find pigtails with the proper connectors to patch the wiring. If not, Advance and AutoZone sell pigtail sets with both the male and female ends to get the job done. They have the gaskets as well to make them waterproof. I just used a set to properly rewire the power port wires for my bed cap.

For splicing the wires, the appropriate sized but connectors with self sealing heat shrink will get the job done well enough unless you want to solder wire and use self sealing heat shrink instead. The latter is considered the more appropriate fix but comes with a learning curve. The first suggestion will give the purists a bit of heartburn but will work as a permanent fix and prevent water from getting into the splice.

I suggest finding the correct pigtail so you can just plug the harness into a new actuator without having to do anymore splicing in the future. Assuming you can get them.