Trouble Starting after cylinder head replacement (2004, V6, 3.0 Ranger Edge)

[Post Oak]

I have just finished replacing everything after installing new cylinder heads. Sparkplugs and wires are all connected (I've checked time and again.), but I can't get it started. Sparkplugs are in good shape; they were replaced in August 2015. No problems starting before the head replacement, so I'm sure it's something related to the reassembly process. When I turn the key, the engine makes all the normal sounds like it's trying to start, but it doesn't turn over. I'm very new to automotive mechanical processes, so I'm at a loss as to figuring out what's not right. Please advise. Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Starter motor is turning the engine?

Doesn't "turn over" is confusing, doesn't fire up might be better if that is the case.

If starter motor is working, and engine doesn't start then there are 3 things it could be.
1. No compression
2. No spark
3. No fuel

I will assume compression is OK since you didn't change timing gears, but just an assumption at this time.

No spark, easiest way to see if it is no spark or no fuel is a 50/50 test.
Get some gas or Starting fluid(ether in a spray can), remove Air tube on the intake manifold and open throttle, spray some gas or starting fluid into the intake.
Try to start engine.

If it fires up then dies, fuel is the problem
If it doesn't fire then spark is the problem

On the front of the engine down by the Crank Pulley is the Crank Position(CKP) sensor.
It needs to be connected or computer can't start spark or open fuel injectors.
CKP sensor sends a pulse that times spark and injectors, so without that pulse computer doesn't even know you are trying to start the engine.
Check its wire.

When you first turn on the key you should hear the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds, repeat that a few times to be sure you hear it.
If you don't then check the 30amp fuses in the engine fuse box.
EEC Fuse and FP Fuse are the ones to check first.

 

[Post Oak]

Sorry, by turn over, I mean it doesn't fire up.

When reinserting the camshaft position sensor, I turned it clockwise one or two turns as I pressed it down into position; I turned it because it wouldn't slid smoothly. Might me turning it have something to do with the engine not starting?

I'm not sure what it would take to adjust the timing gears. If I did, I didn't intend to. My cylinder heads are "hydraulic" according to a local machine shop, and by their recommendation and O'reilleys, I did not attempt to resynchronize the timing of the cylinders with the new head valves; they said it isn't necessary. All that to say, I tried to leave everything related to the timing gears alone.

Thank you for the advice. I will try the starting fluid in the intake and check the crank position sensor.

Thanks!

 

[RonD]

Timing chain is behind water pump area so no access to that area would be needed to R&R the heads, just making sure.
And yes the valve train is set by the cam which is in the center of the engine so wouldn't be changed by head R&R

Not sure what you mean by twisting or turning CKP sensor.
View of that sensor here: http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...ankshaft-Position-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f8036df60

Yes, do the 50/50 test and see where to start looking

 

[Post Oak]

In twisting the camshaft position sensor, I'm referring to the parts mentioned in this article: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/camshaft_position_sensor.shtml

The camshaft position sensor (CMP) is located between the cylinder heads on the cab side. It slides through a hole in the lower intake manifold and goes down into the block somewhere. But the timing chain, in my understanding is on the front of the block, near the fan.

Going to get starter fluid.

Thanks for your help!!!

 

[RonD]

Cam position sensor(CPS) is for fine tuning fuel injectors and spark advance, wouldn't cause a no start.

CKP sensor would cause a no start

CKP sensor is about the ONLY sensor that can cause a no start, maybe TPS if it failed at full 5volts.

Pretty much everything else can be unplugged and engine will still start and run, but could lack performance.

 

[Post Oak]

Alright, I sprayed starting fluid into the intake, turned the key, and nothing happened different than before.

It seems I'm not getting spark. All advice is great appreciated.

Thank you for your time!

 

[stmitch]

If you're not getting any spark at all, look over the coil pack to make sure it's all connected properly.

If you're getting spark, but not at the appropriate time, then double check to make sure the spark plug wires are routed to the correct cylinder.

If that's all good, then you've probably got the cam synchro out of time, which would cause the spark to arrive at the wrong time (too early or too late to ignite the fuel in the cylinder).

Why was the cam synchro removed for your head replacement?

 

[Post Oak]

When removing the lower intake manifold, as I recall, I do not think I could have done so without removing the camshaft position synchronizer/sensor. I have a Chilton book that I used to guide me, and the removal and installation of the cam sync did not mention anything about messing up the timing. I was careful to slide it back in place facing/pointing the same direction as it was when I took it out.

I've checked, unplugged, and rechecked the spark plugs and ignition coil, and I would say it is all fine.

So I reckon I'll do some reading on the cam sync to determine if I did everything right.

Thanks for the information!

 

[RonD]

The Cam Synchro is timed to the cam/crank, and if you are like most people you turned the crank when cleaning up the pistons while the heads were off, so at that point the cam synchro, if it was out, would be out of time when put back in.

Not sure out of time Cam sensor could cause a no start though, as it is an "add-on" for better fuel economy.

Crank position(CKP) sensor is the big Kahuna of sensors, so double check its wires and connection, it is on timing cover next to crank pulley at 10:00-11:00 position.
When this sensor is connected spark and fuel will start when crank starts to move.

You will need to time the cam synchro: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/camshaft_position_sensor.shtml

Hardest part is to get #1 TDC since there are two #1 TDC's and only one is correct.
All spark plugs removed
Turn crank manually with your finger or a compression gauge in #1 spark plug hole.
When your finger starts getting pushed out by compression or gauge starts to rise, piston is on it's compression stroke, continue to rotate crank until TDC mark is lined up with 0, that's the correct #1 TDC

 

[stmitch]

The lower intake passes around the cam synch, so it can be removed without taking the cam synch out. At least that's the case on the 3.0s I've worked on.

Either way, it's a good idea to double check it and make sure it's indexed correctly.

 

[Hammer432]

When you installed the heads did you set the valve clearances?

Remove a spark plug and put the ignition wire back on and ground the outer part of the plug and crank engine while observing plug to see if you actually have spark.

 

[Post Oak]

What does TDC stand for?

Thank you!

 

[RonD]

What does TDC stand for?

Thank you!

TDC = Top Dead Center

It references piston's travel in a cylinder, piston is at the top of the cylinder centered so turning the crank in either direction would mean piston would start going down, it is used in valve timing and spark timing, and usually for #1 cylinder, but all cylinders/pistons have a TDC.

I.E. turn crank so #1 piston is at TDC, or using a timing light to set base spark timing at 10deg BTDC(before top dead center)

In valve timing or Cam positioner timing there are 2 TDC's
Because we are usually talking about 4 stroke engines, that means the crank must turn 2 full turns for 1 full turn of the Cam or Cam position sensor.
So #1 has TDC compression stroke, and TDC exhaust stroke, 2 TDC's
For pretty much all timing needs, you want #1 TDC compression stroke