Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and This post is a bit long, but I figure the more information provided, the better chance I have at getting a specific answer. I have a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT, Standard Cab, 3.06L V6 4x4 manual transmission M5ODR1, with a BW 1354 transfer case electric shift. The truck is my only vehicle and is in very good shape in all aspects. However! I live in the Ozark mountains of Southern Missouri. Even though I rebuilt the engine last fall and had to replace the transmission due to a broken shaft, it lacks power. As in when going up and down the hills I find myself downshifting more than I would like. The situation exacerbates itself when I tow my 2000lb boat. So, I have decided to do an engine upgrade/swap.
The donor engine is a 5.0L from a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer. It has the GP40P heads. I pretty much have the firewall forward situation researched and decided on. The only caveat is that I am upgrading to a carburetor and HEI distributor because I hate computer controlled vehicles. I plan to keep the engine as close to stock horse power as possible. I figure upgrading from a 3.0L to a 5.0L is plenty good enough.
This is where the meat of the question lies. As I see it, I have two options for an affordable transmission swap. I can use a Mitsubishi FM 145/146 with the use of that adapter kit from Advanced Adapters which would allow me to retain my BW1354 transfer case thus simplifying my drive train connection issues. When I spoke to Advanced Adapters they told me, that given my parameters, the transmission should be just fine. This style of transmission seems to be hard to find, at least thus far. But, does anyone have any idea what the acceptable pound foot torque values that this transmission can handle? I have zero intentions of hot rodding, however, as with anything there could be a time I need to "stand on it" and would not want to snap the transmission in so doing. The other issue with this swap is regarding the shifter itself, I have been unable to locate one for sale, and no luck finding out if my current shifter will work.
Second option. Go with a M5ODR2 from a 1997-2004 Ford truck, modify the bolt holes and mount! Which means switching to the larger, shoe horned fit, BW 1356 transfer case with the speedometer drive and electric shift, and then struggle with the drive shaft connectability issues. I have had little luck finding solutions regarding the connections of the forward and main driveshafts when doing this conversion other than a brilliant, non descript post "you'll have to make a new driveshaft". But I really need yoke styles, numbers or something more specific in this regard. Example, my driveshaft uses an flat flange. I do know that the BW1356 is about 4 inches or so longer than the BW1354. So I do know that the rear driveshaft will have to be modified (shortened). I think this second choice would be better in a couple of ways. Stronger transmission and stronger transfer case. If anyone has any experience with either, or can point me to specific forum posts that could answer these specific questions I would certainly appreciate it. For the record, I am a grumpy Gen X-er, with 50+ years of wrenching in the automotive and aviation industries.
The donor engine is a 5.0L from a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer. It has the GP40P heads. I pretty much have the firewall forward situation researched and decided on. The only caveat is that I am upgrading to a carburetor and HEI distributor because I hate computer controlled vehicles. I plan to keep the engine as close to stock horse power as possible. I figure upgrading from a 3.0L to a 5.0L is plenty good enough.
This is where the meat of the question lies. As I see it, I have two options for an affordable transmission swap. I can use a Mitsubishi FM 145/146 with the use of that adapter kit from Advanced Adapters which would allow me to retain my BW1354 transfer case thus simplifying my drive train connection issues. When I spoke to Advanced Adapters they told me, that given my parameters, the transmission should be just fine. This style of transmission seems to be hard to find, at least thus far. But, does anyone have any idea what the acceptable pound foot torque values that this transmission can handle? I have zero intentions of hot rodding, however, as with anything there could be a time I need to "stand on it" and would not want to snap the transmission in so doing. The other issue with this swap is regarding the shifter itself, I have been unable to locate one for sale, and no luck finding out if my current shifter will work.
Second option. Go with a M5ODR2 from a 1997-2004 Ford truck, modify the bolt holes and mount! Which means switching to the larger, shoe horned fit, BW 1356 transfer case with the speedometer drive and electric shift, and then struggle with the drive shaft connectability issues. I have had little luck finding solutions regarding the connections of the forward and main driveshafts when doing this conversion other than a brilliant, non descript post "you'll have to make a new driveshaft". But I really need yoke styles, numbers or something more specific in this regard. Example, my driveshaft uses an flat flange. I do know that the BW1356 is about 4 inches or so longer than the BW1354. So I do know that the rear driveshaft will have to be modified (shortened). I think this second choice would be better in a couple of ways. Stronger transmission and stronger transfer case. If anyone has any experience with either, or can point me to specific forum posts that could answer these specific questions I would certainly appreciate it. For the record, I am a grumpy Gen X-er, with 50+ years of wrenching in the automotive and aviation industries.
