Transfer case not engaging 4 low

[Ranger Reko]

Years ago my 01 Manual Ranger 4.0l got locked into 4low when I disconnected the battery cable while the truck was engaged in 4 low. I diagnosed and was able to fix by purchasing a new ECU. Lately I haven't been able to shift the truck into 4 low. It goes from 4 hi to 2wd fine but not to 4 low and suggestions. Maybe another ECU?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Sounds more like an encoder motor issue then an ECM issue to me.

While shifting into 4 high from 2wd is possible "on the fly"... shifting into 4 low requires the vehicle to be stopped and in park or neutral to engage 4 low. Just putting it out there to ensure you aren't trying to shift into 4 low while moving...

I also moved this from the 4.0L engine forum to the transfer case forum.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Is your speedometer working correctly? Your 4WD relies on the speed sensor to detect if the vehicle is moving before it will let you shift in to 4LO.

Troubleshooting Your Automatic 4x4 Transfer Case - The Ranger Station

I found a 2001 Ford Ranger 4×4 on craigslist that the owner said was stuck in 4-wheel drive low range. 4WD Light Operation: When you turn the ignition on, the dash will briefly display the 4WD and 4WD LOW lights, … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, as said the speedometer must be at 0MPH, Clutch pedal down all the way(this is "neutral" for manual trans) and Foot on the brake pedal

If clutch switch is not working or the brake pedal switch then it will not shift to 4low

The 2001 uses a 4x4CM(control module) for 4WD

The "ECU", engine computer, is not involved with 4WD

 

[Ranger Reko]

Hey guys thanks yeah definitely at a stop I will check the speedometer to make certain it is all the way to 0 as well. Thanks for the information I will post an update. I am also going to change fluids this weekend all around and see how that helps.

 

[NealBloyd]

I have the same problem, mine stopped shifting to low, 02 ranger 3 liter edge, new brake sensor speed sensor control module shift motor switch tested ok, is there anything else, I am about to start looking for a new truck

 

[SenorNoob]

The contacts inside the motor that confirm position for the controller tend to corrode and quit working. Replacement motors are the easy button. However they can be disassembled and the contacts cleaned if the damage isn't too bad.

 

[pjtoledo]

with the shift motor removed you can manually rotate the shaft to 2L, or any other position.
this will verify the mechanical functions.
no need to depress the clutch, foot on brake, in park or whatever.
since you will be under the truck, speed at 0 is recommended. well, actually it should be mandatory.

turning the shaft only initiates the shifting process.
the shaft puts pressure on the appropriate spring(s) which in turn move the shift collars when the gears line up.

 

[NealBloyd]

with the shift motor removed you can manually rotate the shaft to 2L, or any other position.
this will verify the mechanical functions.
no need to depress the clutch, foot on brake, in park or whatever.
since you will be under the truck, speed at 0 is recommended. well, actually it should be mandatory.

turning the shaft only initiates the shifting process.
the shaft puts pressure on the appropriate spring(s) which in turn move the shift collars when the gears line up.

Yes, I can turn it by hand and I went ahead and bought a shift motor with no effect, I just realized that there is a switch on the clutch pedal with six wires on it. I have so far replaced the motor, the relay module, the brake sensors, the speed sensors(2). So what is another 40$. I guess the 900$ shift kit is looking less and less ridiculous. But I would rather put it towards a better truck

 

[NealBloyd]

I know I am missing something. It has to be in nuetral, supposedly, but as far as i can tell, there is no sensor that tells it, that it is in N. Brake down, ok, replaced both brake sensors. I am guessing that the neutral thing is a myth, it will start in gear with clutch down. Does anyone know how I can test the clutch switch?? I’m getting tired of throwing money at this stupid truck. Or does anyone have any tips on building or buying a way to shift it? Even just manually by crawling underneath. Godammit

 

[00t444e]

On a manual the clutch has to be pushed in, it has to be stopped and the brake pedal pushed. Easiest way to tell if the clutch pedal position switch works is to see if it will start without pushing the clutch.

 

[pjtoledo]

Yes, I can turn it by hand and I went ahead and bought a shift motor with no effect, I just realized that there is a switch on the clutch pedal with six wires on it. I have so far replaced the motor, the relay module, the brake sensors, the speed sensors(2). So what is another 40$. I guess the 900$ shift kit is looking less and less ridiculous. But I would rather put it towards a better truck

what happens when you turn the shaft by hand? that bypasses all the requirements and forces the shift.
that tests the mechanical integrity of the T case.

if you set the shaft at 2L 4L and it does not go to 2L 4L there is a mechanical issue inside the T case.

when everything is assembled, you shift to 2L 4L with clutch & brake pedals. then go underneath and see if the shift motor turned the shaft to 2L 4L
I'm assuming the electronics leave it in 2L when it's turned off.

EDIT: must have been asleep when I was posting last night, change all my 2L typos to 4L

 

[NealBloyd]

what happens when you turn the shaft by hand? that bypasses all the requirements and forces the shift.
that tests the mechanical integrity of the T case.

if you set the shaft at 2L and it does not go to 2L there is a mechanical issue inside the T case.

when everything is assembled, you shift to 2L with clutch & brake pedals. then go underneath and see if the shift motor turned the shaft to 2L
I'm assuming the electronics leave it in 2L when it's turned off.

Everything is working fine, it shifts from 2 to 4h no problem. And I can shift it by hand with the motor removed, feels nice and smooth, the motor doesn’t even try to shift, the relay doesn’t click. I will check to see if it will start without pushing the clutch. As far as i can tell, there is no neutral sensor switch, i am guessing that both brake and clutch need to be depressed, i have replaced everything else, shift motor and the stupid overpriced computer relay thing. Engine doesn’t start without pushing clutch. I am about ready to start looking for another truck,

 

[superj]

that means the clutch safety is good. it shouldn't start without pushing the clutch.

so the problem is it just won't go into 4lo? other than that, the truck drives fine?

 

[pjtoledo]

I managed to induce some confusion in my last post by typing 2L instead of 4L. sorry 'bout that.

OK, specific question:
with the shift motor removed, if you rotate the shaft to 4L and leave it there, leave the shift motor off, does the
transfer case go into 4L? drive it a few feet to align the gears.
if yes, does it come back out if you rotate the shaft back?