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Total electrical blackout on ranger after start attempt


I support common sense

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2025
Messages
104
City
N/A
State - Country
TN - USA
Vehicle Year
99
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
2”
Tire Size
15”
My ‘99 ranger 3.0l just blacked out on me, and I need to use it in the next few hours. I got in like normal, but as soon as I turned the key to the start I heard the solenoid click and then everything died, waited a few seconds and the theft light started flashing so I new power had returned. I turn the key to start and same thing, well after doing that several times I now have no power whatsoever. Not even the dome light. My ground is fine, I have 12.5 volts between the engine block and the battery positive. My meter is not working correctly, so I can’t test connections, but I can still read volts. My battery terminals are tight as well as the frame ground cable by the battery. I keep thinking that the starter may have shorted but I’m not sure how to determine that. Maybe it’s my main fuse?

Edit: I just noticed that when I turn the key to on, the amperage meter in the instrument cluster rises just a hair, so there is some voltage, but nothing else moves or lights up. The two large wire with the fuses between them by the power distribution box. If I measure the volt between those and the ground I get 2.5v.
 
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Battery connections would be my first place to look. I have found the ground cable at the engine/starter the culprit on several "click" complaints.

In fact I would be surprised if it wasn't battery cable connections.
 
It is not battery cable connections they are tight and I just cleaned them, I’ve already tested it, I do get power between the engine block and the positive post on the battery, I think the issue is on the solenoid, I’m not sure.
 
Do a voltage drop testing on the cables. Any resistance in the cables will cause this issue. You're dealing with high current side... one ohm of resistance will allow a meter to still get a reading or a test lamp to light but will completely fail the starting high current side... typically with an audible "click" when you advance to key start position.
 
I agree with Uncle Gump. This sounds like a loos/dirty connection somewhere.

The two large wire with the fuses between them by the power distribution box. If I measure the volt between those and the ground I get 2.5v.
Let's start with this. Your description of these wires is vague. so... Near the fuse box in the engine bay, you should have a device with a big red battery positive cable going to it. This is the starter relay (the solenoid is mounted on the side of the starter motor). Put one meter lead on this terminal, the one with several wires on it, and the other on battery negative. What voltage do you see?
 
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On the starter relay, you have 3 terminals. One that I just mentioned that has battery positive going to it. That terminal also sends power to the engine bay fuse box and to SOME of the circuits in the cab. The other large terminal there sends power to the starter motor. That should have battery voltage when you turn the key to "start". This happens because the key switch is supposed to send battery voltage the the small terminal on that relay. so, you can check and see if you have battery voltage on the small terminal when someone turns the key to the start position.
 
Next... in the Engine bay fuse box, there should be a large fuse (often 50amps) that sends power to the fuse box in the cab. If that fuse is blown, you will not be able to start the truck.
 
A wire can look perfectly fine when just looking at it but can be corroded inside or in the core, allowing voltage to travel through and continuity testing to pass but not be able to allow the amount of amperage needed to pass through. Battery cables and wires to the starter and the starter solenoid are notorious for this happening.
 
Might try throwing a charger on it for a bit or try jump starting it.
 
Thank you for all your replies, I figured it out 30 minutes after posting. It is indeed a loose connection, and I suspect it is the battery clamp. The connection between the battery terminal and clamp were fine but the wires inside that clamp were a little loose.

I knew I had power to the “little” wire, because I heard the solenoid click, but the real issue was I had 2 volts at the main positive connection on the solenoid. Well, I knew from all my diagnosing that the issue lay between the solenoid and the battery. So, I stuck the keys in the ignition, and left the door open so I knew when power would be restored from the key chime. The first thing I did was grab the main positive cable coming off the battery and immediately I heard the chime loud and clear. The only thing I noticed that moved were the wires clamped in the battery terminal, so I think that was the issue. The real issue is that I couldn’t recreate the problem. I barely moved the wires at all and it fixed it, but vigorously shaking the wires had no effect at all. I had replaced the terminal clamps for the battery a month or two ago because the old ones were nasty. I used the generic one from O’reilly’s which were well painted and meant that the connection between the wire and the clamp wasn’t great. I figure I’ll file off the paint and see if that holds better. Thank ya’ll again.
Until the next isssue!
 
Glad you got it sorted out...
 
Glad you got it fixed. If you are using these, they will eventually fail again and again and again and again and ag...

It is well worth the money to buy new cables or get better terminal clamps.

12257863_ded_45136_pri_larg.webp
 
Glad you got it fixed. If you are using these, they will eventually fail again and again and again and again and ag...

It is well worth the money to buy new cables or get better terminal clamps.

View attachment 131775
How did you know? I was using those, when I saw them I thought they would be great, do you have a better suggestion?
 

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