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torsion crank ****ed CV joints! solution help!


Blue Thumper

New Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
2
City
Batavia NY
Vehicle Year
2011
Transmission
Manual
hey guys I'm sure someone has had this problem before you get new torsion keys for a 4x4 model and crank them 3 inches above stock and naturally it binds up your CV joints and bam need to replace the front end now I'm looking for a solution to the problem i am a welder so i could just cut the front axle brackets and lower it down some however id rather not chop and grind on my nice new 2011 truck nor would i like to lose my clearance is there a solution to the problem that i may not know about without buying a new front end every month perhaps a triple universal joint drive shaft or something along those lines
 
You can fab a set of differential drop brackets to put the shafts back in line...

SVT
 
Or you could invest in (or build) a proper lift kit, instead of trying to get stuff to do what it wasn't designed to do...

Spott
 
you can't win 'em all....
when you start modifying stuff, get ready for the domino effect for sure.

I'd recommend a lift kit or just do a body lift. there's a reason body lifts are so common on the newer things
 
Yupyup! What they said. Back the torsion bars off and lift it right. Shortcuts are poor substitutes for doing things right. But hey, you've found the limits of cranking the t bars, so chalk it up to education.
 
That's unfortunate, cranking your T Bars doesn't come without its problems, I've had mine cranked up for awhile now, and haven't had any issues, but I'm replacing my suspension later on anyhow.
 
I put 3 full turns on mine. It gave me about 1 1/4" and no trouble with CV joints. They have their limits like anything else, and when those limits are pushed, things tear up.
 
Drop the diff.

Or a proper lift should have control arms, tbars, and diff drops. Cranking the tbars will make it stiff as hell too.
 
Superlift uses drop brackets that lower the differential and control arms, which in turn lifts the truck. There's a lot of geometry that goes into engineering SALA lift kits, which is why they cost so much. It's literally cheaper to SAS a SALA truck than it is to purchase the proper lift kit. Like stated, body lift, proper lift, or SAS are your options. If you still want to attempt making your own brackets, I highly suggest using the proper thickness material. Making your own suspension brackets can be done, but it needs to be done correctly, you are risking your life and the lives of those around you on the road. Do it right :icon_thumby:

SVT
 
I appreciate the idea of dropping the differential however after some closer inspection i don't see how it it possible my frame would touch the differential casing its directly below the differential any thoughts?
 

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