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2.3L ('83-'97) Tool Hunt - got myself in a bad spot '94 2.3L


ForgedCrank

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
185
City
Indianapolis, IN
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I have a very stuck timing belt crankshaft sprocket on this '94 2.3L. I've tried the steering wheel puller trick with 2 different ones, and they just keep bending. I even used hose clamps to bind the things to keep them from spreading, but they are still bending at the end and it's going to end up cracking the aluminum housing, so I can't push my luck any further with that method.

Does anyone have any other ideas on how to get this thing off? The rotunda tool is around 400 bucks in ebay money, and I can't find any aftermarket equivalent.

Are there any other voodoo spells you guys have used to get this thing off? the crank main seal is leaking and I've got this all torn apart and now I'm stuck.
If anyone is in the Indianapolis area and has the tool, I'm willing to leave a healthy deposit (enough to buy a replacement) and even some rent if I can borrow it for the day.
I don't know what else to do.
 
I want to say I've used this one before... but i don't remember any of them being seized in position.

20241010_171217.jpg


20241010_171149.jpg


Not even sure exactly the job it's intended or why I bought it.
 
A quick Google said it's a heavy duty pitman arm puller. So I'm sure i know why I bought it.
 
I want to say I've used this one before... but i don't remember any of them being seized in position.

Not even sure exactly the job it's intended or why I bought it.

You're not gonna believe this one... I got pi**ed and was going through my pile-o-junk tool drawer and found an old wiper arm puller, and I'll be damned if it didn't fit perfectly, like a glove. This thing was stuck but good and it pulled it right off with a wrench.
Man am I glad that worked... I've been a**in with this thing since yesterday. Geez.

Advanced Adjustable Wiper Arm Puller - OTUAYAUTO Battery Terminal Removal Kit


IMG_1495.JPG
 
Good deal...

I was going to work something out with you and get my puller shipped to you.
 
Good deal...

I was going to work something out with you and get my puller shipped to you.

Much appreciated. I hope others see this thread, there are a lot of people that have gone though the same thing based on my endless google searches over the past 24 hours, and that $35 dollar tool is the ticket. I don't know how much abuse it could take, but mine was not an easy pull. I had to lay on the wrench pretty good (lot of rust underneath of it) and the tool survived without any damage. It appears to be forged, but it's only meant to pull wiper arms and battery terminals, so it has minimal limits I'm sure. I remember buying this one cuz I was trying to get the wiper arms off of my sons V-Dub and it kept bending the cheap ones.
I can't tell you how happy I am to defeat that thing... it was driving me crazy like that fuel rail line that I never did get loose.
 
Glad you got it. Hopefully I can stick that trick in my memory in case I need it some day.
 
Good deal...

I was going to work something out with you and get my puller shipped to you.

One more question for you guys... is it safe to beat that seal back in as-is? I just got to thinking about it, it's aluminum with nothing to back it. It got dark on me so I had to quit for the night, and thinking always gets me into trouble. i'm wondering if it's safe to pound this back in without cracking that housing. I have a couple of heavy duty PVC 1 1/2" fittings that are perfect for driving the seal, but I'm worried about the aluminum case. I don't really want to take that cover off if I don't have to. I don't know how much force it's going to take to drive the seal in.
Thoughts?
 
If the seal is undamaged, you could try reinstalling it. Maybe smear a very light coating of rtv on it where it mates to the housing. But, if it were me, and this is a location that's a pain to work on, I would feel much more secure with a new seal.
 
One more question for you guys... is it safe to beat that seal back in as-is? I just got to thinking about it, it's aluminum with nothing to back it. It got dark on me so I had to quit for the night, and thinking always gets me into trouble. i'm wondering if it's safe to pound this back in without cracking that housing. I have a couple of heavy duty PVC 1 1/2" fittings that are perfect for driving the seal, but I'm worried about the aluminum case. I don't really want to take that cover off if I don't have to. I don't know how much force it's going to take to drive the seal in.
Thoughts?

How does the service manual say to replace it?
 
How does the service manual say to replace it?

the shop manual shows using a Ford tool (T7 4P-6150-A) to "press into place". Best I can tell, it uses a stud system to attach to the crankshaft bolt, then pushes it into place. Thats why I'm wondering if it's safe to pound on that cover, or how everyone else is doing it since that tool is probaby as rare as hens teeth

IMG_1496.JPG
 
How does the service manual say to replace it?

After thinking on it some more, I guess I'm going to take the long road, I can't risk cracking that cover pounding on it.
This "installer" is easy enough to slap together from junk... it's probably a freekin 10 dollar bolt and I need a piece of 1/4 in plate or something to make a pusher... things I don't have lying around. these are the times when not having a torch and lathe makes life more difficult.
 
I was thinking you could likely fashion up a tool and pull it in with the crank bolt.
 

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