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took my truck in for an alignment...


kunar

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well, since ive replaced just about the whole front end, i decided to take it in for an alignment. they showed me a 'before and after' sheet with toe, caster and camber figures. anyways, they didnt do anything with the caster or camber, and the toe i coulda done myself. now i suppose this is no big deal but i dont think that the caster or camber is in spec. the toe shows green or red for good or bad but caster and camber are shown in gray like they cant do anything with it. according to this sheet, camber is .5*/.5* (l/r) and caster is 1.2*/.7* so does this mean that i just guessed damn good when i put things together or does this mean that they half assed the job? does anybody know specs for either? i payed for a 3 year alignemnt so if its not right, im sure as hell going back and making them fix it.
 
I get this all the time. Unless you put in camber adjustment plates, then there's really nothing the shop can do to change that dimension. If the toe is right when the alignment is done, then yes you guessed pretty well. BUT at least you KNOW that it's right now. The alignment you paid for should give you some peace of mind. The only reason you should be going back is if you see abnormal tire wear. At that point, the shop can adjust it for you.
 
camber adjustment plates? i have in adjustable camber bushings, i assume this is along the lines youre talking about. when i said something to him, he said they usually cant adjust it. i told him i had adjustable bushings in and he said they usually have to take them out and replace them anyways. he said they may or may not be able to get mine apart in one piece, and he kinda acted like he didnt even try or pay any attention to it. i know they are not frozen up, i just replaced them about 6 months ago. i greased them when they went in, and ive been spraying them with pb blaster once or twice a month since then in anticipation of this. i dunno, i guess maybe im just being picky...
 
Yo,
I asked my local 4x4 shop about those ajustable camber bushings too. He said that he didn't like them because over half the time they get damaged during removal.

He said that he would try every size he needed to and only charge me for one set. I have found that with a RBV alignment, that the 4x4 shops tend to do a better job than a tire shop.
 
Those guys are jacking you for sure (sounds a bit like they want to steal your bushings and stick fixed ones in there instead (or the guy is ignorant of how those bushings work).

Camber should be between 0° - +0.5° (both sides) (I like to go closer to 0.5 so it zeros out as it's loaded, you're good there)
Caster angle between 3-7° (yours is way off here)
Toe between 0 - 0.25° toe-in (or about 0 - 1/8" toe in at the tires)


I would assume with the caster numbers you posted your truck's steering return-to-center is pretty weak (and probably pulls right a bit).

Also, if they can't get a D35 bushing out without damaging it, that just shows how incompetent they are :no2:
The D35 ones are by far the easiest to get out of any (unless the thing is SSOOOO rusted in there it's disintegrating or something, doesn't sound like that's the case here)
 
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I would assume with the caster numbers you posted your truck's steering return-to-center is pretty weak (and probably pulls right a bit).

holy shit, junkie! youre the man. you nailed it. thanks for your help. ill be going to another store tomorrow that will honor the 3 year alignment to see what they say. btw, my toe is set at .03*/07* for a total toe in of .10* is there anything wrong with driving it like this other than the obvious weak return to center? no handling issues or tire wear issues, right?

btw, the tech claims it doesnt pull but it does (did before and still does) pull to the right a hair.

also, i dont think the guy even wanted to mess with those bushings. he didnt touch them and acted like he didnt care. hopefully there will be someone else at the other store that will help me...
 
Those alignment bushings are not rouble at all to take out. Well not any more trouble than what you would expect them to be. Me and a buddy just pulled them last night on a spare D35. All you need is a screwdriver and a hammer to get them out, and we didnt damage them. I would have no issues at all with using them again.
 
Hey Junkie, since we both live in California and you definitely know what you're doing suspension-wise at least (lol) on these things, how about I look you up (I'll pay $) and you can help me with my alignment? This is'nt going to be for a while yet however. Thanks.




Allen
 
its hard to find a place that knows how to work on i-beams. When I put in lowering springs and replaced my coil bucket, I took it in for an alignment. They called me and told me it needed adjustable bushings....I had put adjustable bushings in when I replaced the balljoints a year prior, they ended up replacing one anyway (free of charge), and then it pulled to the right when they were done, which they claim they spent a long time trying to get it right and thats the best they could do. Luckily I only paid $39, compared to the $80 everyone else wants.
 
its hard to find a place that knows how to work on i-beams. When I put in lowering springs and replaced my coil bucket, I took it in for an alignment. They called me and told me it needed adjustable bushings....I had put adjustable bushings in when I replaced the balljoints a year prior, they ended up replacing one anyway (free of charge), and then it pulled to the right when they were done, which they claim they spent a long time trying to get it right and thats the best they could do. Luckily I only paid $39, compared to the $80 everyone else wants.

ha, i payed $110 when all was said and done. that was a 3 year alignment, 4 tire balance and a $10 off coupon (the place isnt all bad though because they gave me the coupon)

my dad has taken a couple rangers to the tireman store over by his house with good results. thats where i plan on going tomorrow.
 
is there anything wrong with driving it like this other than the obvious weak return to center? no handling issues or tire wear issues, right?
Well, the poor returnability could certainly be called a handling issue, although toe and camber are primarily what would affect tire wear (which both should be OK from what you've said). I think it'll be fine if you have to drive it like that for a bit

Hey Junkie, since we both live in California and you definitely know what you're doing suspension-wise at least (lol) on these things, how about I look you up (I'll pay $) and you can help me with my alignment? This is'nt going to be for a while yet however. Thanks.




Allen
Check your PMs
 
Well, the poor returnability could certainly be called a handling issue, although toe and camber are primarily what would affect tire wear (which both should be OK from what you've said). I think it'll be fine if you have to drive it like that for a bit
okay, thanks for your help junkie
 
if junkie dont have time i may be able to play with it if you can make it to hollister sat mar 8th...either way ...you will never have to rely on those bastards again once you see and understand whats involved....one thing about these systems is you need to adjust them periodically if you whoop on em.


or maybe...if you have time.... just meet up with junkie....club em in the head, toss em in the back and bring him to hollister with you.


come to hollister junkie....:bye:


just get in your damn buggy and get there:icon_thumby:
 
Bobby, Hollister is a LLOOOONNNNNGGGGG drive from Southern California. At least 6 hours one way from Los Angeles.

It's much closer to where I live (barely over an hour). Unfortunately, I'm going to be in Palmdale on 8 March. Sleeping; I've some observing to do that night.
 

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