To EGR or to not EGR

[bearsrngr]

OK, iv'e been working on my 302 install in my 86 extended cab. The doner is an 87 crown vic 302 w AOD and the problem I'm running into is the thick EGR spacer on the intake puts the throtle body up against the heater box. Can the spacer and EGR be eliminated or what else can be done to get clearance for the throtle body? Thanks in advance

 

[originalnitro]

If you have tailpipe sniffers up there you need to keep it. If not you can ditch it keep inmind the check engine light may come on.

 

[bearsrngr]

Sounds good, we don't have sniffers here so won't even get cats in pipes, will keep o2s though. I did find a 90 deg elbow in summit that would face the T/B forward instead of the side. Might give it a try.

If you have tailpipe sniffers up there you need to keep it. If not you can ditch it keep inmind the check engine light may come on.

 

[Teddyzee]

A 90deg will work. Without the EGR spacer, you would need one of those little (non)EGR spacers- mine is about 3/8" thick. Basically provides a mount for the throttle cable bracket. But then the Throttle body is into the fuel regulator... so I have a 1/2" spacer between the upper and lower intake...
See how one thing affects the next?
With the 90 elbow, you'll need a longer throttle cable, or Explorer or sn95 T/B, as the cable will need to be pulled in a wacky direction.

I simply sectioned the end of my heater box originally.

BTW, if you're coming close to the blower box on a pre-'95 truck, you must have the larger A/C box? A non-AC box may cure all of this for you. ('95 and later all have the same box mold, BTW)

 

[bearsrngr]

Great job

Thanks for the info, my 86 actualy has a dealer installed A/C box. I was hoping to eventualy keep the A/C as I'm not building a performance motor, at least not for now. It will be a D/D with V8 sound for the most part, just a cruiser. The crown vic motor is basicly just for moc up for now. I have a 92
F150 long block I will freshen up with minor performance mods when I'm satisfied with the fit and function. I actualy used the 150 fuel rail on the vic intake and the regulator tucks under the rear of the plennunm and the lines are at the rear as well. It's a tight fit but I'm confident it will work
Thought about using the 150 wiring and computer cause it's in much better shape than the vic but it was for a manual trans. Don't know if that would work or not with the AOD and all, so will try to patch the vic wiring.
If you havn't noticed, I'm doing this build as cheep as possible,OK I'm a tightwad. Actualy this build is like the discover card commercial
Rusty 86 ranger $0
Crown vic engine trans and wiring $0
Cost of having V8 performance in a ranger Priceless!!!
I must say I've been reading the forums a lot since I started tinkering with this build and am greatfull for the info you all provide. It will make this project
go a lot better.

 

[Teddyzee]

Sounds cool, no need to do EVERYTHING at once. As far as wiring, your trans doesn't care what computer you have, and your computer doesn't care what trans you have...

I just wanted to point out some EGR points that you may not have thought about. If you remove the EGR, the ECU give give a code "31", but does not affect driveability. But a functioning EGR will not affect power, either. I have no good reason for eliminating mine, only for a cleaner look.

Take lots of pictures...

 

[disciplerocks]

You can bypass the egr by tricking the DPFE sensor.

 

[disciplerocks]

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90610

 

[bearsrngr]

Thanks again for the info, will deffinately have to remove the EGR. I am taking pics as I go and hope to post some when the build takes more shape.
Also I'm not to good with a computer so I will have the wife help post the pics. I think I will go ahead and use the f150 harness, it looks a lot better than the patched and burned and repatched vic harness. I was told once that the M/T computer wouldn't idle properly with an auto trans in gear but find that hard to believe. Gona give it a try and se how it works.

 

[carcraft302]

I ran into one minor issue with removing the EGR spacer- I was originally going to run the heater lines in the valley between the lower intake and the valve covers on the passenger side. With the throttle body pushed back toward the lower intake the throttle cables and kick down cables get hung up in the wiring for the injectors and sensors on the passenger side of the engine. Now running heater hoses on the other side of the valve covers. Always something!

 

[bearsrngr]

o2 sensor

Ok, you guys have been a lot of help so far so now I have another question.
I'm getting ready to wire the f150 harness in and remembered the f150 only had 1 o2 sensor plumbed in a crossover pipe between the lead pipes. Will this be necessary or can it be put into just one lead pipe and still function properly? Thanks again

 

[disciplerocks]

Not sure what you are asking? You mean it only has 1 instead of 2 or you asking if you can relocate it.

 

[bearsrngr]

It only has one sensor, so it is plumbed inbetween both lead pipes in a cross pipe just before the cats. My question is will I need to use the crossover pipe or can I just plumb it into one of the lead pipes off the mannifold?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sounds good, we don't have sniffers here so won't even get cats in pipes, will keep o2s though. I did find a 90 deg elbow in summit that would face the T/B forward instead of the side. Might give it a try.

Just so you know cats are federal law if you just hollow one out and put it in the pipe you cant get busted. There is a fine if you get caught without one. The only vehicles exempt are those that came stock without it.

 

[Teddyzee]

Just put the O2 sensor a similar distance as it was factory.
My English seems to be our this morning...

Similar distance from the motor.