Tips/Must knows/Advice

[Christine_4.0xlt]

Hello, I am brand new to this forum but I visit enough that I figure I should probably join. I own a 1998 Ford Ranger 4.0L XLT 4x4 and just out of curiosity I was wondering if there's anything to be on the look out for with these trucks as well as things to know in general. I am a fairly new ranger owner so bare with me please

 

[rumblecloud]

Hi Christine! I'm pretty new as well, but everyone here has been extremely helpful in guiding me through my particular issues - with my truck that is. Your request is kinda broad, but If you have a specific problem, they'll be all over it.
My advice: It helps to have a sense of humor, both with your Ranger and this forum.

 

[Uncle Gump]

First off... welcome to TRS. We're glad to have you here...

As with all vehicles... maintenance will always be king. Fluids... filters and understanding you have a 22 year old truck and driving it accordingly will typically net you good results. These trucks commonly go well north of 200k if you can grasp this concept.

Don't skimp on replacement parts. Search out Motorcraft parts and pay a bit more... you will be tempted to save money with the lesser expensive offerings. It typically doesn't work so well in the long run.

When you have specific questions... post them up in the proper forum and there is usually someone here that will help you out.

 

[Curious Hound]

Cycle it in and out of 4wd Once a month or so to keep the shift motor exercised and switch contacts clean. Do not drive in 4wd on hard dry surfaces. Thats rough on things. Read the owner's manual. There is actually good info in there. Have fun.

 

[adsm08]

Read the owner's manual. There is actually good info in there.

Such a simple thing that is so often overlooked.

For many years I have shown people the operation of simple features of their vehicles that they couldn't figure out (literally things like turn signals, radio volume and window locks). They ask why they weren't told how to do this when they bought the vehicle, and I ask "Well did you read the owner's manual?" They claim they did and that the info wasn't there, and I then pull the book out and flip right to the page, sometimes would looking at the index first.



@Christine_4.0xlt The setup you have should be fairly stout. The clutch slave cylinder, which is inside the transmission bell housing, are a common point of failure. Difficult to replace (Well, not really difficult, time intensive and it involves lifting heavy stuff while in odd positions). If you are not mechanically inclined it may be best to pay for a shop to deal with that when it goes. Best to get a clutch and rear main crank seal installed at the same time. The OE Ford slave cylinder is still available, a little above average in price (I was quoted $90 retail earlier this year) but worth it for the quality.

If the truck is new to you I'd look at getting all the fluids replaced. Since you have a manual transmission it should be fairly easy to do most of them by yourself. Changing the transmission and transfer case fluids on that truck should only be a little more difficult that changing your oil, and all the extra difficulty comes from where the fill holes are. Most parts stores sell little hand pumps (they look like the ones for soap) that go onto the fluid bottles and you can just pump the fluid in. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS take the fill plug out before draining and fluids. This ensures that you will actually be able to put the fluids back in before you take them out. Lots of people overlook this concept and end up screwing themselves pretty good.

 

[Christine_4.0xlt]

Such a simple thing that is so often overlooked.

For many years I have shown people the operation of simple features of their vehicles that they couldn't figure out (literally things like turn signals, radio volume and window locks). They ask why they weren't told how to do this when they bought the vehicle, and I ask "Well did you read the owner's manual?" They claim they did and that the info wasn't there, and I then pull the book out and flip right to the page, sometimes would looking at the index first.



@Christine_4.0xlt The setup you have should be fairly stout. The clutch slave cylinder, which is inside the transmission bell housing, are a common point of failure. Difficult to replace (Well, not really difficult, time intensive and it involves lifting heavy stuff while in odd positions). If you are not mechanically inclined it may be best to pay for a shop to deal with that when it goes. Best to get a clutch and rear main crank seal installed at the same time. The OE Ford slave cylinder is still available, a little above average in price (I was quoted $90 retail earlier this year) but worth it for the quality.

If the truck is new to you I'd look at getting all the fluids replaced. Since you have a manual transmission it should be fairly easy to do most of them by yourself. Changing the transmission and transfer case fluids on that truck should only be a little more difficult that changing your oil, and all the extra difficulty comes from where the fill holes are. Most parts stores sell little hand pumps (they look like the ones for soap) that go onto the fluid bottles and you can just pump the fluid in. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS take the fill plug out before draining and fluids. This ensures that you will actually be able to put the fluids back in before you take them out. Lots of people overlook this concept and end up screwing themselves pretty good.

I changed all of the fluids the first week I had the truck, and I actually have a South Bend Stage 1 clutch and a new slave cylinder coming. I just didn't know if there were things on these trucks that should be absolutely remedied such as the killer dowel pin on a 6bt Cummins or the egr system on an early 6.0 powerstroke. But I do really appreciate the tips

 

[G8orFord]

You wouldn't happen to be a dog lover and go buy the nickname "Pinky", would you?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I changed all of the fluids the first week I had the truck, and I actually have a South Bend Stage 1 clutch and a new slave cylinder coming. I just didn't know if there were things on these trucks that should be absolutely remedied such as the killer dowel pin on a 6bt Cummins or the egr system on an early 6.0 powerstroke. But I do really appreciate the tips

Clutch job is pretty straightforward on these, and both the transfer case and transmission are relatively lightwieght, I usually separate em for easier removal. The clutch disconnect lines can be a lil tricky...and the retainer clip that connects the pedal to the pushrod can be brittle...Mine broke, and is now permanently safety wired together.

Theres a lot of info on the 4.0 OHV both here and other places.

Best tip I can think of is be weary of cheap parts from autozone or whatever...Try to get motorcraft or oem equivalent. Especially things like spark plugs (motorcraft or autolite only). At the least avoid Duralast and any other store brands.

 

[Christine_4.0xlt]

You wouldn't happen to be a dog lover and go buy the nickname "Pinky", would you?

Nope, I go by the nickname Mack. Christine is the trucks name if that's what your driving at

 

[Curious Hound]

I read a book about a vehicle named Christine.

Scary.

 

[Christine_4.0xlt]

I read a book about a vehicle named Christine.

Scary.

That's where the name comes from

 

[RonD]

1998 Ranger will have the 4.0l OHV engine, used from 1990 to 2000 in Rangers, very reliable, but can NOT be over heated, if temp gauge ever gets to 3/4 pull over and wait for it to cool off, or you WILL Crack a head, they have a weak spot between valve seats, so not a "maybe" a WILL

2001-2011 Rangers used the 4.0l SOHC engine, so search for info on Ranger 4.0l can get conflicting info, just FYI

1998 was first year for 3rd generation, 4x4 will have torsion bar front "springs" and SLA front axle with CV joints
Also used a Propeller joint on the front axle which will make a "clicking" noise when its wearing out

1998-2000 4x4s came with PVH(pulse vacuum hubs) this system locked the front hubs when you shifted to 4WD, this was a bad idea and became unreliable as it aged, most have been change to Manual Hubs

1998 was first year for 55psi fuel pressure, 1997 and earlier Ranger used 30psi, just FYI

Manual trans is an M5OD-R1(M5R1), it uses ATF, yes, automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission, NOT gear oil
Use Mercon V or equivalent

Rangers last, have a good rep all around,

 

[4x4junkie]

Do not use Mercon V fluid in a 1998 M5OD (or any M5OD prior to 2008), instead use what is called (specifically) "Dex/Merc" or "Multi-Vehicle ATF" fluid (it is available everywhere except a Ford dealer). This fluid is the original specification your truck calls for (Mercon) which will be stated on the bottle. Ford does maintain Mercon V is supposed to be a backward-compatible replacement for Mercon, but it is not quite the same thing. I've seen some reports of Mercon V causing these transmissions to shift hard that I would not chance it (probably due to the additive package used in Mercon V being too slippery for the transmission synchronizers to function correctly).

Also, the 4.0L OHV heads (especially those after 1992) are not near as crack-prone as those used on the 2.9L engines, however they still are to some degree less tolerant of being overheated than heads on some other engines. Best advice here is to always replace your coolant every 2-3 years (regardless of mileage), and the thermostat every 2nd or 3rd coolant change. This should keep the system in top shape so there is little to worry about (and is how I do it on my 2.9L as well).
Also, I would suggest tossing a set of new radiator & heater hoses on it if you haven't already (further cheap insurance against cooling system failure on a 22 year old vehicle).

Throw a set of manual-locking 4WD hubs on there (Rugged Ridge is a popular brand for your model year) and it should be a great reliable truck for at least another decade, likely even two decades. Like said, 200K miles is pretty much a given on these trucks, and 300K+ is very common too if maintained well.
The comment above about avoiding inferior quality replacement parts is sound advice. As said, anything Motorcraft should be good, but there are a number of good aftermarket alternatives out there too (see this thread).

Welcome to TRS

 

[19Walt93]

Mercon V is also not acceptable for transfer cases. Ford sell "transfer case" fluid for something like $12/qt- that meets the Mercon/Dexron III specs, you can buy other brands of Merc/Dex transmission fluid much cheaper.

 

[cbxer55]

As to owners manuals, I believe most know that you rarely ever get one when you buy a used vehicle. I only have once in all the years I've been driving, and that was with my Lightning, which I bought from the original owner and it was pampered. Other than that, owner's manual with a used vehicle? Don't make me laugh! Most people likely never read them and toss them in the round open top file quickly to make more room in the glove compartment for other not necessary junk.

I've got a 4.0 in a 2007 Mustang. Only problem I've had with it so far is the STUPID plastic thermostat housing. Constantly battling little teeny leaks from the damn thing. And the heater hose pipe that stands up vertical, being plastic, can't tighten it enough to prevent leaks there. I had to put a metal insert inside the thing to stop leaks from that source. Does anyone make a metal replacement for this POS part?