timing noob problems

[spdcrazy]

i know the general concept of timing, and how it works. tho i couldn't find anything about the b2 in specific, i played around and got the timing light to function. the connector on the timing light went to a green wire off the drivers wheel well. it is the same one that my tach is wired too. assuming this is correct i think i might have issues. i checked the timing with the engine cold, which i know isn't right but i wanted to get a general idea of what it was doing. dialed in at 10 exactly. so i let it warm up to about 170 (most it will do in this cold snowy weather). checked it again and it showed 45!!! could this be? played around with it some more later and it seemed to climb from 10 to 25 in a matter of 10-15 sec. i'm heading to town so i'll check it again when i come home and the eng temp should be 180-190...

thoughts?

 

[Jspafford]

Did you pull the spout connector first? Might try and inductive timing light. Much better.

 

[spdcrazy]

spout connector?


i'll research it now

 

[Big Jim M]

Without pulling the spout the engine can have as much timing as 39 or 40* advanced...which is normal.
Big JIm

 

[spdcrazy]

ok that makes sense. but i'm having a hard time finding the connector. just one wire right? grey connector? everything i have read is saying to follow the wire off the distibutor. but i only see wires that come off the TFI. is this what they are talking about?

 

[IMenriched]

ok that makes sense. but i'm having a hard time finding the connector. just one wire right? grey connector? everything i have read is saying to follow the wire off the distibutor. but i only see wires that come off the TFI. is this what they are talking about?

yes passenger side of the upper intake....about mid stream

looks like this
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?photoid=48304&width=0

 

[spdcrazy]

yes passenger side of the upper intake....about mid stream

looks like this
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?photoid=48304&width=0

hmm. i'll look again tomorrow. hopefully i can find it! also noticed my front right corner of the truck sits lower than the rest, wonder why? its a standard 4in suspension lift.....

 

[vpcoded]

Yes the sput comes off of the tfi mod it is the second wire down i belive it is yellow it will be 2 yellow wires running into a plugg that is capped. the cap acts as a jumper/briged. located passenger side near 3rd and 4 cylender injectors least that is where mine was tucked away at.

 

[spdcrazy]

great explanation! i don't remember it being there, but i hope i just over looked it! things have been done to the truck before i got it so it wouldn't surprise me if it was MIA



cross your fingers

 

[spdcrazy]

ok i found the spout connector. and when i unplug it the idle drops down quite a bit. not sure if this is normal...

also with the engine at op temp (185) and the connector connected still, the timing is reading almost 50!

then with it disconnected, i can't retard the timing light enough to get the mark to line up!

am i missing something? the signal wire im using is the green wire on the drivers side, same one i used to hook up my tach. is this right?

 

[Big Jim M]

Here's the deal

ok i found the spout connector. and when i unplug it the idle drops down quite a bit. not sure if this is normal...

also with the engine at op temp (185) and the connector connected still, the timing is reading almost 50!

then with it disconnected, i can't retard the timing light enough to get the mark to line up!

am i missing something? the signal wire im using is the green wire on the drivers side, same one i used to hook up my tach. is this right?

Ok so we know the computer is controlling the timing.. BUT the computer depends on the basic timing to be at the desired setting..
So by pulling the spout, you have effectively disconnected the computer from the dist.. With the spout OUT there is no advance to the timeing. What you see is the basic setting that the computer is relying on.
So get a piece of chalk and plainly mark the TDC and the marks after that. I'm not looking at your balancer but most have at the very least a mark at
10* BTDC .. Mark it with chalk also.
Then loosen the dist a little so you can twist it by hand but it should be HARD to twist.. If you get it too loose it will run WILD all by itself and you will be flucked!
Then start the engine with a light on the #1 plug and slowly twist the dist till the proper mark is right on the timing pointer.. Then tighten the dist down and look one more time to make sure you didn't move the dist while tightening.
Ok put the spout back in place and it is timed properly.
There is no reason to check the timing with the spout in place..
Big JIm

 

[spdcrazy]

ok my balancer already has a mark chalked out on it. its the only one i see as well. should be the 10 degree mark right?

i've tried to adjust the distributor, but i can't seem to get it to move. i have to loosen the bolt at the base of the distributor right? 1/2in one?

also, what do you mean to start the engine with the light on spark number one?

 

[Big Jim M]

If you are going to set the timing the timing light must be on the #1 spark plug/wire. When the light flashes it should make the timing mark and the timing pointer light up..
Big JIm

 

[spdcrazy]

ok got it. but i still can't adjust the light down enough to get them to match up. should i turn the distibutor untill they match up with the timing light set at 10?

 

[IMenriched]

ok got it. but i still can't adjust the light down enough to get them to match up. should i turn the distibutor untill they match up with the timing light set at 10?

make sure you're on the distributor clamp....don't recall anything else close....but just make sure you on the correct one...& yeah you prolly have to belly up there and get some light on it to make sure.

once clamp is loose...the distributor should some-what freely rotate (with some resistance)....if you are not rotated against anything. If it (the distributor) is hitting something...then you'll have to pull up the distributor and rotate it 1 tooth to get your clearance.

once loose...but yes either way, (pulling the distributor or as is) all you have to then it is line up to the 10deg...generally 1 line left of the full/tall 12deg mark.