Timing issue on a 2.3L ?

[jmcleek]

I recently got a 87 ranger with 2.3L with a blowed head gasket. Pulled the head , replaced head gasket and anything else that didn"t look good . I also replaced the timing belt and set the timing useing factory timing marks. When I set the distributer it will knot start unless it is at 25 degrees BTDC or more. Cold it will run ,shift ( stick shift) and drive like normal . after warm up it gets a fluter , then stumble tell it finaly dies. very hard to restart. After restarting it will run as fast as you want in first gear, but if you try to change gears it will die. Warm and in nuetral, if you goose it, it will bog , make noise like diesling then die. I think the crank shaft timing mark may be off, so I am in the process of making a tool for checking that with a fouler and bolt that screws into the #1 plug hole. Does anyone know how much the bolt needs to be below the plug to work? If anyone has anyother thoughts than mine please chime in.

 

[jmcleek]

After making the tool from an old plug, and checking the crank mark, it is dead on and so is the cam looking through the peap hole. maybe the TBS.is bad.?

 

[Insanejughead]

Did you ever remove the shorting plug before checking the timing?

Setting the base timing for the electronic ignition requires that you take out the shorting plug and set it at 10* BTDC.

 

[jmcleek]

Did you ever remove the shorting plug before checking the timing?

yes and the closes I could get was about 15 degrees BTDC before it would stall . I am going to check the TPS because the probems that I am haveing match some that it can cause including the difficaty in setting timing.

 

[4b316]

getting the crankshaft keyway at 12 0'clock and setting your timing marks is the correct way of setting up the marks,you can be off a whole tooth on the belt with the piston at TDC as the crank will turn almost 2 degrees with the piston at TDC,but it does sound like you have some TBS issues,motor been sitting awhile?

 

[jmcleek]

i don"t Know how long it has set but not long enough for the gas to stale.

tps is 300 ohms to 4000 ohms green wire to orange wire with no blank spots.
Is that what it shoud be ? Black is ground I think.

 

[jmcleek]

Ok, black wire is signal return .3v
orange wire refferce little under 5v
green wire signal little under 1v
when slowly going from idle to full throttle 1v to 4.8 no holes or jumps, just pogressive with throttle. seems ok

reset timing old school, with advance unpluged to 22 degrees .

 

[jmcleek]

So I tried to pull the codes with a volt meter and this is what I got...52-52-114-14 knot sure that I am reading it right 52 is power steering pressure switch falt, 114 is air charge temp falt ,14 is pip circuit failure. knot sure I got the last part right. I unplug the O2 sensor and It did run a little better ,lost the gas smell in the exhaust and the stalling after about a minuite, but still sputter if you try to give it gas to quick. O2 sensor has 3 wires. (heated o2 sensor)
41 would be a O2 failt. and 11 would be system pass. nothing after last 4.

 

[Insanejughead]

If you have a PIP code showing up, then you might want to test your distributor stator assembly. That would help explain why your sprockets and belts are in order, but still isn't firing correctly.

If you need instructions on how to do it, I can scan the page out of my '83-90 Ranger Chilton's manual.

 

[jmcleek]

If you need instructions on how to do it, I can scan the page out of my '83-90 Ranger Chilton's manual.

that would be great!
I need to readjust the tps after tinkering with it earlier I probly mest that up.

i will be changing the O2 sensor, with that much effect pobably needs changed.

 

[Insanejughead]

I like to use a digital volt meter when adjusting my TPS. I get it to right at .66v on warm idle. To check that it's perfectly fine, I switch over to my analog meter.

Don't worry about your O2 sensor until everything else is running fine. It is the last thing in the engine that anything is measured at, and your job is to make sure every single thing that happens before the oxygen sensor is working as it should.



Also, take your distributor cap off and check to see if the PIP sensor underneath the rotor and vanes is securely attached in its place. My dad's 2.9 ran like shit for a short time, but found out that the distributor pickup module (PIP) was shot to hell.

 

[jmcleek]

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I like to use a digital volt meter when adjusting my TPS. I get it to right at .66v on warm idle. To check that it's perfectly fine, I switch over to my analog meter.

So I have it set at .96- should be at .66?

Also cleared codes and cleaned battery,volt meter was picking up a charge on the plastic surface

New codes are: 52 power steering switch open; 11 system pass; 211 profile ignition pickup {pip} circuit failure .These are key on engen off

Key on engen on; 32 EVP voltage below closed limits ; 13 cannot control rpm during self test low check ;77 operator error

Cold idle about 1300 run about a minut or so, then goes into die mold, if kept rpm up tell warmup idle 800 rpm with surging.

 

[jmcleek]

Tried to reset to .66 but .93 is as good as it gets. Need to resolve the pip codes befour I can do other things.

 

[Insanejughead]

Yeah, let me know what you find out when checking/testing the stator.

 

[jmcleek]

Replaced module and pickup, learned how not to install the distributer gear ,got new gear and 1/8" drile bit. Got every thing back togather. started on first try. Ran about 45 seconds started to die ,reved till it got past that. Set idle speed a little faster. no gas smell. no black smoke. Timeing still at about 30 btdc. Resetting codes.