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time to do a topend on my 2.8


its a 74 rebuilt in 78 from what the tag said. its just confuses me it looks like one but then it has the characteristics of another. oh well as long as it works im happy. cant wait till tomorrow:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:
 
There is alot of variations of the same carb you just need to make sure you plug the heater tube port for the choke or it will be a vacuum leak and you can use manifold vacuum or ported from the carb for the advance on the distributor I prefer ported or vacuum when you give it throttle either on the choke side on the base or next to the drivers side idle adjust screw
 
ok this is what i have now.... air, fuel, and no spark. i think i grabed the wrong module at the jy.... any one know what color connector i need for the bosch distributor? hopefully i'll find the right one this weekend or the right distributor. its all done just need to find this gremlin. any help would be good. ps i think i need the green strip module.

tom
 
I believe the 2150 started in the 70s the difference between the 2100 and the 2150 is the choke if yours has the vacuum pulloff for the choke it is a 2150 the number on the carb will tell the year do you have the metal plate with the carb number on it for example E4 would be 84 C 60s D 70s E 80s the first two on all ford part numbers tell the year

Never knew that. Good to know though.
 
You need the blue grommet module with two connectors 2 wire and 4 wire are you sure you have the dizzy wired correct you need three wires 1 ground and the 2 pickup coil I dont think it matters on the coil wires as long as you have the ground correct
 
to check the coil put the timing light on the coil wire to the distributor turn the ignition on and run a jumper from the neg on the coil to ground quick touches the light should respond or if you can plug a spark plug into the coil wire and ground it it should spark when you jumper the coil - to ground.
 
well my dad cranked the truck with a spark plig in the coil wire and nothing... im thinking i have the wrong module or the module is toast. im going to go to the junk yard tomorrow and going to get a couple different module and hope fully a distributor just in case. i know i have power to the coil and the module so theres something bad. on a side note i finally got my drain plug out ... :annoyed:some one striped the head so bad i couldnt use vice grips. finally got it loose by using a chisel on the outer edge and pipe pliers to take it out. im ready to have it done every things ready except the ignition system then it will go vroom
 
:D
I don't know how long it SHOULD take - and that would depend on your skills, too - but allow at least a day. There are "Flat Rate" manuals that have time allowed for various jobs and they be a guide for you. If you are pulling the heads, I hope you do a valve job too.

I'm in California and I need the smog, so the first thing to do is make sure you will not need the factory stuff. If you don't, then pull the smog stuff because it won't function properly anyway.

wow your ranger is a 1085 model year. They really do last forever:D
 
Did you check the coil to make sure it is good first then check the dizzy 1 ground then the other two will show continuity between them and assure the rotor is spinning then depending on the colors of the module wires hook the grey/green on the module to the ground on the dizzy and the lt green to the neg on the coil.
 
oh ok... well now i have the new distributor coming in tomorrow :icon_bounceblue: with the adapter cap, cap and rotor. so tomorrows take two. plus my friend has a new module for me if mine is bad. hopefully luck is on my side.

tom
 

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