time to do a topend on my 2.8

[kimcrwbr1]

intake 014 exhaust 016 cold dont torque the egr spacer and carb just get them snug after you torque the intake manifold put it together to get it running then after you get it hot go back and retorque the manifold there is a bolt you cant get to with the carb and spacer on and you dont want to tighten them until you retorque the intake manifold and dont use rtv on the manifold gasket put some permatex in the valleys where the heads and block meet it is always where they will leak first. I never use RTV silicone especially if it touches oil. Torque the manifold in four stages center to ends pull it down slow and even to 18 ft/lbs in the tech library is all the engine specs under 2.8l

 

[kimcrwbr1]

your going duraspark use the stock coil so you dont have to put a ballast resistor in it and you can also use the stock plugs be sure and use some dielectric grease in the dist cap where the rotor spins and in the plug wires if you get to close it hurts. the stock coil will work with battery voltage if you go aftermarket you need a ballast resistor or you will burn up the coil.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

thank you for all your help. i lost my book a year ago. so all the is hard to find on the net.... at least its all down hill from here. finally found my timing marks after a half hour w/ emery cloth because some ass filled them w/ black spray paint. dose the coil use any wires from the dizzy. i forgot to look at it earlier. any ways hows life treating you?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If your coil is stock now with the original harness you just need the three from the dizzy to the module the green from the module to the neg coil the red on the module to the white from the ignition and the white from the module to the red on the ignition the 2wire oval from the stock harness is already to go just plug it into the module the colors are reverse but it is right. to check for spark plug a spark plug into the coil wire off the dizzy and crankon it while grounding the plug you should see a bright blue snap. the only tricky part is lining the #1 plug wire on the dist cap with the rotor find dtc on #1 piston the rotor should be around 10-11 oclock or if your not anal about having the wires match the dizzy cap put it together and try different plug wires with the light till you find the one that sparks on the compression on the #1 cyl and use that terminal for the firing order. to find tdc #1 cyl i put my finger in the plug hole and turned the crank with a large ratchet and on the compression stroke I put a skinny screwdriver in the plug hole and found top but you can just keep turning it till the timing mark matches up tdc with the pointer and put the rotor to where it ends up at about 11 oclock if the dist dont drop all the way down it moves two teeth form the time it hits the oil pump shaft so find 11 oclock and turn the dizzy 2 teeth to the right and click the ignition giving light pressure on the dizzy till it drops all the way down then find the mark again and see where the rotor is pointing. I did #1 on the cap for future reference on tune ups with #1 on the cap.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you want to check the spark for power the high tech way hold the plug in one hand and lean on somting metal as you crank on it if it is working correct you will want to kick my ass of course when your arm stops twitching. If you use the stock coil and spark plugs then ther is no guessing on heat range of the plugs I am using autolite single platinum but the motorcraft plugs are the best from what I hear and plan on using.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

plugs are AWSF-42C or equivalent the motorcraft are a order item if you can find them

 

[r1hatman]

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

thank you for answering my stupid questions.... i was hurting and soooo tired last night i could hardly pay attention. lol right now im waiting for my dad to bring me some non rusted feeler gauges and a propane torch mine are fubar. hes also bringing the camera to take a few pics. should have taken a before but the engine was two embarrassing. lol

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Waitin for the pics

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

ok now few last questions.... my carb dont have a port for the pcv where should i hook it up at? and where the the condenser thing go where the ground bolts to by the coil... the wire was broke off before i started the swap and now i dont know if i need it or not. its just a one wire connector. also how should i hook up the pcv valve there not a spot on the card like there was before... can i just hook it up by the brake booster vacuum?
thanks for any help in advance.

tom

p.s. it should be fully running tomorrow

 

[Big Jim M]

ok now few last questions.... my carb dont have a port for the pcv where should i hook it up at? and where the the condenser thing go where the ground bolts to by the coil... the wire was broke off before i started the swap and now i dont know if i need it or not. its just a one wire connector. also how should i hook up the pcv valve there not a spot on the card like there was before... can i just hook it up by the brake booster vacuum?
thanks for any help in advance.

tom

p.s. it should be fully running tomorrow

You can hook the pcv up with a "Y" to any constant vac source.
The condensor is just to emeninate coil noise from the radio.. Many radios don't need it anyway. But it is simply attached to anything that is grounded.
Big JIm

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The noise capacitor goes to the red wire on the coil and to ground

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

so i dont need the condenser thanks you guys are awesome.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

well i just thought it was interesting....... i think my carb is an older 2150. dose any one know what year they started making them?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I believe the 2150 started in the 70s the difference between the 2100 and the 2150 is the choke if yours has the vacuum pulloff for the choke it is a 2150 the number on the carb will tell the year do you have the metal plate with the carb number on it for example E4 would be 84 C 60s D 70s E 80s the first two on all ford part numbers tell the year