time to do a topend on my 2.8

[kimcrwbr1]

you need the spacer to plug the vacuum leak if you look on the egr spacer it dont match up with the carb the spacer is the same as the stock one and will dissipate the heat from the engine also. you will see when you look at it the one for the pinto is just a gasket the spacer has a gasket on both sides but the carb base has to be real flat to work right that is why I surfaced the carb base the ears that the studs go thru get warped and you lose vacuum around the edge and in the center on the bottom of the spacer. just dont sand the ears too far as they can break if you do when you tighten it down. let me know how it turns out

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

thanks for the tip so 14 bucks it is... damn my girl already hates the truck as it is just cause i spend more cash on it....

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea but your almost there from the sound of it are you gonna just lap the valves and put new seals in the heads or take them in and was their any special reason I just did the seals and am good there ws only two seals that resembeled good and reseting the intake manifold it now holds oil and dont blow up smoke signals every time I start it. Does your carb have the automatic choke if it does you can just use the electric choke thermostat off your feedback carb the jets out of it if yours are not #50 or smaller and the heater tube fitting for the thermostat you can plug that vacuum leak with a service valve cap from any A/C system or just find a 5/16 plug for it. Well GL and let us know how its is going good or bad

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

ya im just lapping the valves and doing seals... my 2100 has #48 jets and auto choke. will those jets work good? any ways not gettin much done today with the rain storm coming in. was hoping to get everything pressure washed and painted oh well. my intake did shine up good on a positive note.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea the 48 jets will work just fine and you can run your dizzy from the ported vacuum either on the front by the drivers idle screw or on the side of the choke at the base when your at a idle you have no vac and as you raise the rpm the distributor will advance I have my timing at 12 degrees btdc and through trial tanks of gas get the best performance vs fuel mileage I am happy with 17 mpg just be careful at first if you get real good gas mileage you dont want to run too lean and burn your valves keep the 50s handi and put them in if you have any doubt. Just got my rotortiller going need to get the garden ready for veges

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

thanks for the hint. another question how many degrees is the line after the tdc mark? i thinking the only problem i have is the 3.45 gears. i than that will be to high don't you? btw i hear ya about the garden we have to start ours soon, i need the truck to haul the manure. also need to start on my camping fire wood for this summer.... so much to do.

tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

when you go to time it spin the crank with a socket and put your finger over the #1 plug hole and when you feel the compression turn it to 10 BTDC on the pointer not the round thing if you get your face up there from underneath you will be able to read the the numbers mine says 12 degrees and each mark is 2 degrees use a white or yellow crayon to mark it first then once you get it to 10 degrees then put in the dizzy so the rotor ends up about 11 oclock so you have the room to final the timing if it dont go all the way down rotate the rotor about two teeth past wher it stops going down and click the starter or turn the crank until it fits on the oil pump and drops all the way down the find your mark again and see if the rotor is in the 11 oclock zone it usually take me a couple of times once you get that right the hard part is done put the clamp on the dizzy snug but you can still turn it. On my dizzy the screws for the adaptor one of them were stripped so i used a stainless screw with a lock nut so it wouldnt come loose so check that before you install it then you can put the cap on and plug the wires in. i mounted the module on the drivers wheelwell next to the ignition connector and the 2 wire plugs right in dont worry about the colors it is right and i spliced the green wire to the neg on the coil and i used the stock coil so it was all rired otherwise. If your putting in a round coil you will have to wire it according to the diagram in the tech section with a ballast resistor and a diode for the start circuit but I recommend the stock coil it is designed for the high volts and you can use the stock plugs also believe me it packs a punch. Stay clear of those plug wires it hurts. If you are using the ported vac off the carb for the advance there is no need to disconnect it while timing but dont hurt to while setting the base timing. I put a vacuum switch where the old computer temp sensor was on the water outlet housing to the radiator is. It gives the dizzy manofold vac advance at start up until it reaches 130 degrees and then switches to ported from the carb it makes cold starts nice I can fire it up and put it in gear and go no stalls and I have the air pump system working with the bypass valve teed off of the ported from the carb and the thermactor teed off the manifold vac I havent done so but almost sure it would pass emmissions the exhaust smells like catalist not burning oil. But all you really need is either manifold or ported vac for the dizzy your choice the rest get plugged. Oh yea i put a restrictor in a line to the vapor cannister and no longer get the fuel vapors in the engine compartment after I turn the engine off. my choke is wired to the key on wire to the coil along with the vapor can solenoid but thats all stuff you can play with after you get it dialed in. Just take your time you should be happy when your all said and done. If you hook the vapor can up it might take a while to pull the fuel out of it so give it some time it will mess with the air fuel at an idle until it evens out. Hook the vapor vent on the carb to the cannister also so you dont have those vapors floating around in there its real easy to hook up and wire I allways hated walking by my truck and smelling fuel and no longer a issue. Well started grinding on the garden and the gearbox started smoking from lack of oil so I decided to let it cool for about 18 (hrs he he) will add some lucas and hit it hard today. There is no way to seal it proper so I will keep adding oil till it pukes and yea the truck is ready to haul the compost and have a pile for the dump also too much time so little to do well you have to think these things out thorough you know. I guess I have to pop another cap and mull it over. Keep in touch ok Kim

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

ok got the heads tore down.... pressure washing them tomorrow rain or shine then warm them up in front of the fire place and spray them ford blue im trying to get the heads back on tomorrow. sad to hear about the tilling. we had a tiller go bad last year so we just got a new honda a month ago. it worked great on our drive way my brother in law had it in gear when we started it. tore up a good patch of it. hope you get yours tilled soon.
tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Get er done. We got a new tiller and went thru it twice need to get some compost and do that again yea we plan on spreading new gravel so it will work nice for knocking down the high spots then just pull a chain link fence section around with some bricks on it to level it out and compact it with my lawn tractor. You can call me if you have any Qs when ur into the wiring or timing. Did you rebuild the carb I bet ur anxious to get her running. 206-909-3308 Kim

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

well the carb is a re-manufactured that i was going to put on my maverick. on a side note its going to take longer since the valves were pretty messed up and i need to remove 3 broken bolts 2 exhaust and 1 water neck on the intake some ass wipe used red lock tight on them. i swore i was going to break more than i did. picked up my spacer too and the valve covers are now shiny blue. good to hear the garden is coming along. the rain is supposed to stop tomorrow so we'll be tilling in a week when things dry out.

tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is your t-stat in the lower hose going to the engine or on the intake going to the top of the radiator when I was looking for a different spacer for my carb I found a two piece stat housing that controls the water going out instead of the water going in engine warms up faster and runs cooler I just plugged the nipple for the bypass and it has a 1" bypass off of it just somthing you can look for if you have cooling issues my guage never goes past half any more and the oil pressure is more consistent. Just a suggestion but your this far into it and it has been a good upgrade for mine. Sorry about the bolts I have found by drilling a small pilot hole all the way thru the broke bolt then fill with PB blaster and let soak overnite then take a reverse drill bit just under the inside thread size sometimes when it gets a good bite on it will spin it right out just dont break the bit makes it a real biotch same with a easyout.
.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

ok for starters the weather channel lied it rained most of the day.... but i did get one head done and ready to go back on. its messed up im sitting here with all the parts and ready to get her done and back out on the read... not to mention some of the nice puddles that formed over the last few days. well tomorrows another day we'll have both heads done painted and broken bolts out. ntm plugs in the manifolds where the air tubes were. still need to make the egr block off plate. better news tomorrow. also thanks for the tip on the t-stat up grade i'll look at the jy next time i go.

tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea it is a two piece housing I wish I took note on the year model I got it from for the upper hose but I just tweaked the one I had and the bypass is just a 1 inch hose about 12 inches long with a 90 degree bend and just plugged the nipple out the side of the manofold. I am guessing 85 BII or ranger with A/C but dunno you will know if you see it I cant get pics to upload on photobucket anymore just computer stupid I guess.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

yaY i have the heads and exhaust back together. im adjusting the valves to marrow and bolting the intake down. hopefully she will be running and driving. just one last question.... whats the valve/ rocker gaps supposed to be? but any way im soooo excited the only part i need is new coil. i'll post pics of it tomorrow when its all together.

tom

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

am i wrong or has any one fried a dizzy module by using the stock coil from an 84? i thought some where there was a compatibility issue?