time to do a topend on my 2.8

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

since the weather is nice im going to be doing my top end gaskets and valve seals. i have all the stuff to do it and the dura spark swap. just a few questions.... how long should it take. should i remove the smog stuff (i live in northern cali where you only snog when u buy or sell). any advice would be great.

tom

 

[enginepaul]

I don't know how long it SHOULD take - and that would depend on your skills, too - but allow at least a day. There are "Flat Rate" manuals that have time allowed for various jobs and they be a guide for you. If you are pulling the heads, I hope you do a valve job too.

I'm in California and I need the smog, so the first thing to do is make sure you will not need the factory stuff. If you don't, then pull the smog stuff because it won't function properly anyway.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

give yourself a day for the ignition and wires then you can work on the carb another day. Do you have all the parts dizzy cap rotor and adaptor and the module. I got my harness from a 84 ranger 4 cyl the only vacuum you need is the distributor advance from the vacuum tree everything else gets capped except the pcv and the brake booster when you remove the harness be careful on the drivers side you want to keep the water tem and oil pressure and alternator wires intact you only need to cut a couple wires off the 8 wire rec connector by the coil. I pulled the harness out of the firewall and removed the plate from the harness to plug the hole and filled the wire hole with silicone

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Give yourself a day each for all three if your going to put new valve guide seals in it took me about three hrs and another hour or so to put new gaskets on the intake manifold and spacer just doing the duraspark first got all the vacuum and wires out of the way and I still have the air pump working using ported vac from the carb but the distributor and air will work with manofold vacuum also. If you are using the stock carb you will need to put a metering block where the feedback solenoid is so you can lean it out at high speed.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

well im doing a valve job and seals. and im using a 2100 motorcraft carb. so far i have the all the wiring pulled over to the passenger side. all the vacuum hoses and solenoids are gone and the whole air pump and hoses. tomorrow im flopping the a/c to the passenger side out of the way and pulling all of the rest off. paint and then assembly. hope no bolts break that would be a bummer. also i got my flow master today

tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you get a spacer for the carb if not get a felpro 60529 $18 and what i did was glue a sheet of 180 grit sandpaper to a flat board and slowly surfaced the base of the carb until it was good a flat made a big difference. the spacer will plug the vacuum leaks you will have if you try to use the stock one you will se when you match the old spacer to the 2100 where the throttle position sensor was. All those wires go away I just pulled it out of the firewall you want to keep the 8wire connector that plugged in by the coil and keep the water temp oil pressure and alternator wires you only need to cut a couple wire off it for the computer but dont know what wires you need for the ac. I just stripped it back to the alternator so i did not cut needed wires and I would imagine the a/c wire is in that connector also. I pulled the wires out of the plate and then put the plate back in the firewall and siliconed the hole. Did you get the wires for the dizzy I found a harness out of a 84 ranger 4 cly that worked great the only wire i had to splice was the green to the coil.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You can put a solenoid that will raise the idle when the a/c kicks on and if your pulling the heads use permatex on the intake manifold gasket where the heads meet the block in the valleys as rtv will eventually leak. And you will want to just snug the carb and spacer on at first just enough to run the engine till it gets good and hot then go back and retorque the intake manifold bolts that is if your using the stock manifold.

 

[Eric Kropp]

I would check on that "yank the smog" idea if you are in California. I think every carbureted/fuel injected gasoline engine built after 1977 needs to be smogged every 2 years in CA. from the top of the state to the bottom.

Eric

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

thanks for the info i just got done pulling it all apart and pressure washing every thing. doing the valve job tomorrow. then paint some parts and assembly wish i had a set of headers but oh well that will come soon. already have the dizzy module and wiring ready to rock. just waiting on the felpro spacer should be in soon.

btw here in lake county where i live we only need to smog when we sell a car.its been that way for a while now. plus i got the truck form my dad so i didnt even need to somg it for the transfer. i think were the only county who has it this way.

tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool keep us informed on how its going or if you have any Qs sounds like you got a handle on it.

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

ok i have a problem... whats the difference between the fel-pro 60529 and the spacer for a 78 pinto"?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I am not sure is it too big I thought the 2100 was the same as the 2150 as far as the carb base what are we looking at here

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you get the pinto spacer or the felpro

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the 60529 is the same as the stock spacer it is just not notched for the TPS on the carb

 

[84_Nor*Cal_Ranger]

i didnt get the pinto one. i was just curious why its only 4 bucks where the other is like 15 bucks. any who i didnt get much done today because we took a day trip to the coast....