2.3L ('83-'97) Time for a new clutch 96 2.3

[scotts90ranger]

Not to get too deep into semantics but they're all just shocks on a Ranger, struts are the McPherson variety that are part of the suspension commonly used on front wheel drive vehicles with the spring around the shock used for part of the pivoting motion of the spindle. If you take the shocks off a vehicle the suspension is just bouncy but if you remove the struts off of one that uses them it won't work at all...

 

[justinae]

Not to get too deep into semantics but they're all just shocks on a Ranger

Thanks for the clarification @scotts90ranger

Does anyone have a tutorial they found useful for doing the clutch job? There's plenty I found but wondering if someone had a specific one they liked. Any pro tips?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've usually just jumped in but for a first time it is intimidating... these aren't too bad to do, I'll give a quick rundown:

-get the front tires on ramps and rear on jack stands if available, 4x2's are short
-disconnect the clutch line to get it done, there is a special tool to push the white ring toward the transmission but you can work it in with a screwdriver going around the circumference to work it in even, helps to push the line in some once it gets close
-remove the rear driveline, if regular cab all you'll need is a 12mm 12pt wrench or socket if you can get one in there, a butane torch heating the bolt a little helps loosen the stock loctite, on an extended cab there'll be a carrier bearing in the middle of the shaft, should be 2 bolts holding the support hoop on so take those out then the shaft will pull out of the transmission.
-to save some mess you could drain the transmission fluid out of the trans as you're likely to spill out of the rear seal without a driveline in place, would be a good time to change the fluid anyway.
-pull the shifter boot, 4 phillips screws if I remember right then the pinch bolt on the shifter stub, just put the trans in neutral first but you can take the nut on the wedge bolt off and put it on the other side of the bolt and tighten it to pull it off, shifter should come off after the wedge bolt is out
-Now get underneath and start attacking the bellhousing bolts, a swivel head 13mm ratcheting wrench should get all of them from the bottom, other option is LONG extensions for a ratchet and a 13mm swivel socket and do it from the rear of the transmission, I do the former anymore since I have the tools...
-now support the transmission with a jack of some form, and pull the transmission crossmember
-Now the fun part of dropping the transmission, if you have a reasonable amount of upper body strength the transmission is about 70lb and can be manhandled manually, I did it when I was young and dumb but the easy way (without a transmission jack) is a couple ratchet straps over the top of the frame looped around and hooked to the bottom to support it, you need to walk the transmission back about 3" to clear the input shaft before going down

For the pilot bearing, I've heard all sorts of tricks like grease and a tight fitting dowel, white bread, an actual pilot bearing puller, nothing has worked for me and it always is a pain in the rear, I usually try a couple things that ends up with the rollers falling out then taking a dremel to the outer can until I can mangle it enough to pull out with pliers...

I think the flywheel bolt torque is 65ftlb and with some red or blue loctite

For reassembly it's about the same as taking it out.

 

[justinae]

Read the whole thing and will re-read when parts arrive. I've got almost all those tool. Thanks so much.

So even the bearing puller didn't work huh? When I did the suspension on our Subaru I remember fighting so many tight bearings. Such a pain but so satisfying when they finally relent.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's a pretty good description.^ I've always been able to side-step the pilot bearing problem cause on the 4.0 it's in the flywheel.

Should be pretty straightforward on the 2.3. The hard part on a 4.0 is the exhaust...

 

[RobWigglezz]

Disconnecting the plastic clutch line can be a pain if the white collar isn't loose and able to be moved around. If it's seized in there, focus on getting it freed up first.

Might as well replace the rear main seal if you want also.