This disturbed me a bit...

[Original_Ranger84]

So I was just cruisin through the Rogue performance website and I saw this

http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html

Apparently all rangers 93+ just sit in the middle unless they are less then 6psi... I always wondered why my gauge didn't move around after it warmed up or when I revved really high. I wonder if my oil pressure is as good as I thought...

 

[heptofite]

put in a mechanical gauge.

 

[zukirider21]

yeah i never trust stock gauges... other than the gas gauge cause thats not too important...

 

[Jspafford]

I thought everyone knew this.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

well I had assumed that they all worked cause the one in my 84 did and all of our other non ford vehicles had actual oil pressure gauges... I just figured it was like really consistent... I may do the resistor mod... or get a pod after i get money.

 

[beaujt]

how hard is it to put a mechanical gauge in?

 

[scotts90ranger]

as easy as installing a Tee where the stock gage went and connecting the hose to wherever you want the gage to be...

there's a way of bypassing a resistor in the dash, installing a sender from a late 70's ford truck and getting the stock gage to read like a regular gage, but that requires some modification

 

[rangertoy]

how hard is it to put a mechanical gauge in?

i put a dual gauge pod with a manual oil pressure gause and a electronic trans temp in mine and only took a couple hours and was fairly easy, the hardest part was finding and getting to the stock sender.

 

[Mudhound]

as easy as installing a Tee where the stock gage went and connecting the hose to wherever you want the gage to be...

there's a way of bypassing a resistor in the dash, installing a sender from a late 70's ford truck and getting the stock gage to read like a regular gage, but that requires some modification

So, how about sharing this, O one of knowledge.

I am willing to bet that the VAST majority of us would love to have working, FACTORY guage. You know, like it "should" work.

 

[AllanD]

as easy as installing a Tee where the stock gage went and connecting the hose to wherever you want the gage to be...

there's a way of bypassing a resistor in the dash, installing a sender from a late 70's ford truck and getting the stock gage to read like a regular gage, but that requires some modification

the resistor isn't in the dash it's in the oil pressure SWITCH that's used instead of an actual guage sender...

Try installing a gen2/Gen3 oil pressure switch in a gen1 with only an oil light...

There will be two positions, Bright when there is no oil pressure (engine off)
and DIM when the engine is running and making oil pressure.

ALL you need to do is install a REAL guage sender.

Get one for a non-Tach Gen1 and enjoy...


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[koda6966]

And here I've always thought mine was broken..

 

[Mudhound]

I agree with Koda6966. I always thought that the gauges in my 84 BII and 87 STX were "sticky", as they go from "0" to around just past the center of "normal" and STAY THERE. Heck, my 89 FSB does the same thing. Nice to know that so far, the gauges are working still. Yes, mech. ones are on the list of things to do.

 

[scotts90ranger]

back in the day DaveR did the swap and he removed a resistor on the circuit board on the back of the cluster, and I've seen it on another place online somewhere, I'll try searching in a bit... I haven't done it myself, I have a manual gage... I just knew the basic idea

 

[scotts90ranger]

ask and ye shal receive

 

[AllanD]

ask and ye shal receive

You are aware that's an F-150 page, Right?

As I said after I switched a 1993 4.0 engine into my truck
(an '87 STX with a Tach, thus an oil LIGHT not a guage)
The lamp had two modes, Bright and Dim

Swapping in a "Normal" pressure switch fixed the "problem"

I believe my brother converted his 1990 to a real guage by simply
swapping in the sender unit from my (non tach) 1986 Bronco2
(which had a real guage)

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