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This 2.3 has got me stumped.


Off Road SHO

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May 28, 2010
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Just picked up this 85 Ranger, 2 wheel drive 2.3 with automatic powered truck for my Son to use and we're having a problem getting it to stay running. Got an EGR code and found a defective EGR solenoid. Replaced it with used and same problem. Got temp sensor out of range codes but I don't think those would cause stalling out problems. Can't keep it running long enough to warm up, even when we rev it up off of idle.

It starts and runs fine for about 20-60 seconds then sputters out and dies. It has a full tank of gas, verified.

Fuel pressure is 25 psi while running, with the vacuum hose off the regulator (which looks new) it goes to 35 psi. That seem a little low to me. There is also what looks like a small inline filter in the high pressure line between the HP pump and the fuel rail connection. It looks to be an integral part of the hose. Is it a check valve or something.

Engine vacuum is about 16" while running.

Checked the inline cartridge fuel filter and it looks new but we're going to replace it anyway.

Did a smoke test on it and found a small crack in one of the lines near the EGR solenoid pack at the fender, fixed it, but no help.

My next guess would be something clogging the pickup screen in the tank pump pickup tube or maybe the tank pump itself.

Any ideas on where to look next? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Tom
 
I'd replace that other fuel filter, too.
 
Topher,

Thanks. There isn't one in town and the new one in Califoweria is 85 bucks. I'm going to see if I can free up the sticking piston in these units before I buy new.

I'm assuming that the lift pump is okay and not affecting the high pressure pump. I'll check that before I spend 108.00 on a new HP pump.

What is the little metal cylinder in the middle of the fuel line run between the HP pump and the fuel rail? A check valve?

Thanks again.

Tom
 
Topher,

Thanks. There isn't one in town and the new one in Califoweria is 85 bucks. I'm going to see if I can free up the sticking piston in these units before I buy new.

I'm assuming that the lift pump is okay and not affecting the high pressure pump. I'll check that before I spend 108.00 on a new HP pump.

What is the little metal cylinder in the middle of the fuel line run between the HP pump and the fuel rail? A check valve?

Thanks again.

Tom

Can you post a pic of the metal cylinder?
 
Could it be possible that..

If you're talking about the round cylinder on the fuel rail that attaches with three screws?..It is the fuel pressure regulator. On a 4cyl it actually mounts on the fuel rail..

Topher,

What is the little metal cylinder in the middle of the fuel line run between the HP pump and the fuel rail? A check valve?

Thanks again.

Tom
 
If you're talking about the round cylinder on the fuel rail that attaches with three screws?..It is the fuel pressure regulator. On a 4cyl it actually mounts on the fuel rail..

His description says it's between the high pressure pump (Which I think is mounted to the frame on his truck) and the rail, add to that that he said "metal cylinder" I think he's actually talking about the fuel filter.

62643539.gif



But since I don't own a truck from his generation, I thought I'd ask for a pic to be sure. :icon_thumby:


By the way, if this is in fact the part you're referring to, replace it. My truck is 10 years newer and when I replaced mine I had rusty gas come out of it. Truck ran WAY better afterwards. I can only imagine how bad yours it.


Edit: I just checked on rockauto.com and it looks like your truck does in fact take that type of fuel filter. We've actually got a guide in our tech library that goes through how to do it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring2008/fuel_filter_swap.htm

Start with that, it could definitely get clogged after 25 years and cause fuel starvation.
 
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Just picked up this 85 Ranger, 2 wheel drive 2.3 with automatic powered truck for my Son to use and we're having a problem getting it to stay running. Got an EGR code and found a defective EGR solenoid. Replaced it with used and same problem. Got temp sensor out of range codes but I don't think those would cause stalling out problems. Can't keep it running long enough to warm up, even when we rev it up off of idle.

It starts and runs fine for about 20-60 seconds then sputters out and dies. It has a full tank of gas, verified.

Fuel pressure is 25 psi while running, with the vacuum hose off the regulator (which looks new) it goes to 35 psi. That seem a little low to me. There is also what looks like a small inline filter in the high pressure line between the HP pump and the fuel rail connection. It looks to be an integral part of the hose. Is it a check valve or something.

Engine vacuum is about 16" while running.

Checked the inline cartridge fuel filter and it looks new but we're going to replace it anyway.

Did a smoke test on it and found a small crack in one of the lines near the EGR solenoid pack at the fender, fixed it, but no help.

My next guess would be something clogging the pickup screen in the tank pump pickup tube or maybe the tank pump itself.

Any ideas on where to look next? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Tom

try unplugging the vacuum line to the EGR valve just to eliminate that system.
 
Yes, we tried isolating the EGR to no avail. My pre-HP pump filter is a round canister type witha cartridge filter, with two lines in from the tank and two lines out to the fuel rail. Of the two that go to the rail, one of course is the feed and the other the return. On the feed line there is a little, 3/4" diameter X 1.5" long cylinder that is actually a part of the nylon fuel line with the rubber cover.

The rubber cover is just an anti abrasion shield and is not hose clamped onto the ends of this little cylinder. Maybe it a pulse dampener, but I think they usually put those close to the regulator up on the rail.

I'm putting a new cartridge filter in tomorrow and will try and get a clear pic of this little cylinder and post it. I will also get a few voltage readings at both pumps to make sure I am getting a full 12.5 volts when they are supposed to be getting it.

BTW Topher, the filter you showed in that pic is what the parts store gave us originally for this truck. Definitely not what is in there now though.

Tom
 
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1219100947.jpg


Here is a shot of that little metal canister. The rubber protector hose just loosely slips over the ends.

I put the new cartridge filter in and still the same result; starts right up and idles fine but then dies out after about 40 seconds. Still has only about 25 psi of fuel pressure at idle.

Disconnected the EGR again and plugged the vacuum line and still the same result.

After the last time that it died, it will not restart.

Time to check the lift pump's pressure, I guess.

Tom
 
Well, the lift pump is only putting out 3-4 psi but a good stream.

Blocked off the return line down stream of the regulator and the HP pump builds the fuel pressure up to 55 psi, so I guess the HP pump is okay. My next guess is the brand new looking regulator. Got another one coming from O'Reily's for 16.00. We'll see if that does the trick.

Tom
 
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Well, a new fuel pressure regulator didn't do it either. Still starts up and idles fine for about 30-40 seconds and then dies.

Any other ideas?

Could the idle air control be closing the idle air path down after 30 seconds?

Is 3-4 psi from the in-tank lift pump enough?

Thanks.

Tom
 
Well, a new fuel pressure regulator didn't do it either. Still starts up and idles fine for about 30-40 seconds and then dies.

Any other ideas?

Could the idle air control be closing the idle air path down after 30 seconds?

Is 3-4 psi from the in-tank lift pump enough?

Thanks.

Tom

well if it will keep running if you open the throttle a little bit then the IAC is a possibility, i'd try to supply it some fuel when it dies to see if you're losing fuel. i don't remember the low pressure pump specs but that seems really low
 
speaking as someone who has changed

an in-tank fuel pump..I am alittle suspect of the pressure..have you cleaned the acumulator?..how about running a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and watch the pressure as it fail?..

I think the in-tank pump is specked at a little higher than that..6-7lbs?...I was just researching a new one this week from Bronco Graveyard..and was referred to the mfg for specs...they gave me the 7lbs rating..at 40 gph...

well if it will keep running if you open the throttle a little bit then the IAC is a possibility, i'd try to supply it some fuel when it dies to see if you're losing fuel. i don't remember the low pressure pump specs but that seems really low
 
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I don't recognize that little "canister"

I have the Ford factory manuals for an "88" Ranger..could it be that someone tried to use a small fuel filter or something like that to repair a fuel line?...i don't think it belongs there. Of course like many here..i also possess a few fuel lines from the pump to the fuel rail which is a solid line...no device like that....you might consider a real splice i have the ford part numbers of repair pieces if you like..from the manual..not sure if they are available anymore..never tried..but i think good to know about..

1219100947.jpg


Here is a shot of that little metal canister. The rubber protector hose just loosely slips over the ends.

I put the new cartridge filter in and still the same result; starts right up and idles fine but then dies out after about 40 seconds. Still has only about 25 psi of fuel pressure at idle.

Disconnected the EGR again and plugged the vacuum line and still the same result.

After the last time that it died, it will not restart.

Time to check the lift pump's pressure, I guess.

Tom
 

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