Thermostat issue

[modelageek]

I used one of those 190* Fail Safe...they're great as long as you don't cook the engine...and I've only done that once (just prior to blowing my head)...

for this engine I would stay away from fail safe......one reason I keep recommending the MC is because I know it has the proper bleeder on it......some of the others don't have the proper bleeder......without the bleeder it makes it tougher to get the air out.

 

[modelageek]

I'm not sure which brand I put in, but it had the metal stands.

modelageek- Rockauto shows the pic of the motorcraft thermostat as having metal stands. Are you saying it doesn't have them?

YOU WANT THE METAL STANDS!

Ford will have the MC t-stat for about $22 #F8CZ8575AA...you can get it from rockauto for $13.22 shipped using the 5% discount code off the internet.

 

[Autto27]

the metal stands possition the thermostat at just the correct distance from the cylnder head, any modification to the stands will result in an incorrect ECT reading (sensor in the smaller tube of inlet.

 

[copracr]

YOU WANT THE METAL STANDS!

Ford will have the MC t-stat for about $22 #F8CZ8575AA...you can get it from rockauto for $13.22 shipped using the 5% discount code off the internet.

Ordered. I will report back later this week when I install it.

 

[Jimbo45]

I'm going to order one too, and fix mine the right way. Never replaced a tstat on a 2.3 before....sure looks like a lot of stuff needs to come off to get in there .

 

[copracr]

Inn the mean time I've covered 3/4 of my radiator with cardboard and the temp is up above C. Not much better, but the heater feels really good now.

This also tells me the water pump is not the culprit here, so i feel a little better about doing that thermostat again.

 

[Mark_88]

I'd a bit careful with covering the rad...that's how I cooked my $500 rebuilt head...if the outside temp rises, monitor your temp gauge closely!!!

I find it's better to only cover the driver side half on mine...reduces road spray...which is a bigger problem with my setup...and gives better heat while still allowing full cooling if the temp rises...

Modelageek: Thanks for the input...parts stores up here don't seem to carry the T-stats with the bleeders...I've asked for them but every one I've ordered over the last ten years had no bleeder...and I remember seeing them on other posts but only in the USA...

 

[copracr]

I'd a bit careful with covering the rad...that's how I cooked my $500 rebuilt head...if the outside temp rises, monitor your temp gauge closely!!!...

You got it. I was driving to work today with it covered and was eagle eyeing it cause I had no idea where it would end up. Turns out it still doesnt get up to more than a millimeter above C.

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmm...good...I know my temp gauge is wonky because I don't have the proper one for my wiring...when I took a look at it this summer I had an "Aha!"...the intake is from a 78 Mustang II and it has three prongs...my 88 harness only has two prongs...but it does work...just rarely gets over the "C"...it did though a few times...that's why I had to put in anew rad...the old one was leaking and I can't afford a new head just now...

Doesn't take much to crack them...

 

[copracr]

OK, new motorcraft t-stat is in. The old one was was just lying in the housing a little cocked. The new thermostat did lodge itself in there a lot better. Just to be sure, I tried to lodge the old one in there and it was just too loose.
Drove it an hour to work today and it heats up faster and kept climbing clear up to the bottom of the normal range. Double checked the temp with my scan tool and it was reading in the 80's (celcius).

I have to say though, this is a ridiculous design.

 

[modelageek]

OK, new motorcraft t-stat is in. The old one was was just lying in the housing a little cocked. The new thermostat did lodge itself in there a lot better. Just to be sure, I tried to lodge the old one in there and it was just too loose.
Drove it an hour to work today and it heats up faster and kept climbing clear up to the bottom of the normal range. Double checked the temp with my scan tool and it was reading in the 80's (celcius).

I have to say though, this is a ridiculous design.

Glad you go tit fixed and posted your results for other members......you should alos put carboeard over the entire front of the radiator that will help...........................for anyone reading this........Only repalce your t-stat with a Motorcraft.and get a new gasket too......

 

[copracr]

Oh yea, I should mention my gasket experience. On the first t-stat I used a paper gasket. I think it was leaking cause in the few weeks I had it in there I lost a bit of coolant. Never checked it out good though cause I knew it was coming out anyways.

So this time I found a fel-pro gasket at autozone, "sure fit" I think it was called, and it was plastic with rubber embossed in it. It looks like it will work a lot better. I checked it out after warm up and its tight with no leaks.

 

[Rackster]

Motorcraft replacements

I'm with ModelA - use MC tstat and replacement gasket. A little extra money, but the right call in my opinion.

 

[bilzy7]

I got the same "temp sitting at C" on my cluster. This only means it is reading low right? I'm only wanting to replace it if it's not going to tell me when I get too hot, which if it's right but just too low on cluster, then half way up would be an overheated engine right? I'd only go motorcraft. I only go aftermarket if I want performance parts... Which a 98 4.0 sohc is not my choice of performance wanting engines...
Just got my main brake line replaced and drivers side rear hose. Now on to thermostat and 02 sensor...

 

[Jimbo45]

I just replaced my thermostat with a MC 192 unit and used the Felpro neverleak or whatever its called $10 gasket, because mine was leaking there too, and the truck would run cold and take forever to build any heat. It warms right up now, and no leaks! I see now, why the paper gasket that the mechanic put on there just a few weeks ago didn't seal...the housing was not flat. I recommend you resurface the housing if you have a leaking housing. I did this by laying a sheet of wet dry paper on a perfectly flat work suface, and sanded it flat. I would bet even with a paper gasket mine wouldn't leak, after truing up the mating surface, and removing ALL of the old gasket from the block before reinstalling.

To the above poster; chances are, your thermostat has failed, and is staying open. If you are concerned if the problem is the sender over the t-stat, test your heater output with a thermometer. If you aren't getting 150 degrees on a freezing day, then your t-stat isn't doing its job.