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The Lone Ranger – Kage’s ’94 X-Cab Leaf SAS and Bed Bob


Unless you live around me, NO ONE will touch a driveshaft, you have to tell them it's a pto shaft for a tractor, and they are starting to deny work on those as well. Beside's I wouldnt trust there work anyhow. have had to deal with them for my work and there craftsmanship is very poor.

:icon_confused::icon_confused:

I'm no where near you and i know of 3 places off the top of my head that will touch, rebuild, retube, sleave, or build complete driveshafts to your specs....:dunno:
 
There's like... ten places in my city alone that would build a driveshaft. Pretty well any machine shop here does.
 
I'm no where near you and i know of 3 places off the top of my head that will touch, rebuild, retube, sleave, or build complete driveshafts to your specs....

Well the only machine shop in the area is "marquette machine" and they are a JOKE. if you can name somewhere around me that does shaft's let me know. there used to be a place bout and hour and a half away but they closed down. so yeah there are people that will shorten shaft's in there garage but no one balance's, resleeve's or custom build's shaft's locally.

There is only one way to have one built locally and that is to know somone that work's at one of the mine's and have them sneak your stuff in and out without getting caught. if they get caught you arnt gonna get your shaft back and they get a week's unpaid vacation so most of them wont do it. that's the only place that can broach spline's as well.
 
he must've ment just in MI.

edit:

Sorry man, you hadn't posted yet. That's what i figured once i thought it for a bit
 
If it was me, I'd get High Angle Driveline to do it. The owner's name is Jesse, and he knows his shit.
 
If it was me, I'd get High Angle Driveline to do it. The owner's name is Jesse, and he knows his shit.


I'm cheap, so that option is out :icon_twisted:

Semi-local shop to me is Driveshafts Unlimited in Arnold MO they quoted me:
$80 to shorten a shaft
$125-140 to lengthen a shaft (dependant on the tube diameter)
Or they can build my shafts for about $375 a pop.

They will also balance shafts for $35 that I cobble together from OEM stuff. That is provided that I can get them aligned good enough to balance out (Shouldn't be a problem if I can find material to sleeve it with).

As a side note, I had found a Dana PDF on the various OEM drive shafts based on U joint series size. Unfortuately, its a very short list of OEM Drive shafts that are long enough to shorten.

When I get it all done, I'll post up what I've done.
 
yeah, he can get expensive if you go crazy. If you stay away from his oh-so-tempting CV joints, his prices are about the same as you just listed, so i say go with DSU if they are semi local.
 
I made my own, trued it with a indicator on the truck before I welded it and I get not vibrations that I can tell are coming from that.

D&R Drivlines in MI does a good job and affordable...
 
here's those pictures you wanted....

27b7e479.jpg

e872d5db.jpg

e76977b9.jpg


here's what it was with the bed on.

IMG_0834.jpg

IMG_0835.jpg

IMG_1200.jpg


thought i had some better pictures but cant seem to find them
 
I made my own, trued it with a indicator on the truck before I welded it and I get not vibrations that I can tell are coming from that....
That's the plan at this point. Plus it gives me an excuse to play machinist again (I kinda miss diong that).

here's those pictures you wanted...thought i had some better pictures but cant seem to find them

Thank you very much! And man, that's a tight fit in there!

Did you ever have any problems with the paint trying to burn around where the exhaust went through the bed?

Thanks again!
 
Thank you very much! And man, that's a tight fit in there!

Did you ever have any problems with the paint trying to burn around where the exhaust went through the bed?

Thanks again!

its deffinantly tight in there...

from the lower body line down i had the truck bed liner which i never had any problems...never a bubble or flaking around it
 
Well I finally got some notable progress done today with the fuel system, I’ll get a real post up later on. I managed to score a few goodies from the boneyard:
FinialTankplacement007.jpg


I needed some valve covers as mine have some pinhole rust in them, which is making a mess of things. The drive shaft is from an XJ (Jeep Cherokee) so It’ll be a doner for either the front or rear. The bump stops came off some Isuzu Rodeo’s.

Question for everyone, is there some place where one can buy Yoke’s for the 1354’s? I’ve seen a few swaps where you take a front yoke from a 1354 and put it on the rear to get rid of the flange setup. This is desirable for me as I’ve got a lot more CV joints floating around that I can use with a Yoke setup instead of a flange.

I also got around to washing of the DD, I liked this pic so I’m going to share it ;-)

FinialTankplacement009.jpg


I need to run my fuel lines, and figure out an exhaust and I’ll be able to start the truck again. I still need to get the DS’s done as well as the brakes and steering. The list is getting smaller for making it drivable!
 
Ebay. Find out exactly what yoke you need, then do a search for it.

edit:

That sounded a lot ruder than it was meant to be. lol

When i was looking for 1330 yokes for my 9", Ebay had a SHITTON of them.
 
Ebay. Find out exactly what yoke you need, then do a search for it.

edit:

That sounded a lot ruder than it was meant to be. lol

When i was looking for 1330 yokes for my 9", Ebay had a SHITTON of them.

:thefinger:

On a more serious note, I'm having a heck of a time finding any information on the front Yoke of the BW 1354's. I konw that one can take the front yoke from the 1354 and slap it in place of the rear flange on the 1354. I'm just having trouble locating a 1354 yoke (struck out at the junk yard this morning).

The 1354 front yoke is a 1310 joint, but I've got no idea what the spline count (or size) is. Granted I could just pull off the yoke I have on the front of my 1354, but that bugger is in there! So I'm hoping that the internet has my answer out there some where.
 
mine is the same front and back....
 

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