The Deuce

[Josh40601]

i see that snowracer was out with ya. hows he liking the truck after all the work?

 

[Bennybooster]

I have violent shaking through the steering wheel, shifter and a lil in the body at about 35-40 mph, then it stops, i think its my swampers (their un balanced) but i noticed if theres more weight in the front its not as bad i.e. going down hill, or brakeing, so is it only cause there non balanced or am I lookin at another problem?

 

[railman]

I have violent shaking through the steering wheel, shifter and a lil in the body at about 35-40 mph, then it stops, i think its my swampers (their un balanced) but i noticed if theres more weight in the front its not as bad i.e. going down hill, or brakeing, so is it only cause there non balanced or am I lookin at another problem?

i would definately say the unbalanced tires.....

and the 2 piece rear shaft if ya haven't done anything to it....

l8r, John

 

[Josh40601]

I agree with Railman, unbalanced, cupped, badly worn tires will cause shaking, but it usually doesnt go away. Once you get up to freeway speeds (65-80) it gets ALOT worse. The 03 red ranger im working on has this problem.


it could also be the center support bearing in the drive shaft. My 94 had this problem, and i remember the truck would shake in first and second gear, but by the time i was in 3rd, it was fine. I can't remember if the steering wheel shook or if it got better or worse when braking.

 

[Andres629]

i see that snowracer was out with ya. hows he liking the truck after all the work?

Man, I love that 7.3 deez in there. So awesome.

 

[Josh40601]

i love the whole rig, well other than the boggers. I've never liked those tires

 

[Andres629]

Well yeah the whole rig is sweet, but the fact that he kept the heavy 7.3 and still kills it is awesome. Minus the Boggers... no lateral traction.

 

[BONES]

The Green Machine is built on a FS Blazer chassis, totally street legal too, inspected and registered as "2010 Ubuilt". Warmed up carburated sbc, sm465/np205 sitting on 12b/d44 but he's in the process of building 1tons (d60/14bFF)for it. It's sitting on 38" TSL SX and stock height springs, weighs in at 5600lbs. When the 1tons go in he wants to step up to 40-42 Swampers.

Snowracer has been happy with his rig, aside from it's lack of power (his words) , he bent a front shock last trip and now it has some weird noises coming from one of the 2 tcases too.

My 38" TSL's have less than 2000KMs on them, I'm really hoping the balancer smooths them out. We will see.

 

[BONES]

Few shots from yesterdays run, wicked day!!

The vid too.

 

[Josh40601]

btw, what all do you have done to the front axle?

 

[93_RangerSC]

damn!that looks perdy fun that jeep looked like she was bout to start float in that one picture

 

[BONES]

Funny it looked like it did float for a few seconds when he first entered that small lake, then the door seals let enough water in to settle on the bottom and he started moving again, lol. Was cool to watch and fun to try myself.

My front axle is a 1976 f100 hi pinion d44, 3.50 gears, Yukon mini spool, stock axles, Spicer u-joints and a stock 1976 Spicer lock out hub on the driver side and a 91Ford f150 lock out hub on the passenger side. I also deleted the disk brake dust shields, I totally rebuilt it the summer before this, new balljoints, wheel bearings, seals, tie rods, rotors, calipers, u joints and all that jazz, but it's pretty much stock and hasn't broken anything yet.

I have the 4.0L swapped in and I'm an aggressive driver off road, heavy on the throttle but not when turning tight, I try and take it easy in tight turning situations. We don't really have much for hi-traction wheeling around here, mostly dirt/mud/sand/logs/roots/gravel/moss covered boulders. I think this is why my basically stock spooled d44 is surviving with 38's and a heavy right foot.

Oh and I painted it with bright blue Krylon caliper paint. Still has the stock C bushings holding the suspension to the axle too. She's holding strong, so far so good, knock on wood!

The rear 9" is 31 spline from an 80 f150 4wd, 3.50 gears, World American mini spool and all stock otherwise.

Here's some neat specs for ya!

Both axles are 65" wms to wms.

She's 79" wide "outside tire to tire" and stands 77" tall at the roof at 'street' tire pressure, has a 98" wheelbase and is 16 feet from tip to tail (front tube to spare tire) and weighs in at 4200lbs loaded for the trail without passengers.

My 4leaker is from a 92 Explorer that had 357,000kms on it when I swapped it in, prolly put another 15,000kms on it since the swap. It's ticking worse and worse, now she smokes too, smoking is getting worse and worse now too. Goes through a half a ltr of oil per tank of fuel, lol, partly from an oil pan leak but mostly from smoking. It has all kinds of additives in it now for ticking and smoking. lol I'm thinking of changing the oil out for 15w40 from the 10w30 I have in there now. I have a can of V8 engine restore in it, a ltr of Lucas, 500ml can of STP topend and she still ticks and smokes, lol. I shouldn't even say "TICKS" more like "CLACKS", haha. Just waiting for something to let go now, haha.

Once this engine finally dies, she goes into the shop for the FI 5.0L/C4 swap!!

I was thinking about buying that 11.5" adapter from Duff for mating the C4 to the 1350 in place of the fm145, but since then I now have another 1350 and a 1354e, so I'm now considering doing a doubler. Since the C4/1350 set-up is 11.5" shorter than my fm146/1350 combo, I could gain another set of low gears for roughly the price of that Duff adapter. Depending on the availability of a doubler stub shaft. I'll build the adapter but would like get a one piece spud shaft instead of welding one up.

If I'm lucky I may even be able to use my existing drive shafts without any length changes to them, hope I'm lucky as that could save me time and money.

I'll still need to locate a C5 tail housing and output shaft to install in my C4 too, these old BII parts are extremely hard to find around here, anyone have said parts kicking around they wouldn't mind selling to me for this swap?? Need the 4wd BII/Ranger C5 tail housing and output shaft.

Also does anyone know where I can buy a stub/spud shaft to make my doubler halves mate?? --BW1350 Doubler output to BW 1350 tcase input...

 

[Josh40601]

are you running the stock steering box and pump? I'm running 35's and thinking about getting a lincoln locker for the front, but don't know how bad it is going to be to steer it without hydrolic help

 

[Andres629]

Whoa, that's a soupy mess!

 

[BONES]

are you running the stock steering box and pump? I'm running 35's and thinking about getting a lincoln locker for the front, but don't know how bad it is going to be to steer it without hydrolic help

I am running 92 Explorer steering box, pump and column, unmodified. I can turn the wheel sitting still with one hand, locked with 38's isn't difficult at all to steer on or off road in 99% of the situations I have encountered. One time I had trouble steering but I had a front tire wedged between 2 logs, I hit the throttle and tried to crawl out from between the logs and once the tires spun it turned no problem and climbed on top of the logs lickity split! Actually I have installed a suicide knob on the steering wheel for ease of steering, no more hand over hand, just spin that knob around.

Now I have heard very mixed results as to steering with the front locked on the stock rbv steering system, mine is great, some others not so much, I have even heard of guys needing hydro assist with locked front and 35's when I can steer 38's and locked front no problems.

I was looking at the 91 f150 steering box the other day and it appears to be identical without actually having them side by side, I could be wrong tho, looks can be deceiving, but I bet if your system can't handle it, swapping on another box would be cheaper than hydro assist. Even if it is different the rag joint and tie rod are the same so it's just a matter of making it bolt to the frame.

A good indication if your steering will be effected is if you already have problems with increased steering effort at all in any situation, mine had absolutely no problems steering 35's any where, even with the side of the tire against immovable objects or buried deep in a rut, she steered out without effort, even pushed the front of the rig sideways when I was against an immovable log sitting still. I turned the steering wheel and it slide over away from the log with little effort, I was on muddy ground mind you, but steered never the less.