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Testing Ignition Coil


I'm not sure how that relates to an ignition problem. But there may be more than one unrelated issue. You're right though that I said no fuel would get into the cylinders after I said remove the plugs - so complete understanding of the process is lacking. As for evaporation from the intake, that would be slowed down when the throttle plate was closed. Maybe holding open the throttle plate overnight would help.

Here is a comment from another forum on this:
"I agree with Rezinn. I had leaky injectors and I confirmed that by pulling the plenum and runners off, popping the fuel rail up so that the injectors are clear of the manifold (use of a small wooded block to support the rail assembly is helpful), then put paper under each injector and prime the pump (turn the key on - DO NOT START!). I had gas instantly on 7 of 8 injectors, with a couple actually pooling on the paper - not good!!

The symptoms... really hard starting after the car sat for more than 10 minutes (except for the very first cold start of the day - always started first crank). The gas leaks down into the sylinders and floods them - if I restarted within a few minutes (like when gassing up) it would start OK, but if it sat for any length of time it had to crank and crank - sometimes I would floor it to clear the flooded condition. Had the injectors rebuilt and it starts good all the time."

i guess i didn't notice that he said it was running bad on startup for 3 minutes.
 
It doesnt run near that bad and its not hard to start. Always starts on first crank. I did get codes P0171 and P0174. (Bank A and B running lean.)

Can anyone post or send a link to detailed instructions on testing the ignition coil before I actually swap it? I have a meter, just wondering what I need to do exactly.

**I got the new codes about a day after changing wires and plugs, but have seen them in the past.
 
if fuel was leaking into the cylinders with would not stay there, it would leak down into the crankcase through the rings.

OP- it could be an ignition coil but it could also be the fuel system going lean.. does it miss under ANY load or only in a high gear and low rpm?

Mostly I notice it in around 3rd and low RPM 2k-ish. If its under a load and RPM's are 3k+ it doesnt miss.
 
What does the cam syncro sound like when its going bad. I hear a whining noise, not really a chirp as others say. You can hear it in the cab, but barely when you get out.
 
Replaced ignition coil last night. Truck is now idling smooth and havent had any misses in gear. Feels like it is shifting easier as well.
 
I have a 04 Ranger with the 3L V6.

The CEL came on and I pulled the codes: P0301 and P0316

I am thinking that it could possibly be the ignition coil. I was wondering what the correct way to test this is and what numbers I should get while testing to know if it is indeed the coil.

If anyone has any other ideas of what could be causing these codes please chime in.

Thanks in advance.

My brother gets the same codes 2 months ago. He uses ohmmeter to diagnose the problem and it ended up being a bad coil.
 
Last edited:
Is the coil grounded good take it off and clean it good check the connectors and wires also.

Coilpacks aren't grounded. The primary connector has 12V that goes to all 3 coils, and and the 2nd primary terminal
for each of the 3 coils goes back to the PCM to fire the coil.
The terminals for the secondaries go to a plug in each bank.
 

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