t5 cable vs hydro

[dcwroth]

Have a 86 ranger v8 aod. I have pulled that motor and installing a 5.0fi with a t5. Have searched the forums and found quite a bit about the hydro system but very little on fitting a cable? The hydrolic system seemed to be a pain in the a## to bleed. Any one got opinions?

 

[fordbrian333]

its not horribleeee, but if your looking for something you want to just set and forget and not having to worry about adjusting it the hydraulic is the way to go, cable if youd just have to adjust your self

 

[Iron Ranger]

Hydro's not a pain at all to bleed. Biggest problem I had was finding one that had a long enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch and fully re-engage it.

Then mounting it and bleeding it was the easy part(of course, a 2nd person is needed to bleed it)

 

[Mac]

Hydro's not a pain at all to bleed. Biggest problem I had was finding one that had a long enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch and fully re-engage it.

Then mounting it and bleeding it was the easy part(of course, a 2nd person is needed to bleed it)

And what slave and master did you use?
Dave

 

[pillen140]

my mustang has a cable... and i love it. less stuff to go wrong is better in my books.

 

[dcwroth]

That was my question exactly! What did you use? I was thinking about abapting a bbk type with a fire wall adjustable cable, I just did one on a 65 mustang and it work great, Thanks, Don

 

[Iron Ranger]

And what slave and master did you use?
Dave

It's from a Ford Probe. Tiny little guy, costs $17 I believe.


I used this:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NNC37829_0222046721&An=599001+101992+50026+2026027

But I see you could use this too, easier to install than what I used:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NNC37902_0222046717&An=599001+101992+50026+2026027

As far as the master goes, I just re-used my factory '92 unit.

 

[Mac]

Thanks Iron Ranger but none of the NAPA links ever work, not just yours'.
Dave

 

[Iron Ranger]

Thanks Iron Ranger but none of the NAPA links ever work, not just yours'.
Dave

OK. Lemme try this way:


This is what I used, costs $15 or so:

This is what you could also use, I believe. Costs $17:

I just replaced the shaft with a 3/8" bolt long enough to go through the fork and welded the stop nut at the right location.

Here is my end result:

Works fantastic!

 

[dcwroth]

I dismatled the donor mustang last night(will post pictures later maybe on a new thread) and I am going to attempt a cable transplant. Thanks for all the help, Don

 

[Mac]

Don, I know several have tried the cable, just couldn't find the links. Several have also just given up with the cable. The new Mustangs use the hydraulic set-up also. Good luck and get back and let us know how it's going. Feed back always helps.
Dave

 

[The Weasel]

So if I understand correctly some of the slave cylinders from the rangers down move the arm enough to completely engage and disengage the clutch? I am at this point on my swap and am going to try to get the clutch hooked up this weekend. I swapped the entire clutch and brake pedal assembly from a 86 rager into my truck. I also have the master cylinder and slave cylinder from the 86. I am going to try to use these parts if possible and would appreciate any input on what has and hasen't worked.

 

[Teddyzee]

I used an '83/'84 Ranger diesel slave, '89 Ranger 2.9 Master(it's 7/8" bore).

 

[The Weasel]

Thanks for the info. So I got a little bit more confused with it today. The arm has to be moved forward to press on the throwout bearing. The slave cylider seem to be spring loaded. If i mounted the slave cylinder behind the arm to push it forward how will it return to its retracted position to keep the arm from wearing out the throwout bearing. Will the fluid created a vacuum when the clutch pedal is relesed?

 

[Teddyzee]

The pressure plate will push it back where it needs to be.

There is no resistance in the master-slave relationship. They simply offset each other, depending on travel of the rod and bore of the piston.

My slave, and most others who have done this, is pushing on the clutch fork with about 2" or more of preload. This is done using adjustible threaded rod as the rod in the slave. It's spring loaded, but not nearly enough to accomplish this.