T-case stuck on tranny

[NEpilot]

Hello everyone; long time lurker who has a serious problem

I can't get the T-case off of the tranny on my 95' 3.0 4x4 Ranger.

I have removed the front and rear drive shafts, unplugged everything, and took the 5 bolts out (two on the top, one on each side, and one in front of the bottom transmission mount). But the damn case will not come off; I have jacked things up every which way and even resorted to prying a little but most I can get is about a 1/16 gap. I just don't know what else to do; I can't get the thing off.

Any tips?

-Chris

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Its stuck on the alignment dowel pin.....keep wiggling/ and prying it will give eventually.

 

[Sampson]

x2 I used screw drivers and pry bars to seperate it. I would do a little on one side the go to the other side then the bottum and just keep going around. I was able to wiggle it once I got it out some.

 

[88_Eddie]

i hit mine in a few places with a 3lb mallet and used a pry bar, they have RTV type stuff from the factory, so it kinda acts like a glue and then you have the alignment pins as well

 

[kennykenny]

There is little 'tabs' on both sides to fit a pry bar in, they always work for me.

 

[NEpilot]

I had to give up the attempt this weekend; I figured if I didn't have the tranny out by noon today I had to put it back together so I ensure I have it for work next week. I verified it is stuck on the dowel pin. There just isn't much room to hit in the area of the dowel pin; guess I will just have to pry harder next week. I'm always nervous on aluminum.

I sprayed everything with penetrating oil and really soaked that dowel pin hole. Figure I will take next friday off from work and have another go. I can also count on busting the exhaust flanges and there is no way in hell they are going to unbolt

Thanks for the info; I'll post more next week when I try this project again. I just can't bring myself to pay 1000 bucks to have a garage do the job.

I was hoping his job would be easier than the heater core I changed out a couple weeks ago..... guess not.

-Chris

 

[NEpilot]

So I got the t-case off with pry bars, screwdrivers, and the BFH; sweet! Yanked the starter and got the two top bolts off the tranny.

My question of the day; can I get the tranny out without removing the y-pipe? I know there is no way in hell those flanges are going to come unbolted. If that y-pipe needs to come off I'm going to have to cut the bolts but that causes another problem; I will have to take the manifolds off to drill out the bolts. Anyone want to guess how many bolts snap trying to get the manifolds off?

Any better ideas? I tried searching but I must suck at key words.

-Chris

 

[Snoranger]

My question of the day; can I get the tranny out without removing the y-pipe? I know there is no way in hell those flanges are going to come unbolted. If that y-pipe needs to come off I'm going to have to cut the bolts but that causes another problem; I will have to take the manifolds off to drill out the bolts

Yes you can. Its a pain in the a$$, but its easier then drilling out broken manifold bolts.

Anyone want to guess how many bolts snap trying to get the manifolds off?


-Chris

If your lucky, only 1 or 2.

 

[ElleShooTiger]

My mechanic charged me $50 more than his original quote since he couldnt remove my y-pipe lol. Its harder, but theres still enough room to wiggle the trans in and out.

 

[NEpilot]

I'm going to try that route; I ended up snapping one bolt on the y-pipe flange trying to get it off. Figure I'll attempt to get the trans out and reserve the removing the y-pipe as a last resort. I found some other threads of the hell on earth it is to deal with the manifold studs.

One last question; should I decide to remove the y-pipe is is possible to drill out the broken stud on the cast iron manifold? I've never had to try.

Thanks!

 

[kevinsranger]

I'm going to try that route; I ended up snapping one bolt on the y-pipe flange trying to get it off. Figure I'll attempt to get the trans out and reserve the removing the y-pipe as a last resort. I found some other threads of the hell on earth it is to deal with the manifold studs.

One last question; should I decide to remove the y-pipe is is possible to drill out the broken stud on the cast iron manifold? I've never had to try.

Thanks!

loosen or take out the passenger side cab mounting bolts and jack up the side of the cab, that will give you clearance to get the trans over the y pipe. i have a 3" body lift and that made my cab high enough to get my trans over with about 1/2" or so clearance left over.

 

[mht95ranger]

Have you tried PB Blaster and lots of heat? I'm sure you have but thought I would throw it out there.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You can just drill the bolt out of the manifold flange and run a longer bolt and use nuts on the other side.

 

[NEpilot]

Got the trans out without taking the Y-pipe off; basically rotating it 90 degrees to clear the ears. My pilot bearing was non-existant and couldn't pull the remains of it out ended up using a small burr on the end of my dremal and cutting the race so it would come out. (nothing is easy ). The end of the input shaft is slightly scored but VERY blue so it sure was getting hot.

Flywheel looks mint; just going to hit it some fine sand paper on the DA to clean it up a bit.

Of course now I'm left with the decision on what to do about that damn Y-pipe. There is no way in hell I'm going to get the trans back on and keep everything aligned playing the same game I did getting it out.

The cab bolts look in decent shape; going to give that route a shot. Loosen up 4 of them and jack the cab a couple inches. I REALLY don't want to deal with that Y-pipe. I pounded the the body seem flat do that buys almost an inch all by itself.

Good times all around.

 

[martin]

You don't need to deal with the drilling out if you don't want to. You can use clamps to attach the y pipe to the manifolds.